Wednesday · 1 hr 3 min
TS
Sports
The Struggle Climbing Show
Ryan Devlin
Named one of Climbing Magazine’s favorite podcasts. 2M+ Downloads!
If you love rock climbing, self-improvement, and inspiring stories... chalk up and pull on.
- 209 episodes
- Updated Wednesday
Episodes209
- TS
July 22 · 1 hr 29 minWeekend Warrior: Busting Plateaus, Intentional Training, and Intuitive Eating
Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow Father, husband, computer programmer, and weekend warrior Jeff Ash explores: Climbing in the 80s with Matt Samet Quitting climbing for 32 years Ninja training crossover Being more intentional with training Focusing on technique The power of reflection and journaling How to avoid gym distractions Training indoors for just a few outdoor days Intuitive eating and forming a healthier relationship with food Drill work to improve movement The benefit of “coaching” our friends - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Low Hanging Gains 00:56 Meet Jeff Ashe 09:53 Jeffs Climbing Roots 15:18 Life Break From Climbing 18:01 Return After 32 Years 22:59 Old School Ethics 23:50 Rebuilding At 50 Plus 26:02 Arcteryx Academy Plug 27:15 Shoe Gear Talk 27:43 Scarpa Shoe Picks 29:10 Software Engineer Origins 30:12 Tech Then and Now 32:03 Houston Gym Routine 34:04 Intentional Technique Gains 39:16 Planning Sessions and Drills 43:30 Outdoor Goals and Route Style 50:08 Intuitive Eating Coaching 54:57 Root Causes and Habit Fixes 58:40 Journaling Patterns in Training 01:00:33 Exaggerate Hip Technique 01:02:45 Drills and Coaching Tools 01:04:29 Film Your Sessions 01:07:38 What to Look For 01:12:12 Board Video Comparisons 01:13:24 Train Hard Then Have Fun 01:14:44 Summer Endurance Goals 01:17:10 Community Feedback and App 01:22:02 Jet Lag and Australia Trip 01:25:19 Back Injury and Reset 01:27:01 Training Plan Ahead 01:28:45 Closing Motivation - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
July 15 · 1 hr 22 minEmil Abrahamsson: Sending his Hardest Route, Training Breakthroughs, and Being Told He'd Have to Quit Climbing
Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Elite climber, Emil Abrahamsson, is back on the show to discuss: His journey to sending 9a (5.14d) Managing a string of mystery injuries Being told he needed to quit climbing forever The route Adam Ondra recommended to him His off-the-wall training to build endurance Why pull-ups are pointless Finger training he did to get better at sport climbing YouTube projects (and struggles) His secret reality tv project Check out Emil's YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@EmilAbrahamsson Join the Fantasy Climbing League: https://fantasyclimbingleague.com/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Shoulder Scare Cold Open 00:23 Welcome Back Emil Returns 03:14 Swedish Place Names Banter 03:56 Dad Portrait No Eyebrows 05:35 First 9A Goal Talk 09:50 Injury Streak And Misdiagnosis 13:30 Why We Climb Soul Searching 17:36 Rehab Trench No Pullups 19:35 Straight Arm Board Lessons 29:14 Arco Project Picked With Ondra 31:37 First Sessions Reality Check 34:13 Off Route Endurance Training 39:23 Resting Skills Kneebars Mastery 41:58 Sport Skills Boost Bouldering 43:25 Training Timeline and Shoulder 44:17 Pullups Versus Climbing Skill 46:37 Cardio Base for Climbers 48:15 App Break Intentional Climber 50:17 Finger Training and Hangboard 52:58 Personal Strengths and Superpowers 54:47 Fear of Falling Mindset 57:57 Next Goals and Injury Risk 01:03:59 YouTube Workload and Big Island 01:10:08 Research Projects and Physical 100 01:12:39 Fantasy Climbing League Explained 01:17:43 Wrap Up and Host Training Update - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
July 2 · 1 hr 20 minBONUS | Movie Night: Apex with Andrew Bisharat and Chris Kalous
Grab an oice cold coike, some people jerky, and tether yourself to this Bonus Movie Night takedown (and love fest) of the Netflix adventure thriller, Apex. Shoutout to Andrew and Chris from The Runout for inviting me to join the fun! Give them some Patreon love if you can-- they make a great show over there.
- TS
June 24 · 1 hr 29 minDr. Tyler Nelson: How to Test Critical Force and What to Do With the Results
Test YOUR Critical Force, break through plateaus, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Dr. Tyler Nelson returns to dive deep on Critical Force, including: How to test critical force Why it matters My critical force test Why MVC is still king How critical force tells us what to train Improving power endurance on and off wall The big change I’m making to my training now What boulderers should focus on kill Why so many pros don’t test finger strength Dr. Tyler Nelson's Critical Force Field Test is on the Intentional Climber app! Test your CF and get instant training recommendations from Tyler based on the results. Here are Tyler's other episodes to check out: https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-on-finger-strength/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/expert-analysis-training-with-dr-tyler-nelson/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-power-with-dr-tyler-nelson-free-preview/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-pro-clinic-on-building-endurance-for-bouldering-and-sport-climbing/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-stronger-wrists-stronger-climbing/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-dr-tyler-nelson-on-how-to-maintain-and-gain-strength-beyond-age-35-free/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Critical Force Teaser 00:22 Show Intro and Focus 01:39 Critical Force Explained 05:20 Host Updates Australia 06:47 Meet Dr Tyler Nelson 08:05 Testing Protocol Breakdown 11:07 Interpreting Your Numbers 15:27 Energy Systems and Plateau 18:23 Testing Method Matters 23:58 Who Should Use This 25:43 Arc'teryx Academy Ad 26:59 What Results Mean Training 31:42 Route Goal Flower Power 33:28 Training Interventions Percentages 41:49 No Gear Testing Options 43:49 Treadwall for Endurance 45:28 How To Train From Metrics 47:38 Critical Force Takeaways 48:57 Power Endurance Priority 50:28 Training Tools Setup 52:09 Active Rest Explained 53:39 80 vs 60 Percent Blocks 56:11 Retesting and Progress 57:35 Elite Curve and Technique 01:01:47 Why Pros Skip Testing 01:04:00 More Quality Attempts 01:09:31 Repeater Protocol Details 01:11:41 In Season Projecting 01:14:52 Peaking for Fall Season 01:19:57 Outro and App Protocol 01:23:49 My Current Training Plan 01:27:25 Final Wrap Up - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
June 17 · 1 hr 15 minAdam Ondra: Stronger than Ever at 33, New Training Tools, Weird Grip Tricks, and Boulders vs Routes
Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Elite climber Adam Ondra explores: Flashing multiple V15 (8C) boulders How he’s stronger than ever at 33 The new training tools he’s using The truth about his "secret" crimp grips Going for V17 (and perhaps V18?) His weird low-intensity warmup for V15 flash attempts Training solo vs with a crew Is anyone today capable of 9c+ 5.16a - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 App Announcement 01:15 Welcome Adam Ondra 03:46 Life in Arco Italy 05:39 Smith Rock Stories 06:57 Retiring From Comps 08:49 Flash Mindset Explained 12:20 Training Tools and Crew 16:49 Board Climbing Breakdown 19:09 Sponsor Break Arc'teryx 20:52 Sponsor Break Sendurex 22:35 Strength Testing Habits 24:23 Grip Hacks and Thumb 32:09 Flash vs Project Potential 35:02 App Break Intentional 37:04 Mindset for Flash Attempts 38:47 Flash Warmup Routine 40:48 Using Beta Videos Wisely 43:37 Solo vs Crew Training 46:30 Regimen vs Flexibility 51:39 Sport Climbing Goals 53:49 Arco New Route Potential 55:41 Will 9C Get Repeated 59:20 What Makes 9C Plus 01:03:32 Staying Psyched Climbing 01:06:54 Bonus Episode Promo 01:09:45 Host Training Update 01:11:13 Intentional Climber App 01:14:29 Final Wrap Up - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
June 10 · 1 hr 29 minPro Clinic: Angus Kille and Hazel Findlay on Goal Setting and Finding Our "Why" as Climbers
Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 150+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available! https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow In this Pro Clinic, mindset coach Angus Kille (with guest appearance from Hazel Findlay) explore: Process goals vs outcome goals The power of journaling and reflection Using thoughtful goals to mitigate fear of failure Finding your big Why Is grade chasing a “bad” goal? Intrinsic vs extrinsic goals Setting S.M.A.R.T. goals Free access to the Mindset Makeover kit from Strong Mind: https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/course/mindset-makeover Explore all of Strong Mind's resources: https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/ Start your free 14-day Trial of the Intentional Climber app, and use code STRUGGLE to unlock mindset tools from Hazel Findlay and the Stronger Fingers program from coach Kris Hampton: https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast - The free version of this Pro Clinic is being brought to you at zero cost thanks to: Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Growth Mindset Hook 00:24 Pro Clinic Returns 00:47 Intentional Climber App 02:36 Why Goals Need Purpose 03:56 Meet Hazel and Angus 05:05 Mallorca Retreat Recap 06:27 Trip Goals and Intentions 08:10 Hazel on Goal Setting 10:44 Angus Evolves His Goals 12:30 Meltdown Project Tactics 18:23 Outcome vs Process Goals 23:53 Find Your North Star 27:09 Ryan Shares His Why 32:17 App Break Intentional Climber 34:48 Digging Deeper Than Progress 44:19 Finding Your Why Support 45:47 Strongmind Resources Explained 46:24 Mindset Frames Growth Mindset 49:24 Bad Why External Values 54:12 From North Star To Goals 55:44 Process Vs Outcome Goals 01:01:05 Intrinsic Vs Extrinsic Motivation 01:07:35 Staying Intrinsically Focused 01:11:35 SMART Goals Without Overload 01:16:35 Distill Your Why Mantra 01:18:19 Wrap Up Links Newsletter 01:21:22 Host Reflection North Star 01:26:24 Intentional Climber App Updates 01:28:09 Final Thanks And Support - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
June 3 · 1 hr 32 minNoah Wheeler: Sending Burden, Finger Training (and Injury), the Next Proj, and the Dab Heard Round the World
Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Elite climber Noah Wheeler explores: Specific training for Burden The dab ascent and what happened after Is Burden really V17? The change that unlocked the send Board climbing vs hang boarding Mindset tools to lock in for a send What Daniel Woods taught him Half crimp vs full crimp The next V17 on his list The happiness advantage - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Secret App Launch 02:23 Noah Wheeler Intro 06:33 Goals and Process 11:51 Evolving Through Struggle 18:18 Board Training Origins 21:15 Board Sessions and Volume 24:05 Intentional Climber Break 26:07 Rehab and Burden Prep 31:10 The Dab and Redemption 36:24 Dab Send Debate 37:25 Grading Burden Reality 42:10 V17 Or Downgrade 43:17 New Beta Breakdown 47:12 Micro Beta Anchors 50:20 Arc'teryx Harness Spot 52:06 Nutrition Calorie Wakeup 53:08 Carbs Protein Caffeine 57:11 Tactics Trip Mistakes 59:44 Footwork Pull Away 01:02:39 Grip Strength Weakness 01:05:23 Finger Strength Metrics 01:05:59 Projecting Mindset Phases 01:09:52 Pre Send Mental Crux 01:11:36 Embodiment Tools 01:15:50 Happiness Advantage 01:19:35 What’s Next Plans 01:20:53 Board Style Dreams 01:22:55 We Will Rock Vision 01:25:24 Wrap Up Bonus Plug 01:28:00 Host App Pitch 01:29:28 Climbing Reflections 01:31:59 Final Thanks Outro - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
June 1 · 1 hr 6 minThe May Plog: My Endurance Training Plan, Critical Force Assessment, and Realizing I'm a Bad Climber
Reflecting on my training, performance, and experimentation for the month, including: Recap of May goals (hits and misses) Finding flow and fun outdoors Breaking down my endurance training plan Results from my critical force test How I'm going to maintain strength and power A smack in the face regarding my technique Listener questions June goals Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! Download Intentional Climber on Google Play or the App Store and use code LAUNCHCREW to unlock $300 of free coaching plans, plus a secret discount (ends June 5th). Have an awesome month!
- TS
May 27 · 1 hr 6 minWeekend Warrior: From Midwest to V11, Managing Send Anxiety, and Her Breakthrough "5.12 Pact"
Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow Weekend Warrior, Hannah Provost, is crushing it. In this convo, we explore: Being naturally powerful but struggling with endurance Managing send anxiety and fear of failure A powerful tool to stay present on a climb The untapped potential of breath work Forcing seasonality with training Using hips as a fifth limb The "pact" that led to a quantum leap Covering historic ascents in the new ACJ Join the AAC by July 1st to get your copy of the American Climbing Journal (amongst other awesome perks): https://americanalpineclub.org/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Anxiety After Belief 00:24 Meet Hannah Provost 06:04 Climbing Origins Indiana 09:19 AAC Work Life Balance 10:40 Boulderer Wants Sport 13:19 Grades And Struggle 14:03 Doubt Cycles Tactics 20:28 Breathwork And Focus 24:08 Seasonal Training Blocks 26:20 Coach Nate Hip Power 29:46 Endurance Sessions 4x4 31:42 Hips As Fifth Limb 33:52 Hips Into Training 34:40 Treadwall Leg Drive 36:05 Beginner Mindset Reset 37:36 The 5.12 Pact 40:37 Exposure Over Sending 43:53 Next Goals Big Papa 46:42 What Is The ACJ 49:28 Stories From The Journal 54:45 AAC Membership Perks 57:31 Hostels And Wrap Up 59:07 Host Takeaways And Links 01:03:35 Training Update And Goodbye - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
May 20 · 1 hr 23 minTyler Thompson: How to Get More Out of Every Session, Building Capacity, and Tricking Yourself into Sending
Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Elite climber Tyler Thompson explores: The process of becoming a pro climber Struggling with training consistency Preparing for La Rambla (5.15a) His Spain sending spree How to make climb days worth more Struggling with performance anxiety An epic last-day-last-go send of Era Vella How to trick yourself into sending - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Arc’teryx: Check out the new Lithos SL harness featuring Warp Strength Technology and fully customizable sizing for an ultra-light sport climbing fit. Build yours at Arcteryx.com PhysiVantage: Try SendureX to improve your power endurance and recover faster between attempts. I love it! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Endurance Mindset Teaser 00:28 Meet Tyler Thompson 03:28 Vegas Base And Background 06:09 From Summer Camp To Youth Team 08:10 Going Full Time Climbing 11:31 What Struggle Means 16:20 Training Balance Outdoors Vs Gym 20:35 Spain Prep And La Rambla 25:39 Endurance Work And Self Assessment 33:11 Nutrition And Recovery Habits 37:23 Tactics Learning And Repetition 41:02 Finding Efficiency And Energy Leaks 42:49 Fresh Beta Experiments 43:19 More Tries More Learning 44:55 Evolving Beta Near Send 45:41 Inventing a New Sequence 49:40 Choose Moves You Love 50:27 Favorite Move Spotlight 51:52 Southern Smoke Send Story 53:59 Remembering Projects Past 54:50 Scarpa Shoe Shoutout 56:15 Performance Anxiety on Redpoints 57:22 Resting and Switching Gears 01:00:42 Era Vella Injury Miracle Send 01:06:10 Trying When Tired Works 01:08:59 Next Projects and Finn Cave 01:10:52 Trips and Dreamcatcher Goals 01:13:59 Finger Rehab Reality Check 01:15:06 Wrap Up and Bonus Episode 01:18:18 Host Training Update 01:22:08 Final Thoughts and Signoff - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
May 13 · 51 minThe Future of Indoor Climbing
Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this live podcast from the CWA, we have Dylan Barks, Jamey Sproull, and Brendan Scorpio joining to discuss the future of indoor climbing, including: Are old school climbers stronger than modern climbers? What has contributed most to the progression of hard climbing? What will the ‘board generation’ mean for outdoor climbs? The future of board technology and specificity Will there be highball gyms? The future of ultra-adjustable walls How high can grades go? What is the ideal board angle? What will be the evolution of climbing comps? Two things gyms are sleeping on right now Shout out to the CWA for hosting a great event! If you'd like to get involved with their important work or attend a future CWA conference: https://www.cwapro.org/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo! Asana: Whether you're looking to deck inside or out, Asana has got your landing. Incredible pad systems and crash pads, made by climbers who love what they do, and do it really friggin well. Use code STRUGGLE to score 15% off crash pads and 5% off your pad system! And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Modular Wall Teaser 00:26 CWA Live Podcast Intro 03:48 Panel Setup and Goals 04:19 Ryan Training Breakthrough 06:07 Panelist Origin Stories 10:15 Are Climbers Stronger Now 13:26 Tools Driving Progress 15:50 Future of Training Boards 19:42 Gyms in 10 to 50 Years 23:33 Futuristic Walls and Replicas 24:01 Modular Holds Vision 24:42 Adjustable Walls Future 25:45 AI Route Setting Fears 26:18 Making Climbing Accessible 28:14 Pro Grades Next Decade 29:27 Dylan On Grade Progression 31:08 Boards Getting Steeper 32:16 Pro Climbing League Hype 33:59 Skys The Limit 35:08 Host Outro And Cyborg Aid 37:58 Treadwalls For Endurance 40:56 Adult Classes And Leagues 49:58 Intentional Climber Updates 51:22 Final Send Off - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
May 6 · 1 hr 25 minEric Hörst: How to Build Limitless Endurance
Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow Climbing Coach Eric Hörst joins to discuss: How to fix energy leaks The mental side of endurance Traits of an efficient climber What not to do when you grab a bad hold How to manage the internal critic The physiology of endurance Programming an endurance phase To run or not to run What to change in order to hit peak Grab a copy of Eric‘s book, Maximum Climbing: https://www.physivantage.com/products/maximum-climbing - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Energy Leaks Overview 00:24 Spring Update and Guest Intro 01:31 Endurance Goals Madness Cave 03:22 Zooming Out Endurance Masterclass 04:33 Bouldering vs Routes Long Term 11:04 Rope Time and Volume Basics 18:16 Sponsor Break 21:06 Technique Fixes Quiet Feet 24:49 Pace and Internal Dialogue 33:48 Fear Falling and Efficiency 40:53 Tools Timeline and Training Plan 42:44 Aerobic vs Anaerobic Systems 46:25 Aerobic vs Anaerobic Engine 48:35 Three Pillars of Endurance 52:02 Six Month Base Building 55:51 Weekly Training Blueprint 58:42 Zone Two Climbing Intensity 01:04:30 Lactate Myths and Oxygen Debt 01:08:29 Three Day Schedule Options 01:11:52 Strength Balance and Injury Proofing 01:16:29 Peak Month Training Shift 01:18:46 Choosing the Goal Route 01:20:07 Host Wrap and Training Plan 01:22:53 Sponsors and Patreon Thanks 01:24:19 Final Sign Off - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
April 29 · 2 hr 7 minNeil Gresham: How Busy Climbers Break Through Plateaus (Without Training More)
Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Elite climber and coach Neil Gresham explores: The thing coaches don't talk about Turning life stress into climbing fuel How he trained Tim Emmett to send 14d / 9a The most impactful training modalities Why it’s good that most of us don’t train like pros His low inflammation nutritional breakthrough Technique pitfalls and fixes Why having kids can level up our climbing Chris Sharma‘s winning mindset Work with Neil: https://www.neilgresham.com/ Neil's nutrition guide: https://www.neilgresham.com/nutrition-guide Neil's technique masterclass: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r&si=Se3MPb8R8gFihL9z - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Psych High Time Low 00:28 Meet Coach Neil 04:39 Podcast Format Plan 06:19 Struggle Origins 10:47 Life Stress And Grief 15:34 Ebb Flow Training 23:14 Climber Or Coach 24:22 Masterclass Legacy 27:08 Sponsors And Patreon 29:29 Training Strength Battle 34:03 Building Strength Plans 38:52 Tim Vs Dusty Coaching 43:41 Training Load Templates 45:07 Stop Copying Elites 47:07 Quality Over Quantity 47:51 Recovery Days Matter 49:20 Collagen Sponsor Break 50:40 Nutrition Recovery Reboot 52:13 Low Inflammation Shift 55:03 Cut Booze Sugar Wheat 57:29 Carbs For Sleep Recovery 01:00:25 Nutrition Burnout Warning 01:05:14 Periodized Eating Cycle 01:09:49 Technique Versus Strength 01:13:02 Mindful Warmup Drills 01:18:48 Repeats Mirror Angle Hacks 01:23:36 Outdoor Project Tactics 01:25:03 Timing Peak And Conditions 01:27:04 Maintenance Training Diagnostics 01:28:08 Quality Over Volume Peak 01:28:57 Simulate Project Conditions 01:29:49 Avoid Project Burnout 01:33:32 Kids And Mindset Shift 01:34:09 Learn From Chill Crushers 01:35:39 Obsession Reset Lessons 01:37:11 Want It But Let Go 01:39:05 Tim's Meltdown Breakthrough 01:42:45 Modeling Calm At Crag 01:44:36 Belief Unlocks Grades 01:46:47 Conditions Can Lie 01:50:05 Coaching Confidence Hack 01:57:19 Stop Overthinking Redpoints 01:59:10 Work With Neil Gresham 02:01:31 Wrap Up And Bonus Plug - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
April 22 · 1 hr 6 minAlastair Humphreys: How to Feel More Alive This Weekend (No Travel Required)
Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Adventurer and Author, Alastair Humphreys, explores: Why humans crave adventure Easy ways to create and embrace discomfort An adventure anyone can do this weekend The magic ingredient is uncertainty Leaving a positive trace Environmental handprint vs footprint Our favorite books on nature His new book, Unwilded Shifting Baseline Syndrome The incredible benefit of 15 mins in nature Books Mentioned: Shop Alastair's books: https://alastairhumphreys.com/books-by-alastair-humphreys/ The Path by Chet Ramo: https://a.co/d/0iOU9Gsa Forest Unseen by David George Haskell: https://a.co/d/0ijwNBYp A Sand County Almanac by Aldo Leopold: https://a.co/d/0h8May0H Alastair playing violin badly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LviLfvkZeAM - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Honnold Foundation: Bringing solar energy to marginalized communities around the world. Learn more and support their incredible work with a monthly donation at HonnoldFoundation.org And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Big Adventure Question 00:32 Earth Day Introduction 03:03 Meet Alastair Humphreys 06:00 Struggle And Comfort 10:05 Defining Adventure 13:53 Micro Adventures Explained 16:25 Micro Adventure Mindset Shift 19:33 Violin Trip Uncertainty 22:58 Earth Day Partner Spotlight 26:13 Solo Versus Group Micro 29:00 Backyard Adventure Starter 31:56 Pay Attention Tell It 34:51 Bad Adventuring Ethics 36:38 Leave Positive Trace 40:11 Handprint Over Footprint 41:23 Personal Positive Actions 43:10 Type Two Fun Stories 47:46 Fifteen Minute Nature 51:11 Nature Books Rabbit Hole 54:02 Unwinding From Screens 57:55 Politicians Need Camping 01:01:09 Next Adventures Ahead 01:02:55 Earth Day Wrap Up - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
April 15 · 1 hr 20 minWeekend Warrior: Iconic FA's, Quitting Climbing, and Coming Back as Strong as Ever in his 50's
Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow In this episode of the Weekend Warrior series, amateur climber Chris Martin joins to discuss: Early days developing at The Red Bolting some of the most iconic routes FA of my proudest sport send, The Force Quitting climbing due to work and family The struggle of restarting the climbing journey Going from 5.11 to 5.13 in his 40's Training up power in his 50's Endurance training via Tyler Nelson - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Basement Interview Setup 03:33 Meet Chris Martin 04:34 First Climbing Days 06:08 First Red River Epic 09:07 Improvised Gear Era 11:40 Rapid Grade Progression 13:20 Porter Crew Origins 15:30 Motherlode Discovery 17:39 Bolting First Routes 19:32 Undertow Cleaning Battles 20:43 Omaha Beach Beginnings 22:11 Team Wilson and Thirteens 24:17 Flower Power Project 25:39 Sponsor Break 28:29 Ryan’s Route Overlap 31:11 Training and All Weather 34:59 Boca and Route Names 36:35 The Force and Dark Side 38:24 Mossy Wall Beta 38:44 The Force Grade Debate 42:42 Sharp Side Route Dev 44:01 Life Break And Triathlon 46:45 Gym Comeback In 2015 49:30 Rebuilding To Thirteens 50:53 Moonboard Power Sessions 55:05 Endurance For Season 58:44 Recovery And Retirement 01:02:33 Project Process Outdoors 01:09:56 Training Takeaways 01:14:17 Wrap Up And Next Goals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
April 8 · 45 minRoad to V8: Post-Send Adjusting my Training to Support New Goals
A casual catch-up with coach Kevin Cuckovich from Kilter (alliteration overload!!!!) to chat through my training plan now that I sent the rig, and how we'll adjust things this spring and summer to help support my sport climbing goals while maintaining all of my hard-earned boulder fitness. If you'd like to train with Kevin, you can reach him at training@kiltergrips.com I'm on spring break vacation with the fam and not supposed to be working, so I'm going to go bury my kids in the sand and eat my bodyweight in Oreos now. Hope you're having an awesome day!
- TS
April 1 · 1 hr 32 minRoad to V8: The Send
Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow Coach Nate Drolet joins me to break down the big send, including: Timeline of days on the proj Puppydog vs Bulldog Major difference makers Physical prep Mental prep Was this limit? What's next - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo! Asana Pads: The best crash pads and indoor pad systems in the game! Incredible designs and best-in-class customer care. If you plan to fall, fall on these. Use code STRUGGLE to score 5% off your pad system or 15% off crash pads! And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals Check out Max's photos: https://www.instagram.com/mjbarron/ - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 V8 Send Celebration 03:03 Meet Coach Nate 05:20 Why This Goal 07:41 Puppy Dog Sessions 12:14 Journaling and Tracking 15:51 Back Injury Pivot 18:54 Bouldering Witchcraft 22:16 Send Day Chaos 28:05 Ferris and Belief 32:46 Rehearse the Topout 37:08 Better Beta Breakthrough 40:55 Make Goals Public 45:37 Beginner Mindset Reframed 47:27 Project Close to Home 52:06 Boulderer Specific Training 59:02 Leaving the Rope Behind 01:01:56 Beta Sharing and Learning 01:07:55 Community Gratitude 01:19:31 What’s Next After V8 - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
March 25 · 1 hr 44 minBill Ramsey: 5.14 at 65, Peaking in His 40's, BIG Training Days, and Giving No F's
Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Elite Climber, weekend warrior, and Philosophy Professor, Bill Ramsey, explores: His early days with Alan Watts Moving to Vegas for year-round climbing Climbing 30 5.14s after age 40 Climbing three 5.14s (so far) in his 60s Customizing training for specific projects Developing the try hard part of the brain The benefit of doing a very big training day How to train on a Treadwall Most common mistakes he sees climbers make Having no F’s to give The Pain Box Here's Bill's article on the Pain Box: https://www.trainingbeta.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/pain-box1.pdf Here's Bill's article on how to set up a Treadwall: https://www.trainingbeta.com/bill-ramsey-treadwall-training/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Am I Too Old 00:47 Meet Bill Ramsey 03:54 Early Days With Watts 05:28 Eugene Training Era 07:27 Smith Rock Revolution 08:51 Red River Return 10:50 Move To Vegas 12:04 Decades Of 514 16:19 Two Very Different 14a 18:20 What Struggle Means 21:12 Sponsor Break Collagen 23:28 Back To Training Talk 26:49 Try Hard Over Minutiae 31:25 Training On Climbing Days 36:35 Big Days More Rest 37:55 Injury Risk Overtraining Myth 40:35 Treadwall Setup Linkups 43:50 Protocols for Red River 46:22 Training Rests Recovery 48:50 Dark Side Stories 50:23 Sponsor Break Ads 53:10 Nutrition Recovery Basics 57:55 Project Tactics Staging 01:02:40 Micro Beta Puzzle Mindset 01:06:04 Warm Up on Project 01:07:54 Rope Solo Projecting 01:08:14 Garage Crux Replicas 01:11:03 DIY Holds And Measurements 01:11:40 Warmup And Rewarmup Plan 01:14:31 Attempts And Rest Timing 01:15:57 Cold Hands Pain Tactics 01:18:10 Aging And Mental Freedom 01:21:24 Arrival Fallacy And Next Goals 01:24:39 Process Over Metrics 01:28:14 Pain Box Explained 01:35:04 Risk And Modern Comfort 01:36:20 Wrap Up And Bonus Tease 01:40:07 Host Training Update 01:42:37 YouTube And Farewell - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
- TS
March 18 · 1 hr 11 minOld School Gyms vs Mega Gyms, Which Is Better for Climbers?
Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow Andrew Bisharat and Chris Kalous (along with a surprise guest) join to explore: Climbing gym culture of the 90s Trends in corporate vs independent gyms Which gyms prepare climbers better for real rock A case against mega gyms A case for mega gyms Will soft gym grades result in mass upgrading of classic outdoor climbs? When a local gym closes... and is miraculously saved Is pickle ball competitive with climbing? How dirtbags can help save indie gyms - And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Old Gyms vs Mega Gyms 01:37 Rock Sport Closes 03:20 Andrew First Gym Memories 06:35 Chris Early Wall Origins 11:26 DIY Gym Spirit 11:51 Rock Sport and Rock Creation 15:09 Rock Creation Business Model 20:45 How Many Gyms Exist 23:32 Gym Growth and Trends 28:29 Gyms as Outdoor Gateway 32:26 Case for Mega Gyms 36:04 Gym Community Vibes 37:24 Modern Mega Gym Magic 39:12 Corporate Future Hypothetical 40:19 Grades Versus Real Rock 42:48 Setting Ergonomics Limits 44:34 WALL-E Mega Gym Satire 46:44 Surprise Guest Joins 48:21 Saving Rock Sport 50:29 Keeping the Old Soul 56:07 Sandbagging and Grade Plans 58:15 Pickleball and Business 01:01:47 Gym Ownership Reality Check 01:07:44 Support Your Local Gyms - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!