S8 · E6July 23 · 1 hr 1 min
This week is a truly madcap sniffathon HOPEFULLY encompassing [*takes a
deep breath*] wild seascapes, fragrant ghosts and a notorious rake; a spicy
summer scent to set your senses tingling; a fruity treat based on a perfumer’s
favourite breakfast; a splendiferous peacock strutting its scented stuff; a stunning
sueded rose; perfumes pulled straight from the vegetable patch; Harrods
exclusives to swoon over; a seriously affordable new niche house; a mesmerising
myrrh, and Alice du Parcq’s book pre-order discount code…
AND if all that wasn’t enough, we’re also answering a #listenerprescription for a
jasmine fragrance to remind her of a dance while wearing jasmine garlands.
Phew!
Can we possibly fit it all in without going off-topic? Listen along and find out!
BeauFort London continued: Following on from last week’s fascinating interview
with founder Leo Crabtree, Nicola tries a trio of intriguing scents:
Cape Wrath
‘Cape Wrath Eau De Parfum. Named after the rugged area of coastline on the
most North Westerly tip of Britain, Cape Wrath pulls inspiration from this wild,
treacherous seascape. The remote landmark - named after the old Norse word
for ‘turning point’ has for centuries been used by sailors to safely navigate the
coast of Britain, yet its treacherous waters have claimed countless vessels.
Character: Powerful; wild; windswept
THE WEARING EXPERIENCE
Top Notes: Pink Pepper, Elemi, Galbanum, Angelica Root
Opens with a blast of
bracing ocean air.
Heart Notes: Frankincense, Mastic, Geranium
Resinous smoke and geranium
add both warmth and austerity.
Base Notes: Ambergris, Vetiver, Ambrette, Seaweed, Oakmoss
Absolute
Mossy oceanic base which powerfully lingers.
Perfumer: Euan McCall
Absent Presence
‘‘O absent presence, Stella is not here’
The fifth and final instalment of the Revenants collection draws inspiration from
the Elizabethan poet Sir Philip Sidney. In his Sonnet sequence ‘Astrophel and
Stella’ Sidney develops and captures the essence of a haunting… the presence
of one that is always felt but never seen.
‘Now I, wit-beaten long by hardest fate,
So dull am, that I cannot look into
The ground of this fierce love and lovely hate,
Then some good body tell me how I do,
Whose presence absence, absent presence is;
Blesst in my curse, and cursed in my bliss.’
Comprising the highest level of natural ingredients of any BeauFort fragrance,
Absent Presence explores its themes with typically ‘overdosed’ concentrations of
violet leaf absolute, vetiver bourbon oil, smoky leather and black pepper oil. As
with all the Revenants family, Absent Presence is presented as 30% Eau De
Parfum.
Character: Dark; enveloping; waves.
THE WEARING EXPERIENCE
Top Notes: Bergamot, Galbanum, Pepper
Fresh, green, and fleeting felt but out
of reach.
Heart Notes: Jasmine, Violet
Jasmine and violet bloom with intensity.
Base Notes: Leather, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber, Cedarwood
Warm leather,
woods, amber and musk linger like a ghost on the skin, the violet heart returning
in waves.
Perfumer: Julie Dunkley.’
Rake & Ruin
‘Rake & Ruin Eau De Parfum is inspired by the works of satirist William Hogarth,
this fragrance summons his characters from a gin soaked 18th century London.
This debauched Eau De Parfum incorporates the botanical ingredients of gin;
dark woods, civet, musks and amber bringing to life 'all manner of Vice and
Wickedness.’
THE WEARING EXPERIENCE
Top Notes: Angelica, Liquorice, Juniper, Coriander, Szechuan Pepper, Pink
Pepper, Orange, Lemon
Opens with a sharp, gin-like freshness, spiced and
effervescent.
Heart Notes: Cypress, Pine Needles, Castoreum, Labdanum, Cade Oil, Costus,
Violet Orris
Bowing to a heart of smoky woods, animalic tones and powdered
florals.
Base Notes: Dark Woods, Ambrarome, Sandalwood, Musk
Dark woods, musk
and animalic. Ambrarome complete the seductive yet slightly sinister finish.’
Alice du Parcq’s book: The Philosophy of Perfume
Pre-order at Waterstones for £10 (25% off with code SUMMER26)
https://tinyurl.com/AliceWaterstones
‘The Philosophy of Perfume is a fun, warm, thoughtful and practical book all
about fragrance, which looks at its origins and how it's made, how we smell and
how best to shop for perfume. It is an adventure into the facts, folklore and
fantasies surrounding perfume, delving into how it has evolved through the eras
and decades as an artform, reflecting our cultural patterns through history. In the
book, you'll meet perfumers who share insights into their fascinating creative
process; you'll learn the science behind how we smell and the wild emotional
voyage from smell to soul! There are tales of scented superstitions, and the
literary and historical figures who inspire perfume, plus the ways in which AI is
impacting the future of fragrance and a helpful guide on how to shop for perfume
and find The One(s!).
It was so important to me that this book was not for perfume experts, but for
fragrance lovers of all ages who want a moment of enchantment laced with
interesting facts, a sprinkle of science and some practical guidance when on their
next scent shopping safari.’
AKRO Heat
‘HEAT is our addictive chili fragrance.
Chili is not just a spice. It is a rush. A burn you think you can handle. The first
time you smell it, it hits, it wakes you up. Then it warms you. Then you want it
again.
The best chili doesn’t just flavour. It ignites. It makes your skin tingle. Your
temperature rise. Your pulse quicken. Your senses sharpen.
HEAT is that moment when warmth turns into craving. When your body asks for
more. A vibrant indulgence. A dopamine shot you keep coming back to.
HEAT is a scent that sets you on fire and makes you love the burn.
TOP: CORIANDER SEED, LEMON, RED CHILI
MIDDLE: CARDAMOM, GINGER, JUNIPER
BASE: CEDARWOOD, AMBROX, MUSK.’
Jeroboam Oud Morning
By Vanina Muracciole
‘Oud Morning from Jeroboam is the perfect balance of brightness and depth.
Opening with an unexpected burst of blueberry, saffron and resins, the
composition moves into a heart of Indian oud, softened with leather and aged
woods. Sandalwood, ambroxan and white musk anchor it into a smooth, sensual
base, finishing the creation on an intimate note.
Top Notes: Blueberry, Gurjum Balsam, Saffron
Middle Notes: Indian Oudh, Leather, Dry Wood, Violet
Base Notes: Sugar, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, White Musks.’
Alexandre J Royal Peacock (Harrods Exclusive)
‘At the turn of the 20th century, Art Nouveau reshaped the decorative arts.
Mucha, Gallé, Tiffany, Lalique, all drew on nature to invent a new grammar of
curves, stylised plants and extraordinary birds. Among them,
the peacock reigned supreme: its iridescent eyes and regal bearing embodied
the movement's core belief in beauty for beauty's sake.
The opening evokes an Italian espresso served with Viennese pastry. Roasted
coffee dialogues with hazelnut in a frankly gourmand accord, before maple
syrup brings its unmistakable amber roundness, sweet without cloying, almost
woody. Caramel amplifies the indulgence, while violet casts a powdery floral veil
that keeps the composition from tipping into excess. The vanilla-almond base
settles into a lasting, addictive warmth.’
Ormonde Jayne Suede Silhouette
‘Bathed in crimson and violet, Suede Silhouette reflects the warmth of saffron,
the richness of raspberry and the quiet confidence of suede. Exclusively at
Selfridges.’
Jo Malone London Veggies collection:
Celine Roux says: ‘We just loved that people, even in the middle of cities like
London, can grow their own carrots and herbs – the fact that everyone wants to
have a grasp on nature from wherever they are. This [collection] takes that idea
of something homegrown and unmanicured but gives it a fresh take’
Velvety Butternut:
‘The path ahead is smooth, just like a velvety butternut playfully plucked from the
veggie patch. Notes of smooth butternut, warm tonka bean and patchouli create
a woody gourmand scent.
Top - Ginger
Spicy and fresh with a zingy lemon quality, it opens the fragrance with lively
brightness.
Heart - Butternut
Smooth and nutty, notes of butternut imbues the fragrance with a delicious
warmth and creaminess.
Base - Patchouli
Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the
longevity of the fragrance.’
Carrot Blossom:
‘Life is sweet, just like carrot blossom gloriously gathered from the veggie patch.
Notes of subtly sweet carrot, orange flower and white musk create a fresh floral
scent.
Top - Fennel
Herbaceous with hints of aniseed, it adds a dewy sweetness to the top notes.
Heart - Carrot Blossom
Lightly floral and sweet, with an earthy accent, complementing the powdery notes
of orris.
Base - Patchouli
Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the
longevity of the fragrance.’
Suzy’s favourite: Scarlet Beetroot
‘Colour is all around, just like a scarlet beetroot splendidly spied in the veggie
patch. Notes of beetroot, vibrant blackcurrant and a dash of patchouli create a
delicious fruity scent.
Top - Blackcurrant
Intensely juicy and ripe, it gives a crisp edge to the fragrance.
Heart - Beetroot
An accord that captures the naturalness of freshly cut beetroot combined with an
earthy texture.
Base - Patchouli
Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the
longevity of the fragrance.’
Jo Malone London Cologne Intense Harrods exclusives x 2:
Iris & White Musk
‘The Iris and White Musk Cologne Intense from Jo Malone London is a light and
airy scent that’s perfect for everyday use. It marries powdery iris with creamy
white musk, resulting in a distinctive aroma that’s ideal for layering with other
fragrances but can also be worn alone.
Fragrance Notes: Casablanca, White Musk, Vanilla.’
Rose & Oud Leather
‘A magnetic floral scent that blends smoky leather with oud.
Enduringly at the forefront of luxury perfumery, Jo Malone London presents the
Rose and Oud Leather Cologne Intense. The captivating fragrance is a tribute to
the prevailing beauty of the flower and is brought to life by additional notes of
patchouli and amber.
Top Notes: Oud, Leather
Middle Notes: Damask Rose
Base Notes: Patchouli, Amber.’
Idiom fragrances pop-up shop - 33 Great Windmill Street, Soho: open until
July 26th (but stay tuned for news of a permanent boutique soon!)
All the fragrances are layerable, and only £38 for 30ml eau de parfum. (Suzy’s
favourite combo is Acoustic Rose / Pepper Solstice / 3D Amplifier). In the
meantime: try a discovery kit of them all for £35.
Idiom
33 Great Windmill Street
Mon-Sat 12pm-7pm
Sun 12pm-5pm
idiomfragrances.com
Ella K Myrrh K
‘Myrrh K is a fragrance that reconciles indulgence with the sacred. It opens with
sundrenched florals and bitter almond, then melts into a tender sweetness —
Omani halwa, honey, toasted sesame, and golden saffron. Among the top notes,
the rose of Jebel Akhdar — fresh, pure, hand-picked in the mountains of Oman
— brings a subtle sophistication to the composition.
Its delicate rosewater nuance blends with the sweet halwa accord, enriching the
gourmandise with floral refinement. It acts like a red thread, linking flower to
resin, the floral to the sacred.
At the heart, a soft, luminous myrrh creates a bond between resin and skin. The
base wraps itself around roasted tonka bean, Madagascar vanilla, and warm
woods, leaving a deep and caressing trail.’
Bon Parfumeur at Jovoy: 005 Riviera Absolue
‘A convertible on the coastal road. The Mediterranean stretching endlessly
ahead. Wind in the hair, sun on the skin. 005 Riviera Absolue is all of this distilled
into three notes. A hesperidic aromatic extract by Paul Guerlain for Bon
Parfumeur.
The opening is an immediate and striking spark: Caviar Lemon, an Australian
citrus with juicy micro-beads, whose citrus vivacity and lightly floral brightness
are infinitely more precise and intense than classic lemon, explodes on the skin
with an almost electric freshness. No roundness, no conventional sweetness:
simply the sharp purity of an exceptional citrus, like the first ray of sunlight on
water in the morning. An opening that awakens instantly and resembles nothing
else.
At the heart, Ginger Essence takes over with a spiced, lightly citrus vivacity that
naturally extends the momentum of the opening. Sharp without burning, aromatic
without weighing down, ginger gives Riviera Absolue its characteristic energy. A
heart that sustains the tension and brightness of the opening while adding a
warm, spiced and discreetly aromatic depth.
At the base, Tomato Leaf signs Riviera Absoluewith its most unexpected and
most defining touch. Green, lightly tart, fresh and subtly bitter, it anchors the
fragrance in something resolutely vegetal and organic, entirely free of
conventional woody or ambered bases. It is this final note that transforms a spark
of freshness into an infinite memory: the scent of wild roadside vegetation,
caught at full speed, impossible to hold and impossible to forget.’
Listener prescription:
Geraldine asks:
‘Lovely ladies, thank you for all you continue to do, the joy you bring and your
inspirational content. I have another scent prescription for you inspired by your
recent Patreon episode on scents which remind people of special holiday places.
As a young girl I grew up in the Middle East and remember the smell of flower
garlands round my neck as part of a local dance I learned. The garlands were
mostly of jasmine and I adored Ostens Jasmine Impressions which transported
me back there. Sadly I've finished my Ostens bottle and can't find a replacement
anywhere. My mission for you this time is do you know of anywhere who stocks it
that can deliver to the UK please? Alternatively can you recommend some other
jasmine realistic fragrances I could try please? Thank you so much once again,
love Geraldine xxx’
ANSWER:
Last remaining Ostens fragrances / candles we know of available at Boots and
online (for delivery or Click & Collect) Sadly no jasmine perfume, but the Jasmine
candles are still there while stocks last! It MIGHT be worth trying the Boots niche
fragrance boutique at Broadgate shopping centre East London…?
https://www.boots.com/ostens
https://broadgate.co.uk/eatdrinkshop/boots-fragrance/
NYITA JASMIA™ Body Oil
‘Exquisitely scented with Enfleurage Jasmine to capture the full complexity of the
original flower. A blend of 11 nutrient-rich, cold-pressed, organic oils, super-
charged with our Power Plant Infusion™ . The Ultimate Seed Elixir will intensely
nourish your skin leaving it feeling firmer and remarkably radiant.
High in the Andes Mountains, our artisan jasmine growers employ an extremely
rare, Ancient Egyptian technique called ‘enfleurage’ to extract the essential oil for
this treasured body oil.
Enfleurage has almost vanished from modern perfumery today due to its time
consuming nature and cost.
Every day, for over a month, fresh jasmine petals are meticulously layered on
organic vegetable wax, painstakingly added by hand. Once the desired scent is
reached, it is then rinsed with an organic alcohol and the precious jasmine
essential oil is extracted.
Too delicate a flower to steam-distil, almost all jasmine is currently extracted with
a petrochemical solvent hexane or is a mass-produced synthetic. We never use
synthetics or petrochemical extracted scents.
Our special technique is superior to hexane extracted jasmine not only
environmentally, but also because it captures the full range and complexity of the
original scent, leaving an exceptional quality essential oil, with a scent like no
other. It is a rare commodity, produced in small, limited batches.’
Rogue Perfumery Jasmin Antique
‘Fresh, bright, living jasmine. Floral, fruity, indolic, creamy. The heady fragrance
of jasmine blossoms, permeating the summer night air. Jasmine Blossoms,
Musk, Clove, Vanilla.’
Chloé Atelier des Fleurs Jasminum
‘Envelop in Chloé's sumptuously velvety Jasminum Sambac eau de parfum, part
of the prestigious Atelier des Fleurs collection inspired by the art of floral
composition. An ode to the perfumer's memory of the exquisite jasmine sambac
Louise Turner smelled on Mother's Day in Bangkok, this fresh floral fragrance
evokes soft, sunny aromatic petals laced with dewdrops. Designed to work in
harmony, the fragrances from this collection can be layered-up or worn alone for
a distinctive signature.’
Diptyque Olene
‘Olene tells the story of Venetian gardens. In the evening, under the pergolas, the
sweet fragrance of wisteria and jasmine or sometimes honeysuckle, just as
delicate. Cross bridges to lose yourself, and then stroll through the narrow streets
to perceive the thousand and one scents of the flowers. The illustration for Olene
depicts Flora, a powerful Roman goddess. Endowed with great beauty, she is the
goddess of flowers, springtime and fertility.’
