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The Climbing Majority

Kyle Broxterman

Most climbing media focuses on the edges of the sport—the most elite athletes and biggest achievements. But climbing has grown far beyond that. The Climbing Majority exists to give voice to everyone else: dirtbags, weekend warriors, route developers, living legends, and world-class climbers flying under the radar. This podcast explores what climbing actually means—the partnerships, the risks, the identity, and the pursuit of meaning beyond the grades.

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#132
Monday · 2 hr 8 min
132 | Shea McCrary: The Strangers, Mentors & Mountains That Shaped My Life
Shea McCrary is living proof that just about anyone can turn a dream of climbing faraway mountains into a life. Raised in the Midwest, she found climbing the way so many of us do, in a climbing gym. But unlike most, she became captivated by big objectives in a corner of the country with barely any multipitch to speak of. She taught herself from Freedom of the Hills, bought a double rack off Facebook Marketplace within her first couple of months, and learned the ropes from a local mentor, an old Army Ranger who told her she would climb the Nose one day. Before long she was making the 12-hour drive to Colorado and back to rope up with strangers on multipitch trad objectives. Then Sunny Stroeer asked her a simple question that changed everything: where do you see yourself in 10 to 15 years? Today, Shea has climbed high-altitude peaks, from Aconcagua to the Cordillera Blanca, and is now stepping into a new chapter as she prepares to purchase and take over AWExpeditions, an all-women mountaineering company running high-altitude expeditions, climbing courses, and backpacking trips around the world. Led by women, for women. In our conversation, we dive into the partnerships that have shaped her over the years: the good, the bad, and the transformative. A Mountain Project partner from hell, the onsight of Levitation 29, a one-day ascent of La Esfinge in Peru that ended in the dark, and a day on Serenity & Sons with Steph Abegg. We talk about what makes a great partner, why “do you want to come down now?” can be the most deflating question on the wall, and what it really means to be a mentor in today’s climbing culture. We finish by discussing why all-women expeditions are more than a stylistic choice; more often than you’d think…they’re a safety one. #femaleclimber #mountaineering #guides Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast: Resources Learn more about AWExpeditions Shea's IG
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#131
October 19 · 2 hr 30 min
131 | Kevin Dahlstrom: 15 Reminders For A Happier Life
Nearly a decade ago, Kevin Dahlstrom walked away from a seven-figure corporate career in search of a happier, more fulfilling life. The decision had been brewing for years, until one day, at the very top of his career, sitting at a table with some of the most powerful people on Wall Street, it all became clear. He was unhappy. He had climbed the wrong mountain. Two weeks later he quit, and soon after he moved his family from Dallas to Boulder, Colorado, to rebuild his life around the thing that had always made him feel most alive: climbing. Soon after at 50, he sent ten 5.13s in a calendar year. On his 55th birthday, Kevin posted this: “I’m the fittest, sharpest, and happiest I’ve ever been. If I’m an outlier, it’s not because I’m built different or discovered a secret formula. The truth is far less glamorous: It’s a million tiny choices, compounded over decades. Here are 55 of them.” When I read Kevin’s list, a lot of it hit me hard. At a time when I’ve been struggling in my own ways, it was a wake-up call, a reminder of things I had somehow forgotten in the pursuit of my goals. So I picked fifteen of the choices that felt most important and relevant, and we talk through each of them in this episode. The funny thing is, none of them are particularly new. We’ve heard most of these for decades. But that doesn’t change how easy it is to forget them, get lost in routine, and wonder why we aren’t feeling our best. As you listen, I encourage you to notice which of these reminders hits closest to home. Where have you traded your happiness for arbitrary goalposts? Where have you stopped taking care of yourself? What could you change TODAY that would make a difference? If you’re willing, share the reminders that mattered most to you in the comments. #selfimprovement Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast: Resources Kevin's List of 55 Life Lessons Kevin's Ideal End State Exercise Mr. Money Mustache
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#130
October 5 · 1 hr 19 min
130 | 15hr NIAD Debrief - Systems, Gear, & Two Short Fix Falls w/ Erik Griffith
In May 2026, Bryce and I climbed The Nose on El Capitan (5.9 C2, 3,000ft) big wall style over three days. On September 19th, we went back and stood on top again, this time in 15 hours, 48 minutes, and 22 seconds. This conversation is our trip report. To help me unpack our experience, I brought in my friend and Vertical Pursuits guide Erik Griffith. As someone who has climbed NIAD in ten and a half hours he brings a unique and experienced perspective. We talk about the gear we brought, the systems we trusted, and what went right and what went wrong. We also get into what it took to show up mentally. Bryce, a dad of two young boys; me, running this podcast, Brox Rocks, and a full-time marketing job .... Walking away from all of that to give the wall everything we had was its own challenge. The biggest thing we took away is that you don't have to race to get up The Nose quickly. It comes down to smooth, consistent, focused movement with as few errors as possible. You don't have to move fast to be fast on El Cap. **Apologies ahead of time. Erik's internet connection was super unstable and we lost some of his audio feed and a large chunk of his video feed. This edit is my best attempt to piece together a cohesive conversation. #yosemite #bigwall #rockclimbing #speedclimbing Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast: https://www.patreon.com/c/TheClimbingMajorityPodcast/membership Resources: Kyle's IG Bryce's IG Book w/ Vertical Pursuit Guides
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#129
September 21 · 1 hr 42 min
129 | Steven Dimmitt: The Nugget Podcast - What I've Learned After 300 Conversations With the World's Best Climbers
Steven Dimmitt is the host of The Nugget Climbing Podcast, labeled as "one of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space" by Outside Magazine, with over 300 episodes and conversations spanning some of the sport's most accomplished athletes, coaches, and thinkers. He's also a serious climber in his own right — double digit boulderer, onsighting 5.13a, training out of the Tension HQ in Colorado, and building a body of climbing experience that informs how he approaches every conversation on the show. Beyond the podcast, Steven now runs a coaching accelerator, translating years of pattern recognition from his interviews into practical guidance for climbers trying to get better. When I first started podcasting I looked around me in the space for inspiration. Who was at the top doing exactly what I wanted to be doing? Steven Dimmitt and his podcast The Nugget was one of them. Now having had five years and over 100 episodes of my own podcasting experience I wanted to speak creator to creator about the journey of self growth, development, and lessons learned from producing over 300 podcast episodes with some of the world's most elite climbers. I feel like Steven continues to be one of the more thoughtful voices in climbing media and this conversation is a look inside how he thinks — about the sport, about the work, and about what it actually means to build something meaningful in a noisy digital world. #bouldering #climbingtraining #climbingcreator Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast: https://www.patreon.com/c/TheClimbingMajorityPodcast/membership Resources: The Nugget Climbing Podcast https://thenuggetclimbing.com/ Explore The Nugget Training App & The Climb Accelerator https://thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching/#climb-accelerator Cover Image by William Woodward
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#128
September 7 · 2 hr 6 min
128 | Noah Kane: The Creator Behind the Climber - Adventure Filmmaking, Climbing, & Youtube
Noah Kane is a creator first and a climber second. He first picked up a camera when he was only 10 years old. From those early days he already found a proclivity for creating content while crafting horror scenes, comedy skits, and digital effect experiments. While in film school, his adventurous spirit rejected dense urban life and caused a profound shift in life trajectory. Soon after he found climbing, and simultaneously, a new place for all his creative efforts. In our conversation we talk about his development as a creator and a climber. How he's progressed to hard 5.12 trad climbing and grown one of the most well known climbing Youtube Channels in the world. We talk about the craft of adventure storytelling and what it actually looks like to live a life of creating content in the vertical world. I've been an admirer of Noah Kane both as a creator and a climber for years now. As a creator and climber myself his talent behind a camera, ability to craft a story, and development as a adventure-first climber has been an inspiration. I've had Noah Kane on my list for years but it has only been until recently where I felt the show was ready for him. I was beyond stoked to have a chance to sit down with him in person during my recent "Washington Triple" trip. #climbingcreator Thanks to our sponsors! MELIN - Premium Headwear Score 20% off Melin - 24hr Sale Ends 12am 09/08 - Click HERE Use code: BROXROCKS20 LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources: Noah's Youtube Noah's IG
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#127
August 24 · 2 hr 28 min
127 | Ryan Jenks: The Business Behind HowNOT2 - Breaking Gear, Climbing Retail, & Product Development
December 19th, 2022; the last time Ryan Jenks and I sat down for TCM episode 29. Now nearly four years and almost 100 episodes later, we sit down again; evolved humans with new projects, new lives, and the same sense of obsession over what we're building. I flew out to Ryan's hometown in Washington with all my studio equipment to record this conversation in person at the HowNOT2 headquarters. Since we last spoke, Ryan has built HowNOT2 into a real business — an online retail store with a physical storefront and roughly a dozen employees to make it all run. HowNOT2 has now become a full media, testing, and retail operation. Ryan sees his store as a direct response to the frustrations climbers experience when ordering gear from the big online retailers: shipping delays, poor customer service, wrong items, less than ideal communication. Every internal system he's building exists to solve one of those problems from the inside so the customer never has to deal with it. And he's done it without compromising the mission that started it: putting hard data behind climbing gear that has always relied on assumption and tradition. His long term vision? The retail store is here to fund the continued expansion of his Youtube channel and the science behind testing gear. In this conversation we go deep on the business behind HowNOT2 — how he thinks about scaling, hiring, and building the systems that make his retail store thrive. We talk about product development, from the drill-powered ascender he’s partnered with in China to his ambitions for making his own line of gear. We get into the philosophy that drives everything he does and talk honestly about the cost — the burnout, the personal money still going in, and the 1,000 decisions that got him here. #rockclimbing #climbing #climbinggear Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE: Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast HERE Resources: HowNOT2 Store (The Best Climbing Store Online)
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#126
August 10 · 2 hr 51 min
126 | Myles Moser & Harry Kinnard: 71 Days on Patagonia's Central Tower - First Ascent of Paradigm Shift [Part 2]
Picking right up where we left off in the previous episode with Myles and Harry. If you haven't listened to episode 125 be sure to go back before continuing here. The Central Tower of Torres del Paine in Patagonia has been on the radar of many elite climbers ever since Tyler Karow's viral YouTube vlog documenting his ascent of the South African Route during an unprecedented long weather window. This past winter, several teams from around the world came down to test themselves on the slightly overhanging 4,000ft thumb of granite. You've probably heard of Tommy Caldwell and Siebe Vanhee's remarkable 24-hour free ascent of the South African Route, or the first all-female ascent by Belen Prados, Caro North, Amelie Kühne, and Julia Cassou. While climbing icons were making headlines, Myles Moser and his team were just around the corner making history of their own. In this part of the conversation we dive deeper into what happened on the first expedition including a flash freeze the forced the entire team into a e-bivy. We explore how they managed resources on the wall, how a death block that Myles had found on the first expedition almost took out the entire team on trip two, and we go into the summit bid and descent. This team is not sponsored. Every person on this expedition contributed their own money, gear, and time to make it happen. Which is exactly why this route — and their remarkable collective effort — has gone largely unnoticed in the wider climbing community, overshadowed by the catchy headlines of sponsored athletes. In alignment with the purpose of this podcast, I'm here to tell their story. This is part 2 of 2 of my conversation with Myles Moser and Harry Kinnard. #patagonia #firstascent #bigwall Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Both Myles and Harry have written remarkable journals from their time on the wall — filled with personal anecdotes and intimate moments not fully shared in this podcast. If you'd like to read them, they're available to Patreon subscribers. Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources Myles' IG Harry's IG Trevor's IG Kellen McGrath's IG Cover Photo Credit: Trevor Anthes
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#125
July 27 · 1 hr 44 min
125 | Myles Moser & Harry Kinnard: 71 Days on Patagonia's Central Tower - First Ascent of Paradigm Shift [Part 1]
The Central Tower of Torres del Paine in Patagonia has been on the radar of many elite climbers ever since Tyler Karow's viral YouTube vlog documenting his ascent of the South African Route during an unprecedented long weather window. This past winter, several teams from around the world came down to test themselves on the slightly overhanging 4,000ft thumb of granite. You've probably heard of Tommy Caldwell and Siebe Vanhee's remarkable 24-hour free ascent of the South African Route, or the first all-female ascent by Belen Prados, Caro North, Amelie Kühne, and Julia Cassou. While climbing icons were making headlines, Myles Moser and his team were just around the corner making history of their own. Nearly 15 years ago, Myles and Amy Ness established Plate Tectonics, a grueling 3,300ft Grade VI 5.12 C1 on the East Face of the North Tower — a route they were both lucky to survive. The North Tower offers a remarkable view of the Central Tower, and it was from that vantage point that Myles first began imagining a new line up its unclimbed east face. That vision finally came true this past winter. Myles approaches new routes with a very specific style: ground up, capsule style. Once they leave the ground, they does everything possible to never come back until the route is finished — bringing everything they needs to live on the wall for up to a month, dedicating every waking second to pioneering a masterful, safe, repeatable, and free-climbable route up an unclimbed tower of granite. It's an approach that reflects Myles' blue-collar work ethic and a depth of passion for route development that's only found in the most elite climbers in the world. It took two expeditions over two years, $60K of personal funds, and a cumulative 71 days on the wall to establish his new route up the Central Tower. Together with Hugo Perez, Kellen McGrath, Trevor Anthes, and Harry Kinnard, Myles successfully completed the first ascent of Paradigm Shift — Grade VII 5.12+ A2, 4,000ft. This team is not sponsored. Every person on this expedition contributed their own money, gear, and time to make it happen. Which is exactly why this route — and their remarkable collective effort — has gone largely unnoticed in the wider climbing community, overshadowed by the catchy headlines of sponsored athletes. In alignment with the purpose of this podcast, I'm here to tell their story. If you've been following the show for a while, you'll remember episodes 67 and 68 where I last spoke with Myles. If you haven't heard those, I highly encourage you to go back and check them out — they add real context to who Myles is and the depth of experience he brings to Patagonia's big walls. This is part 1 of 2 of my conversation with Myles Moser and Harry Kinnard. #patagonia #firstascent #bigwall Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Both Myles and Harry have written remarkable journals from their time on the wall — filled with personal anecdotes and intimate moments not fully shared in this podcast. If you'd like to read them, they're available to Patreon subscribers. Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources Myles' IG Harry's IG Trevor's IG Kellen McGrath's IG Cover Photo Credit: Trevor Anthes
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#124
July 13 · 2 hr 27 min
124 | Patrick Paul: Stories From A Southern Sierra Pioneer - First Ascents, Close Calls, & Life Transformation
The Southern Sierra is the quieter, less-traveled tail end of California's Sierra Nevada range — running from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks down through the Kern River drainage to where the range finally peters out into the Tehachapi Mountains. It's a land of dense pine forests, hidden granite formations, deep river canyons, and small mountain towns like Kernville, Springville, and Porterville tucked into its foothills. For climbers, this region is a genuine treasure trove that remains largely under the radar. The Needles are the crown jewel — a cluster of striking granite spires rising out of pine forest above the Kern River, home to some of the finest crack climbing in California. Dome Rock offers accessible multi-pitch classics. Deeper into the range you find places like The Fin at Castle Rock, Homer's Nose, Hermit Spire, and countless other obscure formations that have been quietly developed over decades by small groups of locals. The rock is high-quality granite, often steep, often demanding, and almost always uncrowded. Culturally, the Southern Sierra has always attracted a specific kind of climber — someone drawn to first ascents, comfortable with long approaches, willing to work for solitude, and less interested in the spray culture of more famous destinations. The area saw a renaissance in the late 1970s and early 1980s when climbers from Los Angeles started making pilgrimages up to Kernville and Porterville, discovering that the Needles and surrounding formations offered climbing that rivaled anything in Yosemite — just without the crowds. Patrick Paul found himself right in the middle of this renaissance and became a pioneer in his own right, establishing 54 first ascents across the Southern Sierra over his 50 year career. In this conversation we go back to Patrick's tumultuous upbringing and how a single trip to Joshua Tree became the catalyst for an entire life pivot — one he's convinced saved his life. We dig into stories from his years on the rock, including run-ins with icons like Randy Leavitt, Lynn Hill, and Fred Beckey, and several close calls: an earthquake mid-approach, expanding flakes on Homer's Nose, and a moment when his main partner Richard Leversee saved Patrick from certain death when Patrick leaned back away from an anchor without being tied in. #livinglegend #firstascents Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources Some of Patrick's stories can be found in this book: Patrick's Facebook
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#123
June 29 · 2 hr 17 min
123 | Mark Hudon: Yosemite Legend - 54 Years of Climbing, Ego, & Partnerships
Mark Hudon is a Yosemite legend whose work in the late 1970s and early 1980s helped push big wall climbing into a new free climbing era. Often partnered with the equally groundbreaking Max Jones, Mark became known for his bold, ground-up style—blending meticulous preparation with a willingness to test the limits of free climbing on terrain that had previously only been aided. Few climbers have shaped as many eras of the sport as Mark Hudon. Mark was born three years before El Capitan was first climbed. That kind of historical proximity gives him a perspective on climbing's evolution that almost nobody else alive can offer—and that's exactly where this conversation starts. We dig into what the lives of Royal Robbins and Warren Harding actually represented, why their conflict mirrors the tensions we still see in climbing today, and why Mark thinks ego is at the root of most of it. We talk about how ego in climbing has evolved—for the sport and for Mark personally—why partnerships have been the single most important element of his climbing life, and what it actually looks like to build a life around climbing without letting climbing become your entire identity. Mark built a coffee roasting company from scratch, lived in a van for ten years, spent winters in Baja, and at 70 years old remains fit, healthy, and largely injury free. He values experiences over trophies and partnerships over pride. We also explore his remarkable relationship with Jordan Cannon—how they met, what they gave each other, and why Mark considers Jordan as close as family. And we close out talking about Mark's recent pivot to public speaking and his desire to help people acquire more agency over their own lives—a philosophy that, it turns out, he's been living since he was a teenager in New Hampshire learning to climb on granite. #livinglegend Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources Mark's Website Mark's Instagram Mark's Youtube This article by Mark Hudon "Long, Hard and Free" inspired a whole generation of climbers, including Todd Skinner and Paul Piana, and laid the groundwork for the game that is Yosemite big wall free climbing. Long Hard & Free
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#122
June 15 · 1 hr 11 min
122 | Bryce Ungersma: A Debrief of The Nose on El Cap - Systems, Gear Beta, & What's Next
On May 12th, 2026, Bryce and I took our first steps onto the most iconic big wall route in the world—The Nose on El Capitan. Three days later we woke up on the summit of 3,000 feet of vertical granite after a clean, smooth, and successful ascent. This conversation is our debrief. Bryce has done the Nose twice now. I had never set foot on El Cap. The experience gap between us was real, and we talk openly about how that shaped the dynamic—how Bryce became my cheat code for this objective and how I showed up as prepared as I could be without ever having practiced the systems in a real setting. We cover where we each were in our lives leading into the climb, what preparation actually looked like with two weeks of limited communication. We get into the practical stuff; how much water and food we brought, portaledge decisions, hauling systems, and how we chose to break up the wall across three days. We walk through navigating other parties on route, the King Swing, Changing Corners, and the moments that tested us most. And we close out talking about how we are going to approach our NIAD (Nose in a Day) attempt in the fall of 2026. #aidclimbing #bigwall #yosemite Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast
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#121
June 1 · 2 hr 28 min
121 | Brent Barghahn: Avant Climbing Innovations - Gear Design, Onsight Climbing & Magic Line
Brent Barghahn is a tinkerer first and a climber second and understanding that order tells you a lot about him. Since he was a child Brent saw the world through the lens of design, building gadgets to solve the problems he found along the way. He even had a charge account at his local hardware store that was funded by his parents. That same instinct to build, solve, and design has followed him through his life. He spent five years at Black Diamond as a product designer where he helped shape the equipment that we use every time we climb, with one of his highlight contributions being the trigger keeper we now see on large C4 cams. While Brent lived in his van in the Black Diamond employee parking lot, he spent all his free time climbing and managed to tick his way into the elite tier of climbing athletes. With accomplishments like rope solo NIAD, an onsight of Ecstasy, and ground up Golden Gate. This conversation goes deep on what it actually means to approach climbing as a maker rather than just a performer. Brent talks about onsight threshold climbing, his term for the style of climbing he values most and why he thinks redpointing has become a party trick that the media celebrates at the expense of something he feels to be more meaningful. We talk about the Flip-Stop—the product that started Avant—which was born from a frustrating session on Cobra Crack. Brent explains why he built Avant as a hobby business on purpose, why he describes his twelve-product lineup as solving problems that big brands ignore and the four words he uses to describe why he climbs: puzzles, community, solitude, and toil. Brent is one of those rare people who exists at the edge of the elite climbing community without being a professional climber by his own definition and he's made peace with that in a way that feels on purpose rather than resigned. Topics include: onsight threshold climbing, redpointing vs onsighting, Flip-Stop carabiner stabilizer, Avant Climbing Innovations, rope solo NIAD, onsight of Ecstasy, Magic Line 5.14c, trad climbing gear design, climbing ethics and style, ground up vs rap in debate, route development, climbing community building, bouldering for trad performance, and what it means to climb at the elite level without going pro. #eliteclimber #ethics #tradclimbing Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources Avant Climbing Innovations Avant Climbing Innovations Youtube Avant Climbing Innovations IG Brent's Personal Climbing Blog
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#120
May 18 · 1 hr 50 min
120 | Zach Dreher: An Epic Patagonia Adventure - Big Walls, Wingsuits, & Russians
Zach Dreher started highlining in Flagstaff until climbing came into his life, at which point he made a complete pivot with eyes on big walls. After only a year and a half into his climbing career he began cutting his teeth in Yosemite and created a huge foundation of experience with multiple big wall ascents and NIAD runs; all with the vision of even bigger international objectives. Zach made his living as a masonry worker, kept life simple, lived in a van, and saved until he could buy his first investment property. Now he's building wealth and has created a self-supported life around climbing. This episode follows an unpublished trip report that Zach's climbing partner Will Fazio route about their recent successful ascent of Royal Flush [1,200m 5.12 A0] on Cerro Chaltén (Fitz Roy) one of Patagonia’s most elusive big wall lines. With initial goals to move as quickly as possible they arrived with minimal supplies, but quickly started to feel the weight of the commitment above them. At a pivotal moment, when Will and Zach were deciding whether or not to continue a Russian team of four climbing below them offered to team up for a 6 - person big wall push to the summit and they excitedly agreed. Zach and Will had just joined Boris, Vladimir, Ilya, and Konstantin on their push to become the first people to wingsuit and base jump off of Cerro Chaltén. Topics include: team dynamics on big objectives, managing doubt and morale under pressure, partnership philosophy in the mountains, and Patagonia big wall logistics. #bigwall #alpineclimbing #mountaineering #rockclimbing #patagonia Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources Zach Will The Russian Team Konstantin Boris Vladimir Route Information
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#119
May 4 · 1 hr 54 min
119 | Steph Abegg: The Beta Queen - Passions, Partnerships, & Publications
If you don't already know who Steph Abegg is, I can almost certainly say that you've used her work. Her detailed route topos, trip reports, and beta overlays appear all over the internet covering climbs from the North Cascades to Red Rocks. For nearly 20 years, she's been quietly building one of the most comprehensive free climbing resources on the internet—not for profit, not for sponsorship, but because she genuinely loves documenting routes and helping people have better days in the mountains. She's what the climbing community needs more of: someone creating value without asking for anything in return. This is Steph's second time on the show. Three years ago, she had just landed a data science job and bought a house in Estes Park. Now she's unemployed, living in a Transit van, and writing a book of her favorite climbs across North America. What happened in between is a story about rejection, redirection, and choosing passion over security—even when it doesn't make financial sense. #femaleclimber #rockclimbing Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources Steph's Website (Donate HERE) Steph's IG
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#118
April 20 · 2 hr 41 min
118 | Phillp Setter: Shenanigans, Mt. Yamnuska, & How To Live A Full Life
Philip Setter is an insurance broker and software entrepreneur from Canada who's been climbing for over a decade. He is known to quietly solo some of the gnarliest ice the Canadian Rockies has to offer and has an affinity for chossy, runout, dangerous, and psychologically demanding routes. Phil has a tangible passion and enthusiasm to extract the most out of life. Whether its in business, his partnerships, or in climbing he gives everything 100%. Part of life's meaning for Phil is triumphing through adversity and the shenanigans he seems to always find himself in provide the perfect place for him to create the memories and stories that will last a lifetime. But what's the difference between shenanigans worth pushing through and those that become reckless? What does it mean to build a life that holds space for risk while being responsible to the people who depend on you? Expect to learn about Phil's framework for ice climbing risk assessment, how he tore his A2 pulley and how peptides accelerated his recovery, what it's like selling life insurance to climbers who might not want to admit they're doing something dangerous, why many accomplished climbers have something else in their life besides climbing, how he works on setting boundaries, how we define success & failure, the role vices play in our lives, and much more… #iceclimbing #tradclimbing #mountaineering Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources Purchase Life Insurance For Climbers (Canadians Only): Phil's IG Phil's Youtube
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#117
April 6 · 2 hr 5 min
117 | Drew Brodhead: SLCA Coordinator - Anchor Maintenance & Climbing Advocacy
Drew Brodhead is the Staff Advocacy Coordinator and Anchor Maintenance Coordinator for the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance, one of the most respected local climbing organizations in the country. With 18+ years of climbing experience and SPRAT Level 3 certification, Drew leads a professional anchor maintenance program that rebolts routes across the Wasatch Range April through November. This episode explores what it actually means to professionally maintain climbing infrastructure, the ethics of rebolting existing routes, and why Drew believes climbing is a privilege—not a right. We discuss Drew's philosophy that if it's scary, leave it the same; if it's dangerous, change something—a quote from Boone Speed that guides how SLCA approaches rebolting decisions. Drew explains the difference between maintaining safety and preserving the climbing experience, why once bolts are placed they become community property, and how first ascensionists who refuse to allow rebolting create liability when climbers get hurt on deteriorating anchors. We dig into the tension between access and advocacy, including the Logan Canyon rebolting controversy where an individual's well-intentioned work triggered land manager scrutiny because of poor communication with the climbing community. An example of how one mistake can ripple across the entire country. Topics include: SLCA anchor maintenance program structure, SPRAT Level 3 certification, rebolting ethics, Half Dome Northwest Face, Logan Canyon access issues, land manager relationships, Protect America's Rock Climbing Act, nonprofit economics, Bears Ears advocacy, and community stewardship. #Access&Advocacy Cover Photo: @emilytrombly --- Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources Learn More About The SLCA Donate To The SLCA HERE Drew's IG SLCA's IG
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#116
March 23 · 1 hr 54 min
116 | Paul Rogers: Active Duty Green Beret - Mountain Warfare Training & A 2200ft Fall
Paul Rogers is an active duty US Army Special Forces (Green Beret) officer who previously served as the commander of the Special Operations Mountain Warfare Training Center (SOMWTC), the specialized schoolhouse responsible for training all military mountaineers for US Special Operations Command (USSOCOM). This episode explores what it actually takes to train elite operators for mountain warfare, why these skills matter in modern combat operations, and the staggering complexity of preparing soldiers to fight enemies in mountainous environments where the terrain itself is trying to kill you. Paul walks through the history of Special Forces mountain warfare dating back to World War II, why unconventional warfare and violent conflict occurs disproportionately in mountains, and how US Special Operations Forces are trained to operate there. We discuss the different levels of mountain operator certification (basic, summer, winter), what the 7-8 week intensive courses actually entail, the 2-to-1 instructor-to-student ratios required for safety, and why many instructors are pursuing IFMGA guide certifications to become legitimate mountain guides. Finally, we dive into Paul's own 2200-foot fall on Wilson Peak's North Face in Telluride, Colorado, where he hit a buried rock while ski mountaineering, tomahawked 400-500 feet, nearly came to a stop, and then was swept over multiple cliff bands by an avalanche of his own slough. He ended up partially buried 2200 feet below with a collapsed lung, broken ribs, broken hands and wrist, a compound fracture with bone sticking out of his knee, and severe internal bleeding from his intestines separating from the mesh holding them in place. His ski partner and fellow Mountain Warfare instructor Bobby executed a technical rescue—solo downclimbing through hazardous terrain to reach Paul, stabilize him, and coordinate helicopter extraction with San Miguel County Search and Rescue. Bobby would later receive the Soldier’s Medal (nation’s highest award for heroism during non-combat operations) for his actions that day. Topics include: Special Operations Mountain Warfare Training Center, Green Beret mountain training, unconventional warfare in mountains, Afghanistan Takur Ghar 2002, foreign internal defense, instructor qualifications, IFMGA guide certification, Dunning-Kruger effect in training, ski mountaineering accidents, Wilson Peak North Face, 2200ft fall survival, avalanche burial, and technical mountain rescue **The views and opinions on this podcast are those of the speakers and do not necessarily represent the views, stances, or policies of any of the entities they may represent.** #military #alpinism #mountaineering Watch the full episode on Youtube --- Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast
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#115
March 9 · 2 hr 57 min
115 | Jared Wicks: LVMPD SAR Officer - How Rescues Work, Red Rock Accidents & 30 Years of Climbing
Jared Wicks has been a rock climber for over 30 years, he is a former SWAT officer, and one of seven full-time commissioned officers on the Las Vegas Metropolitan Police Department Search and Rescue team. Born and raised in Montana, Jared served in the military and spent his off-duty hours climbing at Red Rock—falling so in love with the area that he moved to Las Vegas in 2006 specifically to combine his passion for climbing with a career in law enforcement. After nearly two decades working patrol, firearms instruction, and SWAT, Jared finally landed his dream position on the SAR, where he now responds to rescues across 8,000 square miles of Clark County—from Red Rock Canyon to Mount Charleston to Lake Mead. This episode explores what it takes to be on one of the most unique full-time SAR teams in the country, how helicopter operations actually work, and what happens when 911 gets called from a climbing route. Jared walks through the structure of LVMPD SAR's four specialty teams (lead climb, mountain rescue, dive recovery, and tactical medical support), the qualifications required to even test for the position, and how 40+ volunteers—including world-class 5.14 climbers and SPRAT Level 3 rope access technicians—support the full-time officers. We discuss the death of his mentor Dave Van Buskirk, who fell during a hoist rescue 13 years ago after saving a stranded hiker, and how that tragedy changed rescue protocols across the entire SAR community. Jared breaks down a recent rescue from this past weekend on Dream Safari, what percentage of climbing rescues are preventable versus pure chaos, and how witnessing accidents over the years has fundamentally changed his own approach to risk and gear placement. If there's one thing Jared wants you to take away from this conversation, it's that LVMPD SAR is funded by tax dollars—rescues are free. Never hesitate to call 911 if you're in trouble. Jared and his team are ready to come get you. Topics include: LVMPD SAR team structure, Red Rock Canyon, helicopter rescue operations, 911 communication protocols, volunteer SAR requirements, Dave Van Buskirk's legacy, preventable versus unpreventable accidents, risks, double rack philosophy, how SAR changes your climbing, and why tax dollars—not rescue fees—fund Las Vegas search and rescue operations. Watch the full episode on Youtube #searchandrescue #climbingaccident #tradclimbing #climbingsafety --- Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources Learn More About LVMPD Search and Rescue, Donate, & More! LVMPD' IG
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#114
February 23 · 1 hr 44 min
114 | Justin Sackett: Chasing Altitude - Close Calls & Training for Everest Without O2
Justin Sackett, an AMGA guide who googled "hardest hike" in college and ended up on a 20,000-foot peak in Ecuador with zero mountaineering experience. That failure lit a fire that led him from complete beginner to professional guide to running his own guide company at 28—all while training single-mindedly for Everest without supplemental oxygen. This episode explores his rapid progression to being an alpine guide, the mentor who gave him the technical foundation most climbers take years to develop, and the Liberty Ridge storm where 60mph winds and inadequate gear taught him lessons about weather forecasts and risk tolerance. We discuss the Rainier ice block incident that made several of his friends quit guiding, why he started his own company instead of working for established services, how he vets guides, and what training for Everest without oxygen actually looks like when you're also running a business. Justin opens up about the genetic lottery of altitude performance, why the West Ridge of Everest represents the ultimate objective in his mind, and how he's preparing mentally for both success and failure. Topics include: becoming a mountain guide, AMGA certifications, Liberty Ridge conditions, guide company management, hiring guides, Everest without oxygen training, altitude acclimatization, post-objective depression, risk tolerance at 8,000 meters, and balancing business ownership with personal climbing goals. Watch the full episode on Youtube #amgaguides #highaltitudeclimbing #mountaineering #alpinism --- Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources Book Justin Sackett's Guide Services Justin's IG
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#113
February 9 · 1 hr 46 min
113 | David Baltz: 50 Years Of Climbing: Old School Ethics & Timeless Stories
David Baltz started climbing in 1974 when there were only eight climbers in all of Albuquerque. Over five decades, he's witnessed climbing's transformation from a fringe pursuit requiring pitons and commitment...to a commercialized sport with grid-bolted crags and documentaries glorifying free soloing. This episode explores the clean climbing revolution that defined David's early years, the bolting controversies that followed sport climbing's arrival in New Mexico, and what gets lost when safety becomes the priority over experience. We discuss finding partners in an era before Facebook groups, the ethics of retrobolting established trad lines, Alex Honnold's impact on climbing culture, and how David approaches climbing now. Topics include: clean climbing history, New Mexico first ascents, bolting ethics, trad climbing at 69, helmet debates, commercialization of outdoor sports, Free Solo culture, risk versus safety, aging climbers, psychological climbing, sport climbing evolution, and maintaining old school values in modern climbing. Watch the full episode on Youtube #livinglegend #oldschoolclimber --- Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Highland Sweater Here Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast Resources David's Mountain Project Profile
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