That's Not Real Climbing

Jinni Xia

A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.

Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!

For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.

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20 episodes
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Avg 1 hr 18 min
English

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S7 · E5
August 17 · 1 hr 31 min
Ella Fisher - No Fancy Training Facility? No Problem.
Ella is a lead climber on team USA who made her first world series finals earlier this year in Prague! In this episode, we’ll learn about how she climbs the same lead routes all year round to train in Arizona, why she doesn’t want to move to Salt Lake City despite that, how a simple vitamin deficiency wrecked her body for a whole year, and how she went from placing 40th in world cups to making semis and finals in 1 year. Guest links: Ella's Instagram Reference links: Check out https://comp.rocks for climbing competitions near you! (Currently USA only) Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:42 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:33 - Preparing for Koper 10:36 - Starting climbing at 3 14:03 - Getting coached by her dad 20:09 - Fitness is all that matters for lead? 24:42 - Why she doesn't want to move to SLC 30:14 - Beta video before lead quails!!! 34:36 - Seeing a dyno in a lead route 35:58 - First WS finals experience 41:33 - 40th place to making finals in 1 year 44:38 - Training routine 49:52 - Ella LOVES autobelays! 57:13 - Youth climbers don't need to hang board 59:41 - A year of health issues 1:10:08 - Upcoming goals 1:13:25 - Balancing training with coaching and college 1:19:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you deal with pressure? 1:21:46 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you do fantasy climbing league? 1:22:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Would you ever go back to Schwandorf? 1:29:33 - Where to find Ella
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S7 · E4
July 27 · 1 hr 5 min
Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi - Indonesian Speed Climbing DOMINANCE
Robby is a speed climber from Indonesia who has already gotten 2 silver medals in the world series season this year! In this episode, we’ll learn about the climbing scene in Indonesia, speed climbing rituals and whether they’re actually helpful, we’ll hear this thoughts on the 4 lane and speed relay formats, and we’ll get insight into how he got so good at speed climbing after only training it consistently for 3 years. Guest links: Robby's Instagram Reference links: Robby's favorite speed moment - Sam's WR Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:37 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:28 - Getting medals in Europe 3:51 - Only been seriously speed training for 3 years?! 10:33 - Breaking plateaus 15:26 - Ritual before each speed run 21:15 - What's more important: Speed or consistency? 22:58 - What speed training looks like 28:57 - Opinion on relay format 31:40 - How team selection works 37:23 - The surprises that come with 4 lanes 39:27 - Indonesia climbing scene 45:44 - 2027 goals and lessons from Sam Watson + Zhao Yicheng 51:17 - Olympic dreams 52:15 - Hobbies and studying 53:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you handle burnout? 56:57 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you improve so fast? 59:11 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you breathe during a speed run? 1:00:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you train other sports? 1:01:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Describe your previous coach? 1:03:48 - Where to find Robby
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S7 · E3
July 13 · 1 hr 22 min
Meagan + C Lad - SPONSORED belayers?!
Meagan Knecht and C Lad are both level 5 belayers in the USA who are also helping out with belay training videos for World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll debunk the myth that women can’t belay men or heavier climbers, we’ll learn about the problems with Assisted Braking Device (ABD)requirements in gyms, and of course, we'll talk about how to get into high level belaying and how they became SPONSORED belayers thanks to Trango. Guest links: USA Belay Instagram C Lad's Instagram Meagan's Instagram USA Belay YouTube Reference links: Wujiang 2025 Belayer Aiding Climber Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:19 - Excitement for Pan-American series 4:21 - Getting into climbing and belaying 14:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between an avg vs elite belayer? 20:26 - Work that allows the flexibility for travel 22:48 - How to get into belaying at a high level 27:43 - Setting the standard for World Climbing 34:36 - ATC vs ABDs in gyms 39:06 - The belayer's unique pivotal role 43:41 - Snugroping? 45:28 - Athlete interactions 48:00 - Dual-belay system 52:44 - Is it too late to become an Olympics belayer? 56:42 - Being sponsored as belayers 1:01:54 - Why is belaying para the best? 1:08:46 - Routesetting that makes belaying harder 1:14:25 - AUDIENCE Q: What's it like to walk up to an Olympian and belay them? 1:16:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite venue to belay at? 1:18:33 - Where to find the beladies and words of wisdom
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S7 · E2
June 29 · 1 hr 5 min
Max Ayrton - "Alternative" Climbing Moves Are SO In
Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter. Guest links: Max's Instagram Reference links: Bern Women's M3 CWIF Cartwheel Boulder Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background 7:00 - World climbing setting levels 10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked 15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue? 18:24 - What is the perfect round? 22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters? 24:19 - Forerunning process 29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves 34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!! 38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors 42:34 - Zones vs tops point change 44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse 52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?! 54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting? 59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems? 1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year? 1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51? 1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max
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S7 · E1
June 15 · 1 hr 11 min
Samuel Richard - New School Climbers are LOCKED IN
Sam is an 18 year old French boulderer who just recently won bronze at the 2026 Madrid world climbing series. You may also know him as the youngest person to ever do v17. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the world of new school climbing, how regimented routines and being locked in could push climbing further than ever before, and how he may want to just give up climbing one day. Guest links: Sam’s Youtube Sam’s Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:26 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:17 - Reflecting on Madrid World Series 6:40 - Can you see results in ISO? 9:31 - Starting climbing at age 2 12:46 - Climbing strengths and weaknesses 16:17 - Fearlessness for new school climbing 22:05 - French team training and powering out 24:30 - French Team Selection 29:36 - Qualis is the most physical round 31:37 - "Sam Richard" as a persona 35:19 - Getting energy from the audience 38:41 - Climbing journal 43:49 - Hot take: outdoor climbing is better than indoor? 51:35 - Youngest person to climb v17? 53:08 - Climbing optimization 57:13 - Quitting climbing for running... 1:01:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the transition from youth to senior? 1:05:13 - AUDIENCE Q: How to hype yourself up? 1:07:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the bromance between you, Mejdi, and Manu? 1:10:05 - Words of widsom and where to find Sam
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May 4 · 1 hr 9 min
Andy McVittie - The Kids are Climbing TOO MUCH!
Andy is a climbing PT and this is his second time on the podcast. This time, he’s here with new research to talk about why youth climbers are maybe overdoing it with the climbing training, what early arthritis looks like, and the surprising dangers of outdoor climbing when it comes to competition climbers. Guest links: Website Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:05 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:45 - Spain trip and watching PCL 4:44 - Getting into climbing and PT 8:00 - Youth getting into competing more? 9:10 - Are youth climber overtraining? 11:28 - Outcome of growth plate fractures 16:43 - Youth Climbers very rarely get injured 21:28 - Youth climbers should not specialize in climbing 32:03 - What does arthritis look like? 37:00 - Is synovitis a sign of future arthritis? 38:55 - Injuries are actually coming from outdoor climbing.... 46:32 - Max Milne's Foot Injury 49:53 - Are injury rates increasing within comp climbers? 52:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Common adult injuries breaking into the comp scene? 59:48 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you even climb with hyper mobility? 1:06:54 - Words of wisdom and where to find Andy
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S6 · E10
April 27 · 1 hr 20 min
Emil + Felix Abrahamsson - ANNOUNCING Fantasy Climbing League!
You likely know Emil from being one of the OG climbing Youtubers who has also competed in a few world cups for Sweden. With his brother, Felix, they have started a new Fantasy Climbing League platform! In this episode, we’ll learn about how the Fantasy Climbing League works, how they feel about sports gambling in climbing, who their top picks are for their teams, and their predictions for all things competition. Guest links: Fantasy Climbing League Site Emil’s Youtube Felix’s Instagram Emil’s Instagram Reference links: Boardclimbs App Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:01 - Living in Arco 5:22 - Starting climbing and competing 14:26 - Existential AI talk 17:14 - Fantasy Climbing League overview 21:10 - They've never played fantasy sports before!! 22:47 - Drafting strategy 25:37 - Are fantasy leagues gambling-adjacent?? 33:36 - Top picks of the season 42:07 - Are injury comebacks good picks? 45:13 - Janja vs Ai debate 52:26 - Will Tomoa have a downfall?! 1:00:03 - Tomoa v Meichi? 1:02:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What style of comp climbing would change the results the most? 1:10:21 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the future of comp climbing look like? 1:13:38 - AUDIENCE Q: What expectations should a comp beginner have? 1:18:04 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your favorite WoW dungeon? 1:19:05 - Join Fantasy Climbing League ASAP!!!
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S6 · E9
April 13 · 1 hr 17 min
Sam Avezou - The SECRETS to French Climbing
Sam is a French boulder and lead climber who has medals from several world cups and competed alongside his sister, Zelia at the Paris Olympics! In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like growing up in a climbing family, tips for climbing as a short king, why he struggled in the 2025 season, and how he self-coaches. Guest links: Sam’s Instagram Guitar Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:34 - His mother still competing at 42 years old 7:45 - Getting into climbing and competing 9:31 - AUDIENCE Q: Did growing up in a climbing family add pressure? 12:52 - Struggling between youth and senior circuits 16:51 - Rough 2025 season 22:53 - 2028 Olympics strategy 26:37 - Being a short king 31:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for short kings? 35:41 - Training with the French team 37:51 - AUDIENCE Q: how do you self coach? 41:21 - Training only with climbing 45:21 - Gyms worth visiting in Paris 47:05 - Secrets to French slab 51:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What are you thinking about when climbing? 56:06 - Mental game 58:41 - 2026 goals 1:01:22 - AUDIENCE Q: Playing guitar? 1:04:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you make a living climbing? 1:08:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How to gain finger strength? 1:12:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Recovery routine? 1:15:56 - Where to find Sam
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S6 · E8
March 30 · 1 hr 29 min
Jackie Hueftle - The MASTERMIND Behind PCL Routesetting
Jackie was the routesetting director at the Pro Climbing League (PCL) comp and is also the co-founder of Kilter! In this episode, we’ll learn more about the unique challenges that came with setting for PCL, why she thinks it’s important to have more women setting for women’s comps, and how YOU could maybe try climbing the same exact boulders set at PCL. Guest links: Kiter’s Website Jackie’s Instagram Pro Climbing League Website Kilter Youtube Reference links: Underrated hold Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:00 - Still cleaning up from PCL 5:42 - Interesting Kilter free-standing option 7:34 - Getting into climbing, setting, and Kilter 13:38 - The political path to becoming an IFSC setter 15:34 - Starting the Woman Up Comps 20:00 - What grade do you need to climb to be a route setter? 22:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you build the PCL routesetting team? 28:46 - What made setting different for PCL 32:09 - How to get separation 36:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Was this speed bouldering, was women's setting too easy? 41:57 - Is sanding down holds fair?! 43:47 - Why it's hard to calibrate for female competitors 51:16 - How boulder changeover worked 55:37 - The slab that didn't get shown 58:24 - Different competition strategies 1:03:27 - AUDIENCE Q: Harder to gauge setting than World Cup? 1:04:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did the setting matter more than a World Cup? 1:07:04 - AUDIENCE Q: Mixed gender events in the future? 1:09:13 - AUDIENCE Q: idea - 2 betas per boulder? 1:11:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Are setters more impressed or annoyed by beta breaks? 1:17:23 - AUDIENCE Q: What makes Kilter stand out? 1:22:30 - Underrated hold? 1:25:02 - Shoutouts and long work hours 1:26:51 - YOU can reset the PCL climbs and experience them!
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S6 · E7
March 16 · 1 hr 45 min
Mickael Mawem - An HONEST talk about money in climbing
Mickael is a french boulderer and he is the bouldering world champ from Bern 2023. In this episode, we have an extremely honest conversation about how growing up poor motivated him to make money as a climber, why he stuck with climbing despite the lack of financial prospects, what his training looks like which includes warming up with 80 pull-ups, and of course, what happened during the Bern world champ finals. Shoutout to Madrock for hosting this interview at their headquarters! Guest links: Mickael’s Instagram Reference links: Climbing with Jonathan Sin Video Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 3:46 - Starting climbing with his brother Bassa 7:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Being one of the few black climbers in the IFSC 13:39 - Affording climbing when growing up poor 24:31 - Pro climbing only pays enough for the present 28:10 - Why he would not choose climbing in hindsight 30:51 - Why he still chose climbing 34:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you ever compete again in the IFSC? 38:33 - The goal: be rich 45:25 - Bern World Champs finals boulders 53:26 - Encountering no-tex for the first time ever 1:01:59 - Mickael's crazy pull up training 1:06:12 - How to work on your technique 1:11:47 - The secret to French slab 1:14:28 - Why he trains alone 1:21:59 - Keeping up with the evolution of climbing 1:25:44 - His future in climbing? 1:31:01 - New climbing goal 1:33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Who were your role models growing up? 1:34:46 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your family like? 1:39:28 - AUDIENCE Q: How to maintain strength without getting injured? 1:44:50 - Where to find Mickael
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S6 · E6
February 23 · 1 hr 8 min
Mo Beck - UNRETIRING for the Paralympic Dreams
Mo is a paraclimber in the AU2 class, and she is trying to qualify for the 2028 Paralympics! She has been climbing for over 22 years and had actually retired from competing…until hearing about the Paralympics. In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like climbing with a stump, whether outdoor, indoor, or comp setting is most friendly to her impairment, we’ll talk about petty drama in the community, and what sport shopping is in the Paralympics. Guest links: Mo’s Instagram Mo’s Website Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:59 - Lifting at a bro-y gym 3:28 - The 'stump' impairment 7:40 - Getting into climbing and competing 13:39 - Thoughts on gym setting for her stump 22:10 - Becoming a real sport means drama 28:16 - "Training" back then vs real training now 29:29 - World Cup appearances 2026 and 2027 30:55 - What we know about Paralympics qualifications 32:18 - How the Paralympics have changed paraclimbing 35:49 - Paralympic "Sport shopping" 38:09 - Heartbreak over which sport classes got chosen for the Paralympics 42:17 - What her training will look like to qualify at 39 years old 46:44 - Audience Q: What does the process look like to qualify for Paralympics? 48:59 - Dealing with comp nerves 50:49 - Is outdoor climbing more friendly for her stump? 52:38 - Outdoor projects and first ascents 58:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite comp memory? 1:01:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Podium cupcake story? 1:03:20 - AUDIENCE Q: Getting sponsored by North Face and tips for getting sponsors 1:06:20 - Words of wisdom and where to find Mo
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S6 · E5
February 2 · 1 hr 14 min
Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??
Rachel is a Team GB coach and also Erin McNeice’s personal coach! She started as an athlete and competed in youth worlds, but moved down the coaching path shortly after. In this episode, we’ll talk about performance anxiety as an athlete, the difficulties she faced being taken seriously as a young female coach, and we’ll get insight into team GB’s training as well as Erin’s insanely huge team of coaches. Guest links: Rachel’s Instagram Rachel’s Youtube Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:03 - Getting ready for British Bouldering Champs 4:41 - Performance anxiety as an athlete 8:59 - Being "realistic" on your performance 13:46 - Becoming a coach 15:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between coaching youth vs senior? 20:48 - Weirdness of coaching your past competition 23:47 - Lack of trust in female coaches 31:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What advice would you give to aspiring female coaches? 34:29 - Erin's crazy huge team of coaches! 40:23 - Team GB's philosophy on training style 43:48 - Erin's 1 weird weakness... 45:47 - Overrated and underrated training techniques? 50:17 - Climbing goals 53:57 - What's better than coaching at the Olympics? 56:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Why was GB Climbing funding so bad? 58:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Team GB is so strong right now, how has that impacted camaraderie amongst athletes? 1:03:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you coach the mental side of competition? 1:07:53 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you think new comps like PCL will impact the scene for athletes and coaches? 1:10:05 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for new coaches? 1:12:47 - Where to find Rachel
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S6 · E4
January 19 · 1 hr 6 min
Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!
Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a world cup finals! However, if you don’t recognize her, it may be because that was Prague where her finals round got rained out. In this episode, we’ll go over ALL the mishaps that happened at Prague including an allergic reaction, and we’ll learn about her training schedule, team GB, the climbing culture in commercial gyms, and how often she goes through climbing shoes, which was MIND BLOWING. Guest links: Emma’s Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:31 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:11 - My annual stretching resolution 5:29 - Used to do 6 days on 1 day off?! 9:29 - Getting into climbing and competing 11:47 - First year in the Senior Circuit 14:28 - Starstruck warming up next to Miho & Janja 16:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Advice for youth climbers transitioning to senior? 17:02 - Climbing styles 20:12 - Prague allergic reaction disaster 24:59 - Prague finals getting rained out 27:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you feel about the mental side of comp climbing? 29:51 - Pretty decent prize money! :o 31:40 - Being a taller climber 32:45 - Team GB training in commercial gyms 38:09 - British Youtube + Zoella 39:47 - Season expectations? 42:14 - Toxic Gym Culture? 46:45 - Outdoor Climbing 47:55 - Enjoying sedentary activities 50:29 - Trying to balance training with school 53:27 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you decide what gyms to train at? 55:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Making climbing shoes last? 59:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite boulder from Brussels European cup? 1:00:35 - AUDIENCE Q: What's the difference between TC and world cups? 1:02:42 - AUDIENCE Q: Does your brother climb harder than you yet? 1:04:43 - Words of wisdom and where to find Emma
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S6 · E3
January 5 · 1 hr 19 min
Charlie Boscoe - Founding a BRAND NEW Bouldering Series
This is Charlie’s second time on the podcast and he’s back with a big announcement! For those who aren’t familiar, Charlie preceded Matt Groom as the IFSC/World Climbing commentator. This time, he’s back to talk about the brand new competition series, Pro Climbing League. In this episode, we’ll go over all the details of what a PCL competition will look like, the challenges they faced the past 5 years putting this together, and I’m diving into all the finances as well. Guest links: PCL Website PCL Instagram Charlie’s Instagram Reference links: Solo Documentary (Kayaking Story) Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:13 - PCL test event 3:32 - IFSC/World Climbing Background 6:17 - What is Pro Climbing League? 11:18 - Live routesetting during a competition 15:21 - YOU may be able to compete! 19:25 - Hardest part of setting up a climbing league 24:25 - Why PCL was started 29:16 - AUDIENCE Q: What prompted the head to head format? 34:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you consult with athletes for this format? 40:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Challenges broadcasting this comp? 44:22 - Getting sponsor money for the league 47:08 - Most expensive part 53:00 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the prize money look like? 1:00:07 - I'm addicted to the concept of sports betting 1:05:08 - What does success look like? 1:08:51 - AUDIENCE Q: Future schedule and locations? 1:11:18 - AUDIENCE Q: What aspect of the format excited athletes the most? 1:14:16 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you use adjustable walls for the comp? 1:17:07 - Where to find PCL deets!
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S6 · E2
Dec 1, 2025 · 1 hr 10 min
Declan Osgood & Zoe Yi - Fukuoka TEAM Climbing Event TELL-ALL
Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka exhibition team event for team USA where they climbed in all 5 boulder and lead rounds! In this episode, we’ll learn about their unorthodox climbing training program here in San Diego, how team selection and strategy worked at Fukuoka, and whether there was added pressure climbing with a team and coach present. Guest links: Declan’s Instagram Zoe’s Instagram Reference links: Fukuoka Competition Playlist Yank n yard stream: Highball boulders comp Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:03 - Starting climbing and competing 4:48 - Strength training BAD?! 10:18 - Japan traveling 11:50 - Fukuoka team event selection process 14:28 - Difficulty of the climbs 18:37 - Talking to the coach during the comp 20:59 - Pressure climbing with a coach and teammates 23:51 - Team competition strategies 28:08 - 5 rounds in 3 days 31:06 - First time competing on IFSC livestream 33:15 - The stress of youth competitions 35:34 - World Cup climbing is uncomfortable 40:23 - Lead vs boulder preference 44:37 - Future climbing + education goals 49:26 - Now we're just glazing San Diego 54:41 - Audience Q: Anything you would've wanted to change with the team event? 58:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Memories/advice from youth training? 1:02:17 - Being known as the "benchwarmers' benchwarmers" 1:03:08 - Outdoor goals 1:05:17 - Beating Elden Ring 1:06:28 - Relationship advice from 18 year olds! 1:09:13 - Words of wisdom + where to find Zoe and Declan
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S6 · E1
Nov 17, 2025 · 1 hr 18 min
Hannes Van Duysen - Slab KING Feels Pressure
You may have heard of him as the slab master, but Hannes is a climber on Team Belgium who just recently got silver in boulder at Arco Rockmasters and also won a bronze in Innsbruck this past 2025 season! In this episode, we’ll go over his 2025 season, get his tips on slab climbing, and learn about how he tries to stay in the right mindset during stressful competitions. Guest links: Hannes’ Instagram Reference links: Amazing Arco Rockmaster Slab Top The Backflip of Anger Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:12 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:56 - Elbow surgery! 4:20 - Rockmasters reflection 10:55 - Getting into climbing and competing 15:27 - Transitioning out of youth comps 17:24 - 2025 season reflection 22:41 - Comps are going back to old-school climbs 26:08 - Instagram influencing world cups 28:44 - Staying in shape throughout a long competition season 32:10 - Lead vs boulder preference 35:43 - Training schedule + lifting vs gaining weight 43:12 - Pressure being the slab master 47:31 - Top slab tips 49:45 - The fickle mental game of comps 52:58 - Power of visualization for mindset 56:55 - The backflip of anger!! 1:00:16 - Taking his driving test 1:05:03 - 2026 goals 1:06:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What is the language situation in team Belgium? 1:09:37 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you think calisthenics/gymnastics is necessary now in comp climbing? 1:11:35 - AUDIENCE Q: How to stay calm during competitions? 1:16:43 - Words of wisdom + where to find Hannes
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S5 · E9
Oct 27, 2025 · 1 hr 36 min
Ben Hanna - Self Medicating ADHD with Climbing
Ben is a climber on Team USA and hold shaper for Pusher holds! In this episode we’ll get some insight into the grades of world cup boulders, how depression, anxiety, and ADHD shapes his relationship with climbing, how he balances working as a routesetter with training, and get his thoughts on hold shaping. Guest links: Ben’s Instagram Reference links: Seoul World Champs Boulder Semis The Boss hold Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:10 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:53 - World champs experience 11:51 - Difficulty of semis boulders at world cups 18:33 - Getting into climbing and competing 22:36 - Climbing as self-medication for ADHD 30:20 - Training routine...or lack thereof 38:44 - Actually a lead climber 45:21 - MORE power boulders! 51:55 - Competitiveness with Colin 55:11 - Becoming a hold shaper 59:00 - Good holds vs bad holds 1:09:54 - Thoughts on no tex 1:20:05 - 2026 goals 1:21:56 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you really start climbing at 2? 1:26:19 - AUDIENCE Q: What kept you motivated to keep trying after failures at nationals 1:30:53 - AUDIENCE Q: What local climbers helped you growing up? 1:33:51 - Shoutouts + where to find Ben
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S5 · E8
Oct 13, 2025 · 47 min
Annie Sanders - EXCLUSIVE: 2025 IFSC Season Thoughts
Annie is a climber on Team USA and she had an amazing world cup season this year with 2 boulder golds and a lead gold and even more podiums! In this episode we’ll learn about what goes through her mind during her crazy beta breaks, what her training routine looks like, and how gym access really influences performance. Guest links: Annies’s Instagram Annie’s Xiaohungshu (red book) Reference links: Women’s Boulder Final Seoul World Champs Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 0:56 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:39 - Jetlag + travels 5:29 - Growing up in a climbing family 7:09 - Static + slow climbing style 10:07 - Regretting static beta breaks?? 12:08 - Timing out in lead 18:22 - 2026 goals 20:49 - Annie's training plan 24:32 - Lack of gym access 27:43 - Post-high school plans 30:22 - Outdoor climbing 33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you still be an elite climber without passion? 35:43 - Audience Q: Mindset during comps? 41:36 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for endurance? 42:26 - Audience Q: Advice on how to break dynos? 43:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it hard previewing climbs with other athletes? 45:57 - Outro and where to find Annie
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S5 · E7
Sep 15, 2025 · 1 hr 44 min
Sagi Damti - German Coach DEBUNKS Olympics Rumors
Sagi has been the German team’s bouldering coach since 2022! In this episode, we’ll get insight into Team Germany’s training and challenges, hear why he thinks the losses hurt the coaches more than the competitors, we’ll get a story about his experience as a homeless person while in the US, and most importantly, we’ll DEBUNK his famous statement in the Magnus video that Olympic qualifiers will still be in the combined format for 2028! Guest links: Sagi’s Instagram Reference links: IFSC Format Experiment Upcoming Comp Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:40 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:24 - Youth worlds + Spain travels 4:59 - Climbing + coaching with no experience! 12:02 - Becoming the German bouldering coach 19:42 - Do pros still need climbing tips?? 22:41 - Team Germany's training breakdown + reaction time practice 28:19 - Comforting athletes who have a bad round 37:58 - DEBUNKING LA 2028 qualification process 44:07 - The issue with bouldering points system 47:32 - HOT TAKE: Bouldering is no longer real climbing 54:53 - New generation of climbing 1:02:55 - German team challenges 1:09:42 - Price of hosting world cups 1:11:13 - Bouldering needs to change 1:18:50 - USA travel nightmare 1:28:03 - IG Q: Athletes in Germany that hate the DAV? 1:32:11 - DISCORD Q: Talk through the process of an appeal 1:38:58 - DISCORD Q: What do you do in ISO? 1:40:55 - Words of wisdom + where to find Sagi
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S5 · E6
Sep 1, 2025 · 1 hr 19 min
Miguel Zevallos - FIX Your Comp Climbing INJURIES
Miguel is a climbing physical therapist who works closely with the Method youth climbing team in the US and recently worked his first youth nationals! In this episode, we’ll learn about the danger of growth plate injuries in youth climbing athletes, we’ll get a glimpse into youth ISO, we’ll rank 3 of the most dangerous comp moves we’ve seen so far, and we’ll hear about his own journey trying to make the Peruvian national team! Guest links: Miguel’s Instagram Miguel’s website Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:03 - Getting into PT and climbing 4:09 - OTs vs PTs and insurance battles 7:26 - Working with youth comp climbers 9:44 - What ISO is like at youth nationals 14:38 - Massage guns? And my bro-science musings 16:43 - Injuries in kids vs adults 19:37 - The big one: growth plate injuries in kids 25:01 - When to rest vs train through an injury 27:34 - General recommendations for climbing injuries 32:45 - S+C to prevent ankle, shoulder injuries 35:26 - Ranking 3 dangerous comp moves 42:27 - When NOT to tape 47:28 - What injuries do vs don't require time off the wall 52:53 - Chronic injuries? Maybe you're climbing wrong... 59:33 - Training for Peruvian nationals 1:06:37 - DISCORD Q: What advice would you give to PT students looking to work with climbers? 1:08:46 - DISCORD Q: What are the pillars of a strong climbing warmup? 1:12:27 - DISCORD Q: top 2 exercises for injury prevention 1:17:29 - Words of wisdom and where to find Miguel
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