Taqueando with Bill Esparza

Acquired Taste Media

Taqueando with Bill Esparza is your front-row seat to the vibrant world of Mexican and Latino food culture. Hosted by James Beard Award-winning writer Bill Esparza, we go way beyond tacos, diving deep into street food, regional cuisines, travel adventures, chef interviews, and the real stories behind the food.

From the mercados of Mexico to the kitchens of Los Angeles, Bill brings decades of expertise, insider access, and serious passion to each episode. Expect no-BS conversations, big personalities, and a whole lot of taco talk.

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20 episodes
Updated Wednesday

Episodes20

Newest first

Wednesday · 1 hr 14 min
“Creativity Is Over”: Daniel Ovadia on What Happened to Mexican Fine Dining
Before Mexico City became one of the world’s most celebrated dining destinations, Daniel Ovadia was helping create its modern culinary identity. He opened the groundbreaking restaurant Paxia at just 21 years old, serving ambitious Mexican tasting menus, artisanal mezcal and even an all-taco menu years before those ideas became fashionable. Daniel joins Bill Esparza to revisit the early days of Paxia and Pujol, the resistance he faced serving tacos and pozole in a fine-dining restaurant, and why an entire generation of Mexican chefs developed such distinct culinary voices. He also explains why he eventually walked away from the awards-driven fine-dining world, why he believes social media has made restaurants more repetitive, and how he found a new purpose building Peltre in Mexico City and the Michelin-recognized Punta Corcho in Puerto Morelos. Plus, Daniel shares his essential Mexico City markets and restaurants, the traditional techniques that shaped Paxia, and why Puerto Morelos remains one of the Mexican Caribbean’s best-kept culinary secrets. Bill also announces the return of his taco festival with Taqueando After Dark, coming to Level 8 in downtown Los Angeles on August 27 and 28. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
July 22 · 49 min
What Most People Get Wrong About Mariscos: Bill Esparza’s Guide to the Best Ceviche in Los Angeles
Where can you find the best ceviche, aguachile and Mexican seafood in Los Angeles? Bill Esparza drops his definitive LA mariscos guide, explaining why great seafood requires more than an overflowing aluminum tray, a backyard location or a pile of lime and salsa. Bill breaks down the three pillars of Mexican mariscos: the barra fría, barra caliente and parrilla. He explains why Mexican ceviche is driven by pristine seafood and regional product, how it differs from Peru’s technique-focused tradition, and which warning signs reveal bad shrimp, careless knife work and past-its-prime callo de hacha. The guide covers Muelle Ocho, Mariscos El Faro, Mariscos Chiltepin, Cahuamanta Lao, Coni’Seafood and the essential shrimp taco at Mariscos Jalisco, along with modern destinations including Holbox, Ceviche Project, San Damián and Loreto. Plus, Bill calls out influencer misconceptions, reveals where to find LA’s best aguachiles and pescado zarandeado, and explains the proper way to build, sauce and edge a tostada. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
July 15 · 54 min
Phil Rosenthal on Leaving Netflix, Bad Food Influencers, and the Ultimate Taco Crawl Faux Pas
Somebody Feed Phil host Phil Rosenthal joins Bill Esparza at Max & Helen’s, his Los Angeles diner created with Nancy Silverton, for a wide-ranging conversation about food, travel and the value of remaining curious. Phil reveals why Somebody Feed Phil is leaving Netflix for YouTube, calls out the negativity and rage bait driving food-influencer culture, and finally learns why filming pirated DVDs during their legendary Tepito taco crawl nearly got the entire crew kicked out. Bill also asks the legendary comedy writer to judge his official Dos Equis “legend line”: “When there’s no line at Max & Helen’s, people wait eight hours just out of respect.” Plus, Phil and Bill debate whether LA pizza has caught up with New York, explain why Los Angeles has America’s best Mexican food, revisit cow-udder and beef-lung tacos, and discuss the restaurants Phil believes are defining the city’s food scene, from Pizzana and Pizzeria Sei to Courage Bagels and Max & Helen’s. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
July 8 · 1 hr 5 min
Is Valle de Guadalupe in Trouble? Roberto Alcocer Reflects on the State of Baja Wine Country
In this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down at Michelin-starred Valle in Oceanside with Chef Roberto Alcocer, the Ensenada-born chef behind Valle and the beloved Baja restaurant Malva. Roberto reflects on his early days cooking in France, Puebla, and Pujol, the once-intimate rise of Valle de Guadalupe, and how Baja’s seafood, wine, and farm-to-table culture helped shape modern Mexican fine dining. The conversation dives deep into the past, present, and future of Valle de Guadalupe, from the early days of Laja, Corazón de Tierra, Manzanilla, Malva, Vendimias, and true wine-country community to today’s challenges with overdevelopment, hotels, party tourism, rising prices, and the fight to protect the region’s identity. Roberto also discusses earning a Michelin star at Valle, why San Diego diners are still learning what Baja and contemporary Mexican cuisine can be, and why he believes Malva may soon return in a new form. Plus, Roberto shares where to stay, eat, and drink right now in Valle de Guadalupe, with recommendations for Mira Earth Studios, Adobe Guadalupe, Envero, Lunario, Damiana, Animalón, La Opah del Güero, Escama, and more. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
July 1 · 1 hr 5 min
Don’t Mess With the Empanada: Alto’s Chefs Bring Río de la Plata Fire to LA
At Alto in Studio City, chefs Juana Castellanos Lagemann and Esteban Klenzi are bringing the food and fire traditions of Argentina, Uruguay and the Río de la Plata to Los Angeles in a way the city has never experienced before. Bill Esparza joins the duo to discuss their journey from some of the world’s most demanding fine-dining kitchens to Ventura Boulevard, why asado should be cooked over glowing coals instead of open flames, and how they are elevating their culture without stripping away its soul. They also explain why you should never order short rib medium rare, what makes a truly great empanada, how the parrillero’s relationship with fire differs from that of a typical grill cook, and where to eat in Buenos Aires and Montevideo. Plus, the chefs introduce Alto’s immersive Pampa Omakase, a communal feast inspired by the joyful, smoky ritual of a South American family asado. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
June 24 · 1 hr 4 min
Marcela Valladolid Is Reclaiming the Mexican Pantry (Part 2)
In Part 2 of Bill Esparza’s intimate conversation with chef, author and television personality Marcela Valladolid, the two dig deeper into Matriarca, her growing Mexican pantry brand built around clean ingredients, traditional cooking and the belief that Mexican families deserve beautiful, high-quality products rooted in their own culture. Marcela breaks down Matriarca’s expanding lineup, from organic fideo, masa harina and salsa macha to heirloom beans, dried chiles and ingredients sourced directly from producers across Mexico. She also discusses making tortillas from scratch, the wellness industry’s failure to speak to Mexican women, the rising cost of dining in Valle de Guadalupe and why preserving language, recipes and culinary traditions still matters. Plus, Marcela and Bill debate tamal versus tamale, share their favorite Chula Vista and Tijuana food memories and reflect on nearly two decades of friendship. Taqueando is hosted by Bill Esparza and produced by Robert Haleblian.
June 17 · 1 hr 5 min
Marcela Valladolid Is Done Asking for Permission (Part 1 of 2)
In Part 1 of a two-part conversation, chef, author and television personality Marcela Valladolid welcomes Bill Esparza into her Chula Vista home for an intimate look back at her journey from Tijuana’s culinary world to becoming one of the Food Network’s most recognizable Mexican chefs. Over a pot of fideo seco, Marcela opens up about fighting for authentic Mexican representation on television, the pressure of being reduced to Cinco de Mayo segments and the lack of support she experienced as a working mother. She also reflects on leaving food television, rebuilding her career through wildly successful online cooking classes and creating Matriarca, her new Mexican pantry brand centered on clean, thoughtfully sourced versions of the foods she grew up eating. This is only the beginning. Part 2 of Bill and Marcela’s conversation continues next week. Taqueando is hosted by Bill Esparza and produced by Robert Haleblian.
June 10 · 1 hr 6 min
Don’t Bring That BS to Casa Vega: Christy Vega and Nayomie Mendoza on LA Mexican-American Food
This week on Taqueando with Bill Esparza, Bill sits down at one of Los Angeles’ most iconic Mexican American restaurants, Casa Vega, with owner Christy Vega and Nayomie Mendoza, owner of Cuernavaca’s Grill, for a conversation about legacy, survival, margaritas, wet burritos, taquitos, salsa, and what it really takes to preserve an LA institution. From Casa Vega’s 70-year history in Sherman Oaks to Cuernavaca’s rise as a community-driven Mexican American restaurant in the Fashion District, this episode digs into the food culture that shaped Los Angeles: chips and salsa, oven-style burritos, chile rellenos, crispy taquitos, big margaritas, celebrity regulars, family ownership, and the generational weight of keeping a restaurant alive. Bill, Christy, and Nayomie also talk about why Mexican American food deserves respect on its own terms, how LA’s classic restaurants survived COVID, fires, strikes, ICE raids, influencer backlash, and impossible operating conditions, and why places like Casa Vega and Cuernavaca’s Grill are not just restaurants. They are memory banks for the city. Plus: Casa Vega’s World Cup specials, Cuernavaca’s Grill joining the FIFA Fan Fest at the LA Coliseum, Casa Vega’s upcoming Baja patio takeover, and why the best way to experience these restaurants is simple: order the margarita, get the taquitos, add the salsa, and have a good time. Produced by Robert Haleblian
June 3 · 1 hr 2 min
Are Bagels Just Bread? Canter’s Deli and LA’s Bagel Debate
This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza heads to Canter’s Deli to talk with Marc Canter about the deep history between Jewish delis, Boyle Heights, East LA, Fairfax, and Los Angeles’ Mexican American love affair with pastrami. From pastrami burritos and pastrami fries to the survival of old-school LA delis, the conversation traces how Canter’s helped shape one of the city’s most unexpected food connections: Jewish deli culture through a Chicano lens. Then Bill is joined by Lisa Wahl of Lisa Eats LA to unpack “Bagel Gate,” the viral Threads debate sparked by Bill’s claim that bagels are just bread. Together, they get into LA’s current bagel boom, New York food superiority complexes, Vietnamese and Mexican bread cultures, Courage Bagels, Canter’s old-school bagels, and why Los Angeles doesn’t need to become New York to have great food. Produced by Robert Haleblian
May 27 · 59 min
Inside Xokol, Guadalajara’s Michelin-Starred Temple to Corn, with Xrysw Ruelas
On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Chef Xrysw Ruelas of Xokol, the Michelin-starred Guadalajara restaurant she runs with Chef Oscar Segundo. They discuss Xokol’s evolution from a humble molino and antojería into one of Mexico’s most important modern Mexican restaurants, rooted in heirloom corn, indigenous knowledge, the milpa, and the culinary traditions of Jalisco and Estado de México. Xrysw also shares her guide to eating in Guadalajara, including tacos, tortas ahogadas, mariscos, bars, Santa Tere, Nejayote, and why Guadalajara remains one of Mexico’s most exciting food cities. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
May 20 · 1 hr 20 min
The Art of the Scam. With Katie Molinaro (@EatItKatie).
This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza takes on the messy new era of LA food influencers, anti-influencers, restaurant grifters, and the viral claim that “LA dining is a scam.” He breaks down the Christian Garcia/Hollywood Thai controversy, the rise of outrage-based restaurant content, and why struggling small restaurants are especially vulnerable when influencers promise exposure but may not deliver. Bill is joined by Katie Molinaro of Eat It Katie for a sharp conversation about influencer backlash, Comfy with Kerry, performative restaurant criticism, and what happens when creators turn dining into a joyless hunt for bad bites. They also dig into Kerry’s viral Casa Vega review, why Bill sees Casa Vega as more than just an old-school celebrity hangout, and how Mexican American institutions carry history, nostalgia, and community meaning that can get flattened by click-driven content. It’s a fiery, funny, deeply personal episode about LA restaurants, food media, cultural ignorance, affordability, and the difference between real criticism and content built for engagement. From Hollywood Thai to Casa Vega, from grifters to “LA dining is a scam,” Bill asks the bigger question: who actually benefits when restaurants become punching bags for the algorithm? Produced by Robert Haleblian
May 13 · 1 hr 11 min
Noah Galuten & Eloy Alvarez on Sonora, Carne Asada, and the Gospel of the Grill
This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza heads back to Hermosillo, Sonora with chef, writer, and cookbook author Noah Galuten and Sonoran culinary investigator Eloy Alvarez Uribe for a deep dive into carne asada, grilling culture, and the food traditions of Northern Mexico. Noah discusses his new cookbook Grill Time, how a research trip to Sonora changed the way he thinks about carne asada, and why true Sonoran grilling is about much more than meat on fire. Eloy breaks down what makes Hermosillo’s carne asada culture so singular, from high-quality beef and flour tortillas to mesquite charcoal, chile colorado, refried beans, and the foodways shaped by life in the desert. Plus, the crew gets into Bahia de Kino seafood, bacanora, LA breakfast burritos, New York bagels, Mexican breakfast in Los Angeles, and why Sonora still doesn’t get the respect it deserves. - Presented by El Encanto Santa Barbara
May 6 · 48 min
Le Chique 2.0: Inside Mexico’s Most Ambitious Tasting Menu with Chef Jonatan Gómez Luna
On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Jonatan Gómez Luna, the chef behind Le Chique, one of Mexico’s most ambitious and influential fine dining destinations. Recorded at Hotel Xcaret Arte in Playa del Carmen, this conversation explores the launch of Le Chique 2.0 — a bold, 27-course tasting menu that blends cutting-edge technique with deep Mexican tradition. Jonatan shares his journey from Mexico City to working in some of the world’s most celebrated kitchens, including El Celler de Can Roca and Noma, and how those experiences shaped his approach to modern Mexican cuisine. The discussion dives into the evolution of Mexico’s culinary identity, why the country is now a global destination for chefs, and how technique should always serve one thing above all else: flavor. They also unpack the philosophy behind Le Chique’s immersive dining experience, the balance between tradition and innovation, and why Mexico’s next generation of chefs may not need to leave the country to learn anymore. Plus, Jonatan shares his favorite local spots in Playa del Carmen — from street tacos to hidden ceviche stands you won’t find on any guide. If you care about the future of Mexican food, tasting menus, or where global fine dining is headed next, this is a must-listen. -- Presented by El Encanto Santa Barbara, your luxury hotel destination on the American Riviera.
April 29 · 1 hr 7 min
Andrew Zimmern (Part 2): Restaurants, Politics, and the Future of Food
Part 2 of Bill Esparza's interview with Andrew Zimmern. Zimmern goes deeper on the intersection of food, politics, and culture—and why what we eat is inseparable from how we treat people. From the role of restaurants in local economies to the human stories behind immigration, Zimmern shares a candid, unfiltered perspective on what’s happening right now in America and why the restaurant industry sits at the center of it all. They also explore Zimmern’s work in food advocacy, global hunger, and sustainability—including his push for “blue foods” and why eating more responsibly sourced seafood can have a real impact on the planet. It’s a wide-ranging, thought-provoking conversation about food as both a unifier and a battleground. Produced by Robert Haleblian. Presented by mva.wine.
April 22 · 1 hr 9 min
Andrew Zimmern (Part 1): Bourdain, Baja, and the Birth of Food Travel TV
Andrew Zimmern joins Bill Esparza on Taqueando for a wide-ranging conversation on food, culture, and the power of independent restaurants. From the early days of Bizarre Foods to groundbreaking trips through Baja California, Zimmern reflects on how places like Tijuana and Ensenada reshaped global perceptions of Mexican cuisine—and helped spark today’s gastrotourism boom. The two dive into why Mexican and Chinese cuisines stand apart as the world’s deepest culinary traditions, the overlooked brilliance of street food, and how food storytelling can shift entire narratives around a region. Zimmern also shares candid thoughts on travel, authenticity, and why the best meals are often found far from the obvious spots. As the conversation turns to today’s challenges, Zimmern makes a powerful case for supporting local economies—arguing that spending money at independent restaurants isn’t just enjoyable, it’s essential. Part 1 of 2. Produced by Robert Haleblian. Presented by mva.wine.
April 15 · 43 min
The Birria That Refused To Change: The Story of Birrieria Nochistlán
On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Rocío Moreno of Birrieria Nochistlán, one of Los Angeles’ most traditional and enduring Mexican restaurants, located in Boyle Heights. Together, they trace the restaurant’s roots back to Nochistlán, Zacatecas, where Rocío’s family has been preparing birria for generations—offering a rare, direct connection between a small Mexican town and the LA food scene. The episode also follows their recent trip to Nochistlán, where they explore regional specialties like gorditas, tacos al pastor, tamales, and other local dishes rarely found in the United States, highlighting the depth and diversity of Zacatecan cuisine. Back in Los Angeles, Rocío shares how her family built Birrieria Nochistlán from a backyard operation into a 26-year institution, why they’ve resisted expanding the menu, and what it means to preserve tradition in a constantly evolving food city. The conversation also touches on legacy and loss, as Rocío reflects on taking over the restaurant after her father’s passing and carrying forward not just a recipe, but a family’s life work. If you care about regional Mexican food, LA’s hidden gems, and the stories behind the city’s most meaningful restaurants, this is an episode you don’t want to miss. Produced by Robert Haleblian.
April 9 · 1 hr 10 min
A Tale of Two Modern Mexican Chefs, From Baja to San Francisco
On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza heads to Chileno Bay in Cabo San Lucas to sit down with Chef Yvan Mucharraz, the culinary force behind COMAL, YAYA, and TnT (Tacos and Tequila) at Chileno Bay Resort & Residences, Auberge Resorts Collection. Together, they unpack why Baja is quietly becoming one of the most important food regions in the world, from its unmatched seafood to its deep network of organic farms and local producers. Chef Yvan shares the philosophy behind each concept—COMAL, the resort’s signature open-air restaurant showcasing innovative regional Mexican flavors; YAYA, a Mediterranean-Latin concept centered around live-fire cooking; and TnT, a casual beachside taqueria built on simplicity and fun. He also breaks down his Baja Lab series, which brings some of the world’s best chefs to Cabo for a “reverse stage” that’s transforming his kitchen from within. Then, Bill is joined by Chef Val Cantu of Californios in San Francisco, the two-Michelin-star restaurant redefining Mexican fine dining in the United States. They dive into the evolution of tasting menu Mexican cuisine, the importance of masa, and why Mexican food is finally getting the recognition it deserves on the global stage. From Baja to San Francisco, this episode explores where modern Mexican cuisine is headed next—and the chefs pushing it forward. -- Presented by MVA.wine. Discover wines that rarely make it to the US, hand-selected and to an exclusive group of 600 members. First 20 Taqueando listeners to sign up fet $50 off their first selection by using code LAFOOD.
April 1 · 50 min
Why Kato Could Only Exist in Los Angeles. With Jon Yao.
On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Chef Jon Yao of Kato—the Michelin-starred, James Beard Award-winning restaurant redefining what Los Angeles cuisine can be. From his upbringing in the San Gabriel Valley to the philosophy behind Kato’s cooking, Jon shares how his food is less about invention and more about memory, identity, and place. The conversation dives deep into the cultural fabric of LA, exploring how immigrant communities shape the city’s dining scene and why Kato could only exist here. Jon reflects on growing up surrounded by Taiwanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Mexican food traditions—and how that environment informs a style of cooking rooted in storytelling, not trends. They also get into the realities of fine dining today: the pressures of Michelin and World’s 50 Best, the challenge of staying grounded amid global recognition, and why Jon prioritizes internal standards over external validation. At Kato, luxury isn’t about spectacle—it’s about care, intention, and serving food at its absolute best. Plus, Jon shares his go-to spots across the San Gabriel Valley and beyond, from beef noodle soup institutions to under-the-radar specialists, offering a masterclass in how to eat one of the most dynamic food regions in the country. -- Presented by mva.wine. Become a part of this exclusive wine club (600 members only!) at mva.wine/subscribe - first 20 people to use code LAFOOD get $50 off their first collection.
March 25 · 50 min
Manu Buffara: Noma Changed Her. Now She’s Changing Restaurants.
This week on Taqueando, Bill sits down with Chef Manu Buffara, one of Latin America’s most influential chefs and the force behind Manu in Curitiba, Brazil — consistently ranked among the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. From her early days in journalism to training in Italy and staging at Noma, Manu shares how her global experiences shaped a deeply personal approach to cooking rooted in local ingredients, seasonality, and storytelling. But this conversation goes far beyond the plate. Manu breaks down: What “local” really means in Brazil — and why it’s about people, history, and economics, not just ingredients How working at Noma changed her philosophy on simplicity and product-driven cooking Why she moved away from cooking for awards and started cooking for herself The evolution of fine dining — and why toxic kitchen culture has no place in the future How she built a restaurant where staff actually have a life, with shorter hours and a healthier culture Her foundation work feeding communities and empowering women in Curitiba Plus, Bill shares the story of dining at Manu during the pandemic — a deeply personal, unforgettable 11-course experience that captures what makes her restaurant so special. This is a conversation about food, empathy, leadership, and the future of restaurants — and why Curitiba might be one of the most exciting food cities you’re not talking about. Presented by mva.wine. First 20 people to subscribe using the code LAFOOD receive $50 off their first collection of this incredible wine.
March 18 · 1 hr 1 min
Q&A: Noma Scandal, Salsa Rules, Taco Culture & Finding Great Food Anywhere
In this Q&A episode of Taqueando, James Beard–winning journalist Bill Esparza and producer Rob Haleblian tackle listener questions about taco culture, Mexican food traditions, and the biggest controversy shaking the global dining world. The episode opens with a deep dive into the Noma scandal involving chef René Redzepi, the protests surrounding the restaurant’s Los Angeles pop-up, and what the controversy reveals about power, labor, and leadership in fine dining. Then the show shifts into listener questions covering everything from salsa pairings for tacos, the origins of LA’s taco truck culture (including King Taco), and how to recognize restaurants chasing Michelin stars. Bill also shares his expert tips for finding incredible food when traveling, how to approach unfamiliar cuisines, and the cultural rules behind tortillas, tacos, and regional Mexican dishes. Whether you're obsessed with tacos, curious about restaurant culture, or planning your next food trip, this episode is packed with insider knowledge from one of the world’s leading voices on Mexican cuisine. -- Presented by MVA.wine - a wine collective that's disrupting the OG wine club model and bringing you rare wines from small producers that rarely make it to the US. First 20 people to subscribe using code "LAFOOD" receive their first collection for $50 off.