Taqueando with Bill Esparza

Acquired Taste Media

Taqueando with Bill Esparza is your front-row seat to the vibrant world of Mexican and Latino food culture. Hosted by James Beard Award-winning writer Bill Esparza, we go way beyond tacos, diving deep into street food, regional cuisines, travel adventures, chef interviews, and the real stories behind the food.

From the mercados of Mexico to the kitchens of Los Angeles, Bill brings decades of expertise, insider access, and serious passion to each episode. Expect no-BS conversations, big personalities, and a whole lot of taco talk.

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30 episodes
weekly
Avg 1 hr 2 min
English

Episodes 30

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#73
Wednesday · 1 hr 13 min
Is Hype Making Taquerias Worse? Matt Kang on Asadero, Influencers & Carne Asada
Bill Esparza is joined by longtime food writer and Eater LA contributor Matt Kang to unpack the hype around Asadero, one of Los Angeles’ buzziest new taco stands. They debate whether it’s really Sonora-style, how LA diners and influencers can reshape a taqueria, why salsa and tortilla matter as much as the meat, and what separates a viral taco from a truly great one. Plus, Bill and Matt get into LA’s carne asada evolution, the pressure to please customers, and whether Asadero can turn its early momentum into a more focused, lasting concept. Produced by Robert Haleblian
#72
September 16 · 51 min
32 States of Mexico, One Dinner: Inside Evil Cooks’ Disciples of the Corn
This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Chef Alex Garcia of Evil Cooks to talk about the restaurant’s evolution from a backyard pop-up into one of Los Angeles’ most distinctive Mexican restaurants, and the return of Disciples of the Corn, an ambitious dinner celebrating the food of all 32 states of Mexico. Alex shares the story behind the event, the chaos of pulling it off, and this year’s lineup of chefs including Ray Garcia and Tomás Ortega, while opening up about his partnership with Elvia, his heavy-metal ethos and the life experiences that shaped Evil Cooks. Plus, in this week’s Antojitos, Bill recaps a Los Angeles food crawl with Nithya Raman through Evil Cooks, Distrito Catorce and Casa Gish Bac; makes the case for where to find truly great caldo, pozole and menudo in LA; visits the Guatemalan night market; and breaks down the ultimate Hollywood Bowl food experience. Somehow, there’s also room for Sheila E., the Commodores, Kenny G., smooth jazz slander and some very strong opinions about aging rock stars. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
#71
September 9 · 59 min
Is Goldfish Copying Holbox? Inside a Wild Restaurant Ripoff
What happens when a former employee leaves one of LA’s most acclaimed restaurants and opens a place that looks… remarkably familiar? Bill Esparza and Robert Haleblian dig into Goldfish Seafood in Orange County, the restaurant they argue borrows heavily from Michelin-starred Holbox, from the menu and plating to the logo and overall aesthetic, and debate where inspiration ends and straight-up copying begins. Plus, Bill recaps Taqueando After Dark, one of the best fine-dining fish tacos he’s ever had, and a star-studded This Is About Humanity fundraiser.
#70
September 2 · 1 hr 17 min
Inside The New York Times’ 41 Greatest Mexican Restaurants in America
Bill Esparza spent more than a year helping The New York Times build its list of the 41 greatest Mexican restaurants in America. This week, Rob flips the script and interviews Bill about how the list came together, why so many “best Mexican restaurant” lists get the country wrong, and what he found crisscrossing America in search of regional Mexican cooking, from al pastor in Charlotte and gorditas in Chicago to an unexpected Aguascalientes community in Oklahoma City. Plus, Bill breaks down why Mariscos Jalisco, Valle, Mercado La Paloma and other California standouts made the cut, what makes a restaurant “great” rather than simply famous, and why some of the most exciting Mexican food in America is happening far outside the cities people usually look. Produced (and co-hosted!) by Robert Haleblian.
#69
August 26 · 1 hr 7 min
What Tourists Get Wrong About Spanish Food, with PABÚ’s Coco Montes
On Episode 69 of Taqueando, Bill Esparza returns from Barcelona with a challenge to the way Americans talk about Spanish food: Michelin-starred temples may dazzle, but they’re only part of the story, and the country’s simplest dishes lose something essential when removed from their context. He moves from a spectacular tasting menu at Esperit Roca in Girona to bocadillos, tortillas, croquetas, conservas, rice dishes, vermouth and the no-nonsense neighborhood bars most food tourists overlook, asking whether great food can ever be separated from the place and people that give it meaning. Then Bill sits down with Coco Montes, chef of Michelin-starred PABÚ in Madrid, after watching him discover California’s extraordinary produce at the Santa Barbara farmers market. Montes brings French technique shaped by Alain Passard’s L’Arpège to a produce-first, microseasonal restaurant that changes its menu daily and is run alongside his mother, Rita González. It’s an episode about destination dining versus everyday eating, technical ambition versus simplicity, and what it really means to taste Spain. Produced by Robert Haleblian Buy your tickets to Taqueando After Dark
#65
August 19 · 1 hr 2 min
The Rules of Salsa with Chef Jonathan Zaragoza AKA Goatboy International
Chef Jonathan Zaragoza joins Bill Esparza to trace his journey from his family’s acclaimed Birrieria Zaragoza and Michelin-starred Chicago kitchens to Goatboy International, Salsa 101 and America’s Test Kitchen. They dig into the unwritten rules of Mexican salsa, salsa falsa, regional birria, fully loaded Ensenada fish tacos and Jonathan’s controversial belief that brioche buns don’t belong on burgers. Jonathan also shares why he spoke out against ICE, reflects on his family’s immigration story and previews his forthcoming cookbook and a possible return to Chicago restaurants, while Bill announces Taqueando After Dark at Level 8 in Downtown Los Angeles.Produced by Robert Haleblian
#67
August 12 · 1 hr 5 min
Nithya Raman Wants to Make LA a Restaurant City Again
Los Angeles mayoral candidate and City Councilmember Nithya Raman joins Bill Esparza at Las Margaritas in Boyle Heights to explain how she would confront the crisis facing LA restaurants, street vendors and small businesses. Raman lays out plans to accelerate restaurant permitting, simplify outdoor dining and liquor approvals, protect immigrant communities during ICE raids, reduce homelessness and illegal dumping, preserve legacy restaurants, revive Hollywood production, and ensure the 2028 Los Angeles Olympics benefit local operators. Plus, she addresses the Lineage fire, housing affordability and City Hall accountability before sharing her favorite Los Angeles restaurants, including Saffy’s, Ruen Pair and Restaurante Tierra Caliente. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
#66
August 5 · 1 hr 4 min
Gabriela Cámara Bets Big on Vegas With Cantina Contramar
Gabriela Cámara has brought the spirit of Mexico City’s legendary Contramar to the Las Vegas Strip. In this episode, Bill Esparza explores Cantina Contramar at Fontainebleau Las Vegas, the acclaimed chef and restaurateur’s first U.S. expansion of Contramar. Bill examines how the new restaurant translates Contramar’s seafood-driven cooking and lively cantina energy for Las Vegas, from its iconic tuna tostada and pescado a la talla to fresh tortillas and dishes created specifically for the Strip. Does Cantina Contramar preserve what made the Roma Norte original a global dining destination, or has Las Vegas turned it into something entirely its own? Plus, Bill announces Taqueando After Dark, a two-night taco pop-up happening August 27 and 28 at Level 8 inside the Moxy in Downtown Los Angeles. Expect taqueros from Baja California and Los Angeles, seven to eight taquerías, and one ticket to taste every taco. Taqueando is hosted by James Beard Award-winning food writer Bill Esparza and explores Mexican food, tacos, restaurants and the people shaping how we eat across Los Angeles, Mexico and beyond. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
#65
July 29 · 1 hr 14 min
“Creativity Is Over”: Daniel Ovadia on What Happened to Mexican Fine Dining
Before Mexico City became one of the world’s most celebrated dining destinations, Daniel Ovadia was helping create its modern culinary identity. He opened the groundbreaking restaurant Paxia at just 21 years old, serving ambitious Mexican tasting menus, artisanal mezcal and even an all-taco menu years before those ideas became fashionable. Daniel joins Bill Esparza to revisit the early days of Paxia and Pujol, the resistance he faced serving tacos and pozole in a fine-dining restaurant, and why an entire generation of Mexican chefs developed such distinct culinary voices. He also explains why he eventually walked away from the awards-driven fine-dining world, why he believes social media has made restaurants more repetitive, and how he found a new purpose building Peltre in Mexico City and the Michelin-recognized Punta Corcho in Puerto Morelos. Plus, Daniel shares his essential Mexico City markets and restaurants, the traditional techniques that shaped Paxia, and why Puerto Morelos remains one of the Mexican Caribbean’s best-kept culinary secrets. Bill also announces the return of his taco festival with Taqueando After Dark, coming to Level 8 in downtown Los Angeles on August 27 and 28. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
#64
July 22 · 49 min
What Most People Get Wrong About Mariscos: Bill Esparza’s Guide to the Best Ceviche in Los Angeles
Where can you find the best ceviche, aguachile and Mexican seafood in Los Angeles? Bill Esparza drops his definitive LA mariscos guide, explaining why great seafood requires more than an overflowing aluminum tray, a backyard location or a pile of lime and salsa. Bill breaks down the three pillars of Mexican mariscos: the barra fría, barra caliente and parrilla. He explains why Mexican ceviche is driven by pristine seafood and regional product, how it differs from Peru’s technique-focused tradition, and which warning signs reveal bad shrimp, careless knife work and past-its-prime callo de hacha. The guide covers Muelle Ocho, Mariscos El Faro, Mariscos Chiltepin, Cahuamanta Lao, Coni’Seafood and the essential shrimp taco at Mariscos Jalisco, along with modern destinations including Holbox, Ceviche Project, San Damián and Loreto. Plus, Bill calls out influencer misconceptions, reveals where to find LA’s best aguachiles and pescado zarandeado, and explains the proper way to build, sauce and edge a tostada. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
#63
July 15 · 54 min
Phil Rosenthal on Leaving Netflix, Bad Food Influencers, and the Ultimate Taco Crawl Faux Pas
Somebody Feed Phil host Phil Rosenthal joins Bill Esparza at Max & Helen’s, his Los Angeles diner created with Nancy Silverton, for a wide-ranging conversation about food, travel and the value of remaining curious. Phil reveals why Somebody Feed Phil is leaving Netflix for YouTube, calls out the negativity and rage bait driving food-influencer culture, and finally learns why filming pirated DVDs during their legendary Tepito taco crawl nearly got the entire crew kicked out. Bill also asks the legendary comedy writer to judge his official Dos Equis “legend line”: “When there’s no line at Max & Helen’s, people wait eight hours just out of respect.” Plus, Phil and Bill debate whether LA pizza has caught up with New York, explain why Los Angeles has America’s best Mexican food, revisit cow-udder and beef-lung tacos, and discuss the restaurants Phil believes are defining the city’s food scene, from Pizzana and Pizzeria Sei to Courage Bagels and Max & Helen’s. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
#62
July 8 · 1 hr 5 min
Is Valle de Guadalupe in Trouble? Roberto Alcocer Reflects on the State of Baja Wine Country
In this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down at Michelin-starred Valle in Oceanside with Chef Roberto Alcocer, the Ensenada-born chef behind Valle and the beloved Baja restaurant Malva. Roberto reflects on his early days cooking in France, Puebla, and Pujol, the once-intimate rise of Valle de Guadalupe, and how Baja’s seafood, wine, and farm-to-table culture helped shape modern Mexican fine dining. The conversation dives deep into the past, present, and future of Valle de Guadalupe, from the early days of Laja, Corazón de Tierra, Manzanilla, Malva, Vendimias, and true wine-country community to today’s challenges with overdevelopment, hotels, party tourism, rising prices, and the fight to protect the region’s identity. Roberto also discusses earning a Michelin star at Valle, why San Diego diners are still learning what Baja and contemporary Mexican cuisine can be, and why he believes Malva may soon return in a new form. Plus, Roberto shares where to stay, eat, and drink right now in Valle de Guadalupe, with recommendations for Mira Earth Studios, Adobe Guadalupe, Envero, Lunario, Damiana, Animalón, La Opah del Güero, Escama, and more. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
#61
July 1 · 1 hr 5 min
Don’t Mess With the Empanada: Alto’s Chefs Bring Río de la Plata Fire to LA
At Alto in Studio City, chefs Juana Castellanos Lagemann and Esteban Klenzi are bringing the food and fire traditions of Argentina, Uruguay and the Río de la Plata to Los Angeles in a way the city has never experienced before. Bill Esparza joins the duo to discuss their journey from some of the world’s most demanding fine-dining kitchens to Ventura Boulevard, why asado should be cooked over glowing coals instead of open flames, and how they are elevating their culture without stripping away its soul. They also explain why you should never order short rib medium rare, what makes a truly great empanada, how the parrillero’s relationship with fire differs from that of a typical grill cook, and where to eat in Buenos Aires and Montevideo. Plus, the chefs introduce Alto’s immersive Pampa Omakase, a communal feast inspired by the joyful, smoky ritual of a South American family asado. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
#60
June 24 · 1 hr 4 min
Marcela Valladolid Is Reclaiming the Mexican Pantry (Part 2)
In Part 2 of Bill Esparza’s intimate conversation with chef, author and television personality Marcela Valladolid, the two dig deeper into Matriarca, her growing Mexican pantry brand built around clean ingredients, traditional cooking and the belief that Mexican families deserve beautiful, high-quality products rooted in their own culture. Marcela breaks down Matriarca’s expanding lineup, from organic fideo, masa harina and salsa macha to heirloom beans, dried chiles and ingredients sourced directly from producers across Mexico. She also discusses making tortillas from scratch, the wellness industry’s failure to speak to Mexican women, the rising cost of dining in Valle de Guadalupe and why preserving language, recipes and culinary traditions still matters. Plus, Marcela and Bill debate tamal versus tamale, share their favorite Chula Vista and Tijuana food memories and reflect on nearly two decades of friendship. Taqueando is hosted by Bill Esparza and produced by Robert Haleblian.
#60
June 17 · 1 hr 5 min
Marcela Valladolid Is Done Asking for Permission (Part 1 of 2)
In Part 1 of a two-part conversation, chef, author and television personality Marcela Valladolid welcomes Bill Esparza into her Chula Vista home for an intimate look back at her journey from Tijuana’s culinary world to becoming one of the Food Network’s most recognizable Mexican chefs. Over a pot of fideo seco, Marcela opens up about fighting for authentic Mexican representation on television, the pressure of being reduced to Cinco de Mayo segments and the lack of support she experienced as a working mother. She also reflects on leaving food television, rebuilding her career through wildly successful online cooking classes and creating Matriarca, her new Mexican pantry brand centered on clean, thoughtfully sourced versions of the foods she grew up eating. This is only the beginning. Part 2 of Bill and Marcela’s conversation continues next week. Taqueando is hosted by Bill Esparza and produced by Robert Haleblian.
#58
June 10 · 1 hr 6 min
Don’t Bring That BS to Casa Vega: Christy Vega and Nayomie Mendoza on LA Mexican-American Food
This week on Taqueando with Bill Esparza, Bill sits down at one of Los Angeles’ most iconic Mexican American restaurants, Casa Vega, with owner Christy Vega and Nayomie Mendoza, owner of Cuernavaca’s Grill, for a conversation about legacy, survival, margaritas, wet burritos, taquitos, salsa, and what it really takes to preserve an LA institution. From Casa Vega’s 70-year history in Sherman Oaks to Cuernavaca’s rise as a community-driven Mexican American restaurant in the Fashion District, this episode digs into the food culture that shaped Los Angeles: chips and salsa, oven-style burritos, chile rellenos, crispy taquitos, big margaritas, celebrity regulars, family ownership, and the generational weight of keeping a restaurant alive. Bill, Christy, and Nayomie also talk about why Mexican American food deserves respect on its own terms, how LA’s classic restaurants survived COVID, fires, strikes, ICE raids, influencer backlash, and impossible operating conditions, and why places like Casa Vega and Cuernavaca’s Grill are not just restaurants. They are memory banks for the city. Plus: Casa Vega’s World Cup specials, Cuernavaca’s Grill joining the FIFA Fan Fest at the LA Coliseum, Casa Vega’s upcoming Baja patio takeover, and why the best way to experience these restaurants is simple: order the margarita, get the taquitos, add the salsa, and have a good time. Produced by Robert Haleblian
#57
June 3 · 1 hr 2 min
Are Bagels Just Bread? Canter’s Deli and LA’s Bagel Debate
This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza heads to Canter’s Deli to talk with Marc Canter about the deep history between Jewish delis, Boyle Heights, East LA, Fairfax, and Los Angeles’ Mexican American love affair with pastrami. From pastrami burritos and pastrami fries to the survival of old-school LA delis, the conversation traces how Canter’s helped shape one of the city’s most unexpected food connections: Jewish deli culture through a Chicano lens. Then Bill is joined by Lisa Wahl of Lisa Eats LA to unpack “Bagel Gate,” the viral Threads debate sparked by Bill’s claim that bagels are just bread. Together, they get into LA’s current bagel boom, New York food superiority complexes, Vietnamese and Mexican bread cultures, Courage Bagels, Canter’s old-school bagels, and why Los Angeles doesn’t need to become New York to have great food. Produced by Robert Haleblian
#56
May 27 · 59 min
Inside Xokol, Guadalajara’s Michelin-Starred Temple to Corn, with Xrysw Ruelas
On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Chef Xrysw Ruelas of Xokol, the Michelin-starred Guadalajara restaurant she runs with Chef Oscar Segundo. They discuss Xokol’s evolution from a humble molino and antojería into one of Mexico’s most important modern Mexican restaurants, rooted in heirloom corn, indigenous knowledge, the milpa, and the culinary traditions of Jalisco and Estado de México. Xrysw also shares her guide to eating in Guadalajara, including tacos, tortas ahogadas, mariscos, bars, Santa Tere, Nejayote, and why Guadalajara remains one of Mexico’s most exciting food cities. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
#55
May 20 · 1 hr 20 min
The Art of the Scam. With Katie Molinaro (@EatItKatie).
This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza takes on the messy new era of LA food influencers, anti-influencers, restaurant grifters, and the viral claim that “LA dining is a scam.” He breaks down the Christian Garcia/Hollywood Thai controversy, the rise of outrage-based restaurant content, and why struggling small restaurants are especially vulnerable when influencers promise exposure but may not deliver. Bill is joined by Katie Molinaro of Eat It Katie for a sharp conversation about influencer backlash, Comfy with Kerry, performative restaurant criticism, and what happens when creators turn dining into a joyless hunt for bad bites. They also dig into Kerry’s viral Casa Vega review, why Bill sees Casa Vega as more than just an old-school celebrity hangout, and how Mexican American institutions carry history, nostalgia, and community meaning that can get flattened by click-driven content. It’s a fiery, funny, deeply personal episode about LA restaurants, food media, cultural ignorance, affordability, and the difference between real criticism and content built for engagement. From Hollywood Thai to Casa Vega, from grifters to “LA dining is a scam,” Bill asks the bigger question: who actually benefits when restaurants become punching bags for the algorithm? Produced by Robert Haleblian
#54
May 13 · 1 hr 11 min
Noah Galuten & Eloy Alvarez on Sonora, Carne Asada, and the Gospel of the Grill
This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza heads back to Hermosillo, Sonora with chef, writer, and cookbook author Noah Galuten and Sonoran culinary investigator Eloy Alvarez Uribe for a deep dive into carne asada, grilling culture, and the food traditions of Northern Mexico. Noah discusses his new cookbook Grill Time, how a research trip to Sonora changed the way he thinks about carne asada, and why true Sonoran grilling is about much more than meat on fire. Eloy breaks down what makes Hermosillo’s carne asada culture so singular, from high-quality beef and flour tortillas to mesquite charcoal, chile colorado, refried beans, and the foodways shaped by life in the desert. Plus, the crew gets into Bahia de Kino seafood, bacanora, LA breakfast burritos, New York bagels, Mexican breakfast in Los Angeles, and why Sonora still doesn’t get the respect it deserves. - Presented by El Encanto Santa Barbara

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