Hairspring

Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.

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#102
Wednesday · 1 hr 8 min
Episode 102: Jason Fried
This week Erik & Max are honored to be joined by founder of 37signals, thoughtful collector, and original thinker Jason Fried. While this episode briefly touches on Jason’s path as a collector, it’s spends more time on the philosophy of a meaningful business, knowing what doesn’t matter in design, what mades watches special to love, what defines craft, which watches were the least impressive in the metal, how the ability to sell permanence is linked to looking after your product, and so much more. Links Mentioned: The MIH: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-elusive-mih-watch-up-for-grabs https://www.ablogtowatch.com/mih-watch-review/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-mih-gaia-watch 105.012: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/105-012-65-omega-speedmaster Steel Lange 1: https://langepedia.com/stainless-steel-a-lange-sohne/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lange-one-101026-steel (We were wrong around this timestamp Lange are at about 7,000 watches annually) Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon/ Inline Patek QP: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5236p-001-in-line-perpetual-calendar-a-first-for-patek-introducing 90% of Astons are still on the road: https://www.carthrottle.com/news/90-cent-aston-martin-cars-ever-built-are-still-road Rapide: https://www.the-intercooler.com/library/blog/man-maths-aston-martin-rapide/ Lagonda: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1983-aston-martin-lagonda-3/ Resonance Pisa: https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/229536 T10: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/t10-tourbillon-40mm-platinum Watch Jason is Googling Often: https://hairspring.com/products/sbgz005 Watch that Floored in Person: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/740-056-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-1 3 Watch Roll: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-patek-philippe-3670a-a-new-chronograph-in-st https://hairspring.com/products/701-011-pour-le-merite-tourbillon-pink-gold https://www.acollectedman.com/products/t10-tourbillon-40mm-platinum Only Wrist: https://naoyahidawatch.com/new-release/nh-type-7a/?lang=en https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/heuer-3646-second-execution-autavia https://hairspring.com/products/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honeygold
#101
August 22 · 1 hr 42 min
Episode 101: Urban Jürgensen (From Jørgen to Rosenfield, but Mostly Pratt-Baumberger)
This is the story of Danish watchmaking’s most storied name, a deep-dive chronicle to help collectors understand the very nuanced and convoluted history of Urban Jürgensen. This includes relevant backstory on Urban himself, a deep dive on Baumberger, Pratt, and the watches they made together—plus a look at what’s happening today under the Rosenfields and Venla with Kari Voutilainen. This episode focuses on wristwatches with particular attention given to the rise of the Pratt-Baumberger era, noting each reference in detail with points for collectors to come away from having learned something new: like how to take over Iceland. Links Mentioned: Some Guides Worth Reading: https://revolutionwatch.com/a-retrospective-the-legacy-of-urban-jurgensen/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-then-and-now 19th-Century Pocket Watch: https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/urban-jurgensen-lot-299-87 Jules Jürgensen Pocket Watch Deconstruction: https://www.thenakedwatchmaker.com/deconstruction-jules-jurgensen Baumberger: https://quillandpad.com/2020/05/20/tribute-to-peter-baumberger-1939-2010-rip-you-complete-and-utter-bastard/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/05/peter-baumberger-urban-jurgensen-helmut-crott.html Pratt: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/derek-pratt-the-forgotten-watchmaker https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/getting-to-know-derek-pratt-the-watchmakers https://quillandpad.com/2018/07/14/the-life-and-times-of-legendary-independent-watchmaker-derek-pratt-archive/ H4: https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/09/john-harrison-marine-chronometer-h4-diamond-pallets.html The Oval: https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/11/urban-jurgensen-derek-pratt-oval-pocket-watch.html https://www.phillips.com/detail/derek-pratt-for-urban-jurgensen/206983 https://www.phillips.com/article/149733060/derek-pratts-oval-pocket-watch-voutilainen-urban-jurgensen-phillips-reloaded Wristwatches: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/urban-jurgensen-wristwatches Ref 1: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/urban-jurgensen-reference-1 Ref 2: https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/213445 Ref 3: https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/228974 Ref 5: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-5-platinum Ref 8: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/urban-jurgensen-reference-8 Repeater Tourbillon: https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/228973 Great Podcast with Dr Helmut Crott: https://collectability.com/podcasts/interview-with-leading-horological-expert-and-pioneer-dr-helmut-crott/ Detent Escapement: https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/145819 Alfred: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-the-alfred-hands-on The One: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-one-collection-introducing Urban Jürgensen Revival: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-urban-jurgensen-uj-1 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3755pt-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon-skeleton-platinum https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum
#100
August 7 · 1 hr 52 min
Episode 100: Lessons Learned & Q&A (Pt. 9)
Now 100 episodes in, this episode covers some reflections and lessons learned. This is all ahead of a full-sized Q&A with questions ranging from a two-watch 100k collection, time traveling to give yourself advice, market direction, non-indie brands carrying the torch for watchmaking, and many other topics. Plus, a fantastic Only Wrist for a linebacker. Links Mentioned: Total Unbiased FP Journe Market Update: https://www.phillips.com/article/what-now-for-f-p-journe-at-auction-phillips-new-york-june-2026 Rolex + Tudor: https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel https://hairspring.com/products/7928-eagle-beak-gilt-dial-submariner-steel https://hairspring.com/products/8171-padellone-yellow-gold_43285 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i/daytona-john-player-special-reference-6241-a JDN: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jean-daniel-nicolas-two-minute-tourbillon https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/early-production-c187-daniel-roth-tourbillon-double-face Modern Patina: https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/165511 https://www.fratellowatches.com/two-months-of-living-with-the-tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-silver/ Vintage up to 5K: https://www.rescapement.com/blog/for-your-reference-rolex-air-king-reference-5500 https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-1018 https://universalgenevepolerouter.com/articles/ https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/168-017-linen-dial-omega-constellation-date https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk1-enicar-sherpa-jet-gmt Winnerl (Bernhard Zwinz): https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/striking-a-delicate-balance-tradition-and-innovation-in-modern-watchmaking-with-bernhard-zwinz-of-winnerl Some Contemporary Winners: https://hairspring.com/products/4300v-overseas-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-white-gold https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-chopard-luc-strike-one-titanium https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-blancpain-grande-double-sonnerie https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-classique-7225 https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/breguet-experimentale-1-magnetic-constant-force-escapement.html Pre-Daytona vs Daytona: https://hairspring.com/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1 https://hairspring.com/products/daytona-steel https://hairspring.com/products/6264-paul-newman-daytona-steel Independents: https://hairspring.com/products/mirage-38-sienna-yellow-gold-2 https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/11/petermann-bedat-1967-deadbeat-seconds-review.html https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-petermann-bedat-1825 https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/04/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-regulator-dial-decimal-repeater-piece-unique.html 2-Collection: https://hairspring.com/products/2526j-calatrava-frecerro-dial-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/7159-0-tudor-monte-carlo https://hairspring.com/products/403-035-datograph-first-generation-platinum https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum Jay-Z: https://wristcheck.com/us/discover/culturecheck/inside-jay-zs-watch-collection Bankrupt Indies: https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/hyt-files-for-bankruptcy-1234599628/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/02/rj-romain-jerome-bankrupt.html https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/brief-history-urban-jurgensen Only Wrist: https://mrwatchley.com/collections/watches/products/pascal-coyon-series-2-unique-piece-enamel-dial-with-breguet-numerals https://www.acollectedman.com/products/cartier-tortue-minute-repeater-2512c-white-gold
#99
July 21 · 1 hr 7 min
Episode 99: Unusual Vacheron Constantin (Venturing Beyond the Overseas and 222)
From things that came before the 2215 Chronometer to 43040s and repeaters, this episode covers all the quirky Vacheron Constantins that normally aren’t discussed—including a semantics argument of what is and isn’t a Cornes de Vache. If the more alternative side of VC has ever called to you, here is a broad overview of some areas that may be worth attention. Links Mentioned: Keith Mitchell TW: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/keith-mitchell-talking-watches 333: https://www.iconeek.com/auction-lot/vacheron-constantin-333-automatic-333-re_53e43b99be 2045: https://www.stephaniewindsor.com/products/vacheron-constantin https://www.bonhams.com/auction/21934/lot/195/vacheron-constantin-a-fine-18ct-white-gold-bracelet-watch-with-mint-green-dial-made-for-the-libyan-market-ref2045-circa-1976/ 4072: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/vacheron-constantin-reference-4072 https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/127999 4178: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/159992 49002: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/49002-vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-chronograph-in-pt 43040: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jump-hour-43040-yellow-gold-1 6087: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/90901 4764 ‘Cioccolatone’: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/90901 6562: https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-steel-automatic-watch-ref-6562 6111: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/223633 2215: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2215-vacheron-constantin-royal-chronometer-1 https://www.hodinkee.com/magazine/ronnie-fieg 43031: https://hairspring.com/products/43031-perpetual-calendar-guilloche-dial-platinum 43032: https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum Don Pancho: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/125233 4261: https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/03/vacheron-constantin-minute-repeater-4261-les-collectionneurs.html 6448: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/176180 ‘Renaissance’: https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-platinum-renaissance-ref-92084-incoming?srsltid=AfmBOoqbwD5TY11FkcNSn7gSE0KMsg9fakqtpPWifw1UEGgq1vTale2U 43050: https://hairspring.com/products/43050-mercator-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/enamel-taiwan-dial-43050-vacheron-constantin-mercator https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394747 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5758993 Harmony: https://rarist.pl/en/products/harmony-71201-saudi-arabia Serpenti: https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-tubogas-snake-watch-retailed-by-bulgari 30030: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-9/reference-30030-a-pink-gold-skeletonized-minute Only Wrist: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/229790 https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/226230
#98
July 6 · 1 hr 25 min
Episode 98: Third-Generation Independents, an Introduction
Over the last five years, independent watchmaking has blossomed. This week, Erik & Max make an introduction to some names that have begun in recent years and are off to a promising start. Conversations include the basic framework and some thoughts on Clegeur, Pierre, Phimphrachanh, Birchall, Claeys, the Bernhards, Hazemann & Monnin, Lass, FaH, Mineroci, and even Bonniksen. Cleguer: https://cleguer.com/en-gb https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cleguer-debuts-the-inspiration-one-with-a-proprietary-innate-escapement https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/05/cleguer-inspiration-one-review.html https://revolutionwatch.com/mathieu-cleguer-makes-his-debut-with-the-inspiration-one-souscription/ Stéphane Pierre: https://stephanepierre.com https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-stephane-pierre-limpetrant https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/04/stephane-pierre-l-impetrant.html Dann Phimphrachanh: https://www.instagram.com/dann.phimphrachanh/?hl=en https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/08/dann-phimphrachanh-profile.html https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/an-afternoon-with-dann-phimphrachanh https://sfwatchlover.substack.com/p/an-exclusive-profile-of-dann-phimphrachanh Alan Birchall: https://www.a-birchall.com https://monochrome-watches.com/portrait-alan-birchall-independent-watchmaker-piece-d-essai-no-00-artisanal-watchmaking/ https://www.isochrono.com/p/inside-tajimi-watching-a-handmade Kallinich Claeys: https://www.kallinichclaeys.com/en https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/a-visit-to-glashuttes-newest-independent L’Atelier Bernhard: https://www.instagram.com/l_atelier_bernard/?hl=en https://monochrome-watches.com/portrait-atelier-bernard-the-owl-bernard-van-ormelingen-bernard-braboretz-independent-watchmaking-duplex-escapement-interview/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/latelier-bernard-owl-duplex.html Hazemann & Monnin: https://hazemann-monnin.ch/en/index.html https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-hazemann-and-monnin Christian Lass: https://www.instagram.com/christian_lass/ https://christianlass.dk Fam al Hut: https://www.famalhut.com/en/index.html Mineroci: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/one-to-watch-mineroci Bonniksen Le Carrousel: https://monochrome-watches.com/announcing-naissance-une-montre-4-carrousel-project-bonniksen-aeon-foundation-news/ Only Wrist: http://www.hajimeasaoka.com/timepieces_chrinograph_EN.html https://monochrome-watches.com/just-because-logan-kuan-rao-double-detent-escapement-prototype-unique-piece-chinese-indepenent-watchmaker/ https://hairspring.com/products/701-011-pour-le-merite-tourbillon-pink-gold https://thekeystone.com/products/audemars-piguet-platinum-jump-hour-minute-repeater-watch-ref-25723
#97
June 26 · 1 hr
Episode 97: Our Unpopular Opinions
While prior episodes have covered your hot takes, this week’s discussion sees Erik & Max dive into a few controversial views of their own. From undisclosed ebauches in independent work today to silicon going widespread, or moonphase accuracy across to 6538s, there’s a lot to unpack here. University of Utah Hot on Journe?: https://shorturl.at/cSCXN 6538 at Sotheby’s: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches/reference-5510-big-crown-submariner-a-stainless Petermann Bédat 2941: https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html Pinaud Chronograph: https://www.sylvain-pinaud.com/the-monopoussoir-chronograph/ LeComte: https://monochrome-watches.com/florent-lecomte-a-recently-discovered-gem-of-independent-watchmaking/ A bit on Akrivia and MHC/BNB Concept: https://revolutionwatch.com/the-three-kings-of-independent-watchmaking/ Famous Lange Service 17K Bill: https://www.reddit.com/r/ALangeSohne/comments/1gmdmha/17k_service_bill/ 3970: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3970ep-small-hallmark-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum 3940: https://hairspring.com/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinum Auctions Primer: https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/buying-watch-auction-guide 881101/01 Clapton: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/881101-01-clapton-universal-geneve-tri-compax Patek’s March to Silicon: https://collectability.com/learn/patek-philippe-advanced-research-made-simple/ Rolex Silicon: https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-dynapulse-escapement-in-depth-technical-explanation-5hz-calibre-7135-syloxi-hairspring-review/ A Great Moonphase Read: https://jackforster.substack.com/p/challenge-to-watchmakers-whos-up Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/h11-central-balance-blue-dial-pink-gold https://hairspring.com/products/insight-micro-rotor-titanium https://hairspring.com/products/2526j-calatrava-frecerro-dial-yellow-gold https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/
#96
June 9 · 1 hr 24 min
Episode 96: Q&A (Pt. 8)
This month’s Q&A went all over the map. Erik & Max answer the Ferrari Luce equivalent from the Holy Trinity, market updates, if Cartier hype has passed, the one watch collection, and the greatest neo-vintage values today. Links Mentioned: Arkansas: https://crystalbridges.org 6105G: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/6105g-001 5170: https://hairspring.com/products/chronograph-black-dial-white-gold 5172: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5172g-hand-wound-chronograph-photos Tamara Ralph: https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/ap-x-tamara-ralph.html 15202: https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A.html VC 56: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-fiftysix-self-winding VC Quai de L’Île: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-quai-de-lile-in-steel Cabaret: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-cabaret-tourbillon-in-honeygold Saxonia: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-saxonia/ NYC Watch Guy’s Analysis: https://medium.com/@nycwatchguys/the-bull-case-for-watches-9a56450baf1e @Niccoloy: https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/ @Young.Brando: https://www.instagram.com/young.brando/ WatchCharts (Hit Max Timeline): https://watchcharts.com/watches/indexes?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email 5251 Portofino: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5251-iwc-portofino-moonphase UJ: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-8-yellow-gold 5020: https://www.phillips.com/article/133156594/patek-philippe-5020-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-guide John Shaeffer: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/205999 https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/201306 Tank Monopoussoir: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/cartier-cpcp-2846-tank-monopoussoir Hamatic: https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-moritz-grossmann-hamatic-argente-pendulum-winding-calibre-106-saxony-glashutte-rose-gold-specs-price-review/ 1463: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/122018 5070: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/saatchi-salmon-dial-5070g-014-patek-philippe-chronograph PLM: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/ 1675: https://hairspring.com/products/1675-gilt-exclamation-dial-gmt-master-steel Odysseus: https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel Deadbeat Seconds: https://thedeadbeatseconds.substack.com Grantland: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grantland Look at my *Expletive* Red Trousers: https://lookatmyfuckingredtrousers.blogspot.com 1815 Thin Honey: https://hairspring.com/products/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honey-gold 5740: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar 5270: https://hairspring.com/products/5270r 5374: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5374g-001 Independent Picks: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-artisans https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-38-prussian-blue-white-gold-1 https://www.phillips.com/detail/petermann-bedat/205470 2RE: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ferdinand-berthoud-fb-2re-1 Handmade: https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/01/greubel-forsey-hand-made-1-review.html 6238: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1 Sports Betting: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584544 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584458 https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/231677 https://www.phillips.com/detail/auffret-paris/231274 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/chronometre-bleu-reference-cb-a-tantalum https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584401 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/sport-auto-blue-titanium https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel https://hairspring.com/products/1655-explorer-ii-steel
#95
May 25 · 1 hr 37 min
Episode 95: A. Langer One (Pt. 2, 2000-Present)
Part 2 of Episode 66 has finally come to pass. This episode chronicles the notable history of A. Lange & Söhne from acquisition by Richemont and Günter Blümlein’s passing in 2001 until the present. This episode targets key folks involved, notable successes and releases, stories/lore often told, and basics of leadership. We hope this episode brings some learning and a few fun facts along the way. Links Mentioned: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/manufacture/news-and-events/gunter-blumlein The Richemont Umbrella: https://www.richemont.com Fabian Krone Interview: https://people.timezone.com/mdisher/lange/fkint/fkinterview.htm Anthony de Haas Interviews: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/history-a-lange-sohne-anthony-de-hass https://revolutionwatch.com/lange-sohne-anthony-de-haas-zeitwerk-minute-repeater/ Tino Bobe Interviews: https://yachtstyle.co/a-lange-sohnes-tino-bobe-on-keeping-time-with-tradition/ https://escapementmagazine.com/articles/tino-bobe-a-lange-sohne/ https://www.luxuo.com/leaders/watches-leaders/securing-the-future.html Krone-Era Watches: Lange 1 Tourbillon: https://hairspring.com/products/704-025-lange-1-tourbillon-platinum https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-tourbillon/ Langematik QP: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/310-021-langematik-perpetual-calendar-yellow-gold Double Split: https://hairspring.com/products/404-032-double-split https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-double-split-rattrapante/ Tourbograph PLM: https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/141658 Zeitwerk Story: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinum-1 https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-zeitwerk/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/10/lange-zeitwerk-guide.html Wilhelm Schmid Interviews: https://oracleoftime.com/a-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid-interview/ https://www.watchpro.com/the-big-interview-a-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid/ https://squaremile.com/watches/wilhelm-schmid-ceo-lange-sohne-interview/ https://www.watchonista.com/articles/interviews/chat-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid-about-numbers-community-and-luxury-retail Datograph U/D: https://hairspring.com/products/405-035-datograph-up-down-platinum Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-tourbillon-lumen Grand Comp: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/grand-complication https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-grand-complication/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-a-lange-sohne-grand-complication 2015 New Manufacture: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-opens-new-manufactory-building Triple Split: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-triple-split-introducing Odysseus: https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-odysseus/ Distribution: https://revolutionwatch.com/a-lange-sohne-salons-boutiques/ Honey Gold: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/honey-gold-watches Lumen: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/lumen Handwerkskunst: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/handwerkskunst-editions Favorites: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-dubail-white-gold https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/176317 https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/tourbograph-perpetual-honeygold-homage-to-f-a-lange/tourbograph-perpetual-honeygold-homage-to-f-a-lange-in-750-honeygold-706-050 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-i-2/lange-1-leon-martens-maastricht-reference-101-047 https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/153737 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/403-035-datograph-first-generation-platinum https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/167254
#94
May 14 · 1 hr 19 min
Episode 94: Dissecting an Auction Catalogue & Sports Betting
Erik & Max pick apart the three big sales happening this spring, to help give a framework for analyzing collectors' behavior, see what’s changing in the market, and have some fun. Then, the game is on as five lots are each picked with a bet value to be achieved estimated (this was recorded May 5) ahead of time—and an over/under from the opposing host. Plus, an Only Wrist for the 90s lovers. Links Mentioned: The Three Sales in Question: https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH080226 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601 https://www.christies.com/en/auction/rare-watches-31080/ The PLM Result over 1M: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-4/tourbillon-pour-le-merite-reference-701-007-a Prototype Urban Jurgensen: https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jürgensen/231710 Prototype AP: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584403 https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH080226 Sports Betting: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584544 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584458 https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/231677 https://www.phillips.com/detail/auffret-paris/231274 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/chronometre-bleu-reference-cb-a-tantalum https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584401 Highest Hammer Relative to Estimate: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/232384 https://www.phillips.com/detail/f.p.-journe/229223 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191622 Wildcard That Could be 1/3 or 3X Estimate: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584504 Case Patina: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191674 Cleaned 1526: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191577 5007P: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/232263 Only Wrist: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6139093 https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/passion-time-important-private-collection-watches-timepieces-online/audemars-piguet-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-royal-oak-moon-phases-2237/201101
#93
April 29 · 1 hr 3 min
Episode 93: Winners & Blunders 2026
Watch & Wonders has come and past, but what of this year’s releases might be enduring? And what, if anything, was a complete mistake? This is the Winners & Blunders of 2026, where for every pick in the top and worst category, Erik & Max also include an alternate vintage pick to consider. Links Mentioned: Winners: Streamliner 34: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-and-cie-introduces-the-streamliner-two-hands-in-28mm-and-34mm Streamliner QP: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-moser-streamliner-perpetual-concept Alternate: https://hairspring.com/products/25594st-royal-oak-day-date-moonphase-steel Saxonia Annual 36: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-downsizes-the-saxonia-annual-calendar-to-36mm Alternate: https://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-gold Lange 1 Tourbillon QP Lumen: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-lange-1-tourbillon-perpetual-calendar-lumen Precious OP: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-goes-full-solid-gold-in-34mm-and-28mm-ref-124205-and-276208 Alternate: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch Enamel Daytona: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-reference-126502-in-rolesium-with-enamel-dial-and-grey-bezel Alternate: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/128046 VC: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-ultra-thin-2500v https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-rose https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-dual-time-cardinal-points Alternate: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/225008 RRCHF: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rexhep-rexhepi-chronograph-flyback-rrchf Alternate: https://hairspring.com/products/414-028-1815-chronograph-white-gold Blunders: 6105G: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-6105g Alternate: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2577r-calatrava-enamel-dial-pink-gold https://hairspring.com/products/anywhere-aurora-titanium IWC Vertical Drive: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-heads-for-space-with-the-pilots-venturer-vertical-drive-with-spaceflight-qualification-from-vast https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/about-us/unvrs/freak-2001 https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/jaeger-lecoultre-amvox-q192t440-10-10-jlc-yzr0es Alternate: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/105-012-66-omega-speedmaster Cartier: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-celebrates-10-editions-of-prive-with-six-new-editions Alternate: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2396-cartier-cpcp-monopoussoir JLC Master Control Chronometre: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-chronometre-a-new-integrated-bracelet-sport-watch-in-three-model Alternate: https://www.berneron.ch/quantieme-annuel-black https://hairspring.com/products/25654st-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-salmon-dial-steel Only Wrist: Grahame Fowler: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-thirteen-milsubs-of-grahame-fowler https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-grahame-fowler MN: https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel Langematik: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-langematik/
#92
April 22 · 1 hr 10 min
Episode 92: Pub Trivia
Collectors love a good fun fact, unknown history, or unexpected trivia. This episode is full of all of that. From co-axial Nautilus and a Rolex QP to Houdini and Carl Jung, it’s all here. We guarantee, regardless of just how educated you are, there’ll be a fact in here you won’t have known prior. A huge thank you to all of you, the audience, for contributing to this knowledge base. Plus, and Only Wrist for a train conductor. Links Mentioned: Early Daniels Escapements in Normal Watches: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/worlds-first-wristwatch-co-axial-escapement-london-science-museum-patek https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/george-daniels-so-l12313/lot.21.html Scott Carpenter History: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/scott-carpenters-breitling-cosmonaute-the-first-swiss-wristwatch-worn-in-space Artemis II Watches: https://www.watchesofespionage.com/blogs/woe-dispatch/watches-artemis-ii-moon-omega-speedmaster-breiting Walter Lange: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-homage-to-walter-lange/ Round Pusher Vichet 2499: https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/12/patek-philippe-2499-vichet-case-round-pushers.html Theft of the Marie Antoinette: https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/the-time-thief-who-stole-106-rare-clocks-in-a-daring-heist-180981979/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naaman_Diller Rolex QP: https://revolutionwatch.com/rare-finds-rolex-perpetual-calendar-oysterquartz/ https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-prototype-oysterquartz-lot-329-378 (Most Recent Sale) *Modified Datejust QP was allegedly Muller not Dubuis, we messed up! 1921 Vacheron True Heritage: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-original-vacheron-constantin-american-1921-from-1919 New 1921: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-rose Reconstructed in Traditional Method: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/this-piece-unique-vacheron-is-proof-that-sometimes-they-do-make-em-like-they-used-to HR Ekegren: https://obwcollection.com/products/h-r-ekegren-minute-repeater-wristwatch 1735: https://www.watchprosite.com/blancpain/more-on-the-iconic-blancpain-1735/4.1185931.9517651/ Piaget Gouverneur Grande Sonnerie: https://www.phillips.com/article/158023235/when-fp-journe-worked-with-piaget 4113: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/133343?fromSearch=4113 Offshore: https://www.phillips.com/article/37249232/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-offshore-the-man-who-made-it-and-the-watch-that-honours-it Carl Jung: https://monochrome-watches.com/a-most-dangerous-watch-company-iwc-and-carl-jung/ IWC 3519: https://revolutionwatch.com/special-service-the-iwc-porsche-design-ref-3519-amag/ The Most Confusing Broad Arrow: https://www.casowatches.com/catalogo/seamaster-ref-14755-61/ Roubert-Houdin: https://www.horloger.net/purchase-sales/mystery-clocks/74-robert-houdin-triple-mystery-clock/ https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-enchanting-allure-of-cartiers-mystery-clocks 6062 Cosmograph Ad: https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2012/03/rolex-cosmograph-moonphase-1957.html#/page/2 5738/1R: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-1r-001 Only Wrist: https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/125546 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic-1958 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-past-present-and-future-of-the-rolex-milgauss https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/189354?fromSearch=1019
#91
April 10 · 1 hr 6 min
Episode 91: Enamel 101
A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conversations about the topic of enamel dials are all in here. Links Mentioned: Peter Henlein Nuremberg Eggs: https://quillandpad.com/2014/12/15/the-worlds-oldest-watch-a-peter-henlein-mystery-from-1505-solved/ Jean Toutin: https://www.themagazineantiques.com/article/seventeenth-century-french-enameled-watches-walters-art-gallery/ Miklos Merczel JLC: https://quillandpad.com/2014/07/23/jaeger-lecoultres-art-of-in-house-enameling/ Daniel Quare: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Quare Grand Feu: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadrans https://hairspring.com/products/5370p-split-seconds-chronograph-platinum-1 https://hairspring.com/products/tourbillon-double-spiral-besancon-certified-white-gold_43241 Cloisonné: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080121/33 https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/04/patek-philippe-world-time-cloisonne-605-hu-de-world-map-pink-gold.html https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/07/why-are-vintage-cloisonne-enamel-dial-watches-collectible.html https://www.watchonista.com/articles/events/prix-gaia-2019-suzanne-rohr-craftmanship-creation-category https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/portraits/1004113605-the-multiple-talents-of-enamellist-anita-porchet.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzPx_hj6tCc Champlevé: https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-krayon-anywhere-for-only-watch-2021/ https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/watches-with-an-enamel-dial https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-51g-001 Flinqué: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/4997-200g-001 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/life-is-a-cabaret-lange-handwerkskunst-tourbillon-that-is https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/05/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-28-te-in-enamel.html https://www.acollectedman.com/products/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-ii-platinum Engraved Enamel: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/engraved-enamel-why-some-dials-never https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/qin-gan-independent-watchmaker-from-china Favorites: 2526: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold 6101: https://le-monde-edmond.com/enamel_rolex_dials/ 2523 Gobbi: https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/11/patek-philippe-2523-worldtime-most-expensive-watch-sold.html 2699 Constellation: https://thekeystone.com/products/omega-yellow-gold-constellation-geneva-observatory-cloisonne-watch 3428P: https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/ 1415: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/112503?fromSearch=1415 5231: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5231g-001 Only Wrist: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar/ https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-sincere-singapore-ref-112-049-limited-edition-64/145895
#90
March 17 · 43 min
Episode 90: Kari Voutilainen
This week Erik & Max are thrilled to be joined by legend of independent watchmaking Kari Voutilainen. We explore the early days of branching out on his own, what makes him excited in watchmaking, the challenges of being independent, why big brands don’t innovate, and of course how things are going reviving Urban Jürgensen. It was an honor and delight to capture Mr. Voutilainen’s thoughts on watchmaking this point in his career, which we hope you enjoy. Links Mentioned: Voutilainen’s Early Story: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/watchmaking-journey-kari-voutilainen The 2013 V-8R with Power Reserve: https://watchesbysjx.com/2013/04/baselworld-2013-voutilainen-v-8r.html Comblémine SA: https://comblemine.ch Observatoire: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire-1 Urban Jürgensen Relaunch: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025 Pratt Oval Pocket Watch: https://www.phillips.com/article/149733060/derek-pratts-oval-pocket-watch-voutilainen-urban-jurgensen-phillips-reloaded Watch Mr Voutilainen is Googling Recently: https://www.phillips.com/detail/andreas-strehler/190853 Last Watch which Impressed Mr Voutilainen in Person: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/zeitwerk/zeitwerk-decimal-strike-honeygold https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-gets-a-34mm-case The 3 Watch Roll: https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/11/breguet-1890-four-minute-tourbillon-sothebys.html https://quillandpad.com/2016/07/21/let-eat-cake-intriguing-story-marie-antoinette-legendary-breguet-pocket-watch-no-160/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2017/09/the-fake-rivalry-that-created-the-worlds-most-expensive-timepiece.html Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/16528-daytona-floating-cosmograph-gold-dial-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectible https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/885104-01-universal-geneve-space-compax-1
#89
March 11 · 1 hr 28 min
Episode 89: Retroactive Bidding Circa 2016
Erik & Max time travel to 2016 to attempt to spend various budgets this week. It’s retroactive bidding, with the best 10k, 50k, and 200k picks all included. From cloissoné Polerouters to Patek bracelets and 30k Resonance, this one was a blast. Plus and Only Wrist that’s relevant if you drive motorcycles for UberEats. It’s worth opening all the tabs linked for this exercise. Links Mentioned: https://www.watchpro.com/billions-wiped-off-the-value-of-breitling/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-rolex-and-cartier-in-another-league-a-deep-dive-on-whos-making-gains-and-whos-feeling-pain-in-t 10K and Under: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993005 https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/100180 https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/quick-study-omega-seamaster-chronographs https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-n09593/lot.52.html https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/iwc-ref-r-816-ad-lot-302-11 https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/99735 https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaeger-lecoultre/98071 50K and Under: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5992999 https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/a-lange-sohne-lot-300-164 https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.275.html https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6003298 https://www.phillips.com/detail/universal/101404 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028350 https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.7.html 200K and Under: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6003385 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028355 https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-n09593/lot.272.html https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/watches-l16053/lot.140.html https://www.phillips.com/detail/breguet/97620 https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/97159 Unlimited: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028459 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/100888 https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.317.html https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/97683 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/97817 Wildcard: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5976969?ldp_breadcrumb=back https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/101552 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/145-005-ultraman-omega-seamaster-321
#88
February 20 · 57 min
Episode 88: Audemars Piguet Beyond the Royal Oak
Erik & Max venture into the side of the AP back catalogue far too often forgotten and overlooked: non-RO vintage. From the Clover to the 1533 or Star Wheel Repeaters and restomod Cartier, the depth of value that exists in AP’s posterity is immense. If you’ve ever wondered what the first Tuscan ref is, who A l’Emeraude is, or what a Disco Volante has in common with today’s independents—listen in. Plus an only wrist for a Patek AD. Links Mentioned: 5516: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendar John Shaeffer Collecting Guide: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/buying-selling-collecting-john-shaeffer-repeaters 25881 Explainer: https://singaporewatchclub.com/blogs/articles/john-shaeffer-ap-s-best-kept-secret 25881 Purple Dial: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-7/repetition-minutes-john-schaeffer-reference-25881 Ceramic-Link Bamboo ref. 66192 & 66172: https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--cd79969e-bfab-495f-8049-3a18d16e361a/ap-chronicles-image.webp https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/audemars-piguet-bamboo-ref-66172ba-gold-diamond-set-quartz-wristwatch-24/165533 5072: https://www.db1983.com/product-page/audemars-piguet-5072st-vzssc-37mm-1955 5503: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-the-archives-of-audemars-piguet https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-vacheron-minute-repeater-at-christies (Scroll Down Here) 831: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/183251?fromSearch=831 Collaboration Work with Cartier: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080515/233 (Erik was Wrong, Henry is in fact American not English!) https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier-and-audemars-piguet/221688?fromSearch=audemars%20piguet%20cartier&searchPage=1 1533: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/90520 https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/122598 25681PT ‘Clover’: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/quantieme-perpetuel-clover-asprey 5661 / ref. 25661 Tuscan: https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetuel-tuscan/ 25557: https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/140_carousel16_2v2 (Rightmost) https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/reference-25557ba-a-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar 5548: https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetual-automatique AP Calibre 2003: https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/calibre/Calibre-2003 5093BC: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gubelin-signed-5093bc-audemars-piguet-disco-volante A l’Emeraude QP: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080424/145 (Which Inspired this https://monochrome-watches.com/collectors-series-nopstar83-audemars-piguet-edward-piguet-ultra-thin-skeleton-perpetual-25734or/) 5740: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar 6196P: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generation 5270: https://hairspring.com/products/5270r-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-pink-gold
#87
February 11 · 1 hr 10 min
Episode 87: Our Ultimate 3 Watch Collections
The title says it all here, with one twist. First, Erik & Max guess each other’s ideal 3 watch collections—a reverse grail collection built for each other. Then it’s the actual current 3-watch grail collection, no holds barred. Many watches are discussed, few make the grade. You all asked, many times, here we are. Plus, an Only Wrist for a Houston electrician. Links Mentioned: 404.032: https://hairspring.com/products/404-032-double-split 6105: https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-25/lot-272 Early Datejust Reading: https://le-monde-edmond.com/datejust-a-closer-look-at-a-rolex-icon-2/ Clapton 5004R: https://www.phillips.com/detail/PATEK-PHILIPPE/HK080216/1011 2497G: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/160474 345.0809: https://www.omegaspeedymoon.com 403.041 Yellowjacket: https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080320/240 Black 5004G: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/193506 2915: https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel Pisa: https://www.phillips.com/article/121350662/a-lange-and-sohne-datograph-pisa 414.028: https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/181134 Bao Dai: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/90349 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bảo_Đại WMT: https://www.phillips.com/detail/wmt-(watch-experimental-unit)/202955 YG Brass Resonance: https://hairspring.com/products/chronometre-a-resonance-brass-movement-platinum Yosuke & Dufour: https://www.instagram.com/p/DScn5Qaklh4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== RRCCII: https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two Laurent Ferrier Phillips: https://hairspring.com/products/hommage-ii-for-phillips-steel 5516: https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/140_carousel03_05v2 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5100-rolex-texano https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3770-patek-philippe-nautellipse
#86
January 29 · 1 hr 17 min
Episode 86: 3940 and Onwards, The Patek Philippe ‘Pure’ Perpetual Calendar Pt. 2
It is finally time to dissect and opine on the 3940. Erik & Max break down series with some nuances you may not expect. This includes hallmarks, Singer vs Stern dials, Series breakdown, and thoughts on what truly matters here. And that’s just the first half of the episode, with the second dedicated to covering the vast majority of all major references since and what to pay attention to. It’s the second half Patek Philippe of the ‘pure’ QP bloodline this week. Links Mentioned: Zeitwerk Press Photo: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/zeitwerk/zeitwerk-honeygold-lumen Technical Review of 240 Q: https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/buyers-guides/technical-review-of-the-mythical-240-caliber-from-patek-philippe First Series 3940: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191571 Evolution of Just First Series Dials Alone: https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/the-three-dials-of-1st-series-patek-philippe-ref-3940 Early Second Series 3941: https://hairspring.com/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-gold Late Second Series: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/143107 Third Series: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinum Beyer First Series: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/183202 Interesting ‘Syrup’ 24-Hour indicator patina: https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/sales-corner/p/1992-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-3940-platinum-collector-set Roman 3940: https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/3940g-025-roman-dial-change-to-3940g-013-classic--value-impact/11.1590521.15856176/ 3945 (Soldered Bracelet): https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/215848?fromSearch=3945 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6102706 Saatchi History: https://www.phillips.com/article/144079689/patek-philippe-saatchi-edition-london-2015-grand-exhibition-about 5039: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5039g-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar 5040: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5040p-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar 5049P: https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/latest-addition--ref-5049p/11.1467591.13835786/ 5136: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/195786 5139: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/210732?fromSearch=5139 5050: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/224366?fromSearch=5050 5059: https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-officers-case-perpetual-calendar-ref-5059g/ 5140: https://mrwatchley.com/products/patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-5140g 5940: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5940g 5327: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5327g-001 5320: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5320g-perpetual-calendar-introducing 5236: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5236p-001-in-line-perpetual-calendar-a-first-for-patek-introducing Pocket Watch 725: https://thekeystone.com/products/patek-philippe-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-pocket-watch-725-2 5740: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/16018-datejust-birch-wood-dial-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/products/1655-explorer-ii-steel
#85
January 17 · 1 hr 22 min
Episode 85: Hot Takes & Resolutions
Are regulator dials ugly? Are Lange a credible threat to Patek’s repeaters? What’s the ideal Bond Villain watch? Why do so many watch professionals seem like they don’t even like watches? Erik & Max put out a call to you for your hot takes and controversial opinions. Some were lukewarm, but many were truly controversial and made for excellent discussion. If hot takes aren’t to your taste, this episode concludes with resolutions in watches for the new year. Links Mentioned: Roman Numerals Discussed: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/19019-rolex-oysterquartz-day-date-1 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/HK080423/880 https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire-1 5374: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5374p-patek-philippe-minute-repeater-perpetual-calendar RD2: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-rd2-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-hands-on 5327G: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5327g-001 90s IWC: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/heres-why-im-so-into-90s-iwc-right History of the Calatrava: https://monochrome-watches.com/history-of-the-patek-philippe-calatrava-part-1-reference-96/ Regulator Dial: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/laurent-ferrier-micro-rotor-regulateur-ecole 70s Longines: https://www.fratellowatches.com/buying-guide-the-best-longines-watches-from-the-1970s/ 13ZN: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectible 116500: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-daytona-ref-116500ln-review Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/ur-210s-full-metal-jacket-steel-titanium https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/ https://www.hytwatches.com
#84
January 6 · 1 hr 44 min
Episode 84: A Year in Auctions, with a Market Update
The year of 2026 is upon us, but it’s worth pausing to look at some of the great and atrocious things which sold. This episode covers a state of the market through a review of the entire year at auctions, noting specific examples. Erik & Max discuss watches that they wish they’d had the funds to buy, opportunities missed, problem watches/things they’d stay away from, value buys, unreasonable results, and our wildcards. Plus, an Only Wrist for the most significant chronographs of all time. Links Mentioned: Watches We Wish We’d Had the Funds to Buy: https://www.phillips.com/detail/heuer/191665 https://www.phillips.com/detail/philippe-dufour/226566 https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/224005 https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-67 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/reference-6538-submariner-big-crown-james-bond-a https://www.phillips.com/detail/voutilainen/223968 https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/lange-1/little-lange-1/little-lange-1-in-750-white-gold-181-038 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-3/reference-2438-1-a-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar Opportunities We Missed: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6534101 https://www.phillips.com/detail/piaget/224987 https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-70 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6534094 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/216658 https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/213832 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/reference-ba-145-022-69-speedmaster-gus-grissom-a Problem Watches: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/216213 https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-25 https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/216432 https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-48 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6558481 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6567932 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-part-i-ge2501/reference-6034-a-pink-gold-chronograph-wristwatch https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6567913 https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaeger-le-coultre/225242 Values: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/223633 https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-7 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/fine-watches-6/reference-3147-carrera-dato-45-a-stainless-steel https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/reference-404-032-saxonia-double-split-a-pink-gold https://www.phillips.com/detail/breguet/210819 Unreasonable Numbers: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/224435 https://hairspring.com/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-gold https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/224804 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/octa-chronograph-ruthenium-a-limited-edition Wildcard: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-3/reference-3945-dore-a-yellow-gold-perpetual https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-237 https://flightbirds.net/publio-magini-the-sistema-magini/ (History of the Magini Trip) https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/reference-6100-dragon-an-exquisite-and-rare-yellow Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/5970r-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-pink-gold https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/saatchi-5070p-patek-philippe-chronograph
#83
Dec 21, 2025 · 1 hr 23 min
Episode 83: The Balance Cocks of 2025
Yes, it’s year end. And the only awards show that anyone cares about is back in action. It’s the Balance Cocks second annual outing this week; this show will cover the most beautiful and ugliest watches of the year, the greatest new calibre, the strongest value, the watch which will lose you the most money after buying it, and far more. Then we have the big ones, our favorites and the ‘Absolute Cock-Up of the Year’ Grand Prizes. Plus, an Only Wrist of an oil rig worker who likes dressing to the nines. Links Mentioned: Most Beautiful Watch Nominations: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygold https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mbandfs-special-project-one https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-hand-made-2 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-in-depth-roger-smith-ref-6 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-handwerkskunst The Ugliest Watch Nominations: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-speedmaster-moonphase-meteorite https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-x-fragment-design-glassbox-carrera-is-a-masterclass-in-collaboration https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/dennison-leans-into-peak-70s-glam-and-design-with-new-ald-dual-time https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-fp-journe-chronometre-furtif https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-audemars-piguet-rd5 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-type-xx-chronographe-2075bh The Greatest Calibre Nominations: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/berneron-unveils-details-of-second-collection-the-quantieme-annuel https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-1815-tourbillon-in-platinum-now-with-a-black-grand-feu-enamel-dial https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-petermann-bedat-1825 https://www.breguet.com/250/en/experimentale-1/ The Greatest Value Nominations: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolexs-new-pastel-oyster-perpetual-dials-a-soothing-evolution-of-color https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-a-lange-sohne-1815-34mm https://baltic-watches.com/en/collections/watches https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-omega-speedmaster-first-omega-in-space The Greatest Depreciator Nominations: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/twenty4/7340-1r-010 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-reveals-its-most-complicated-chiming-watch-to-date-with-the-luc-grand-strike https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-universal-tribute-chronographs https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/07/seiko-credor-goldfeather-tourbillon-gbcf999.html Worst Ad of 2025 Nominations: https://imgur.com/a/yteGrrI (Phillips Horse Thing) https://imgur.com/a/pD9Prfa (Urban Jurgensen) New Independent Entrant Nominations: https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/latelier-bernard-owl-duplex.html Brand That Evolved Most Nominations: https://www.berneron.ch The Absolute Cock-Up Nominations: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-audemars-piguet-rd5 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dweller https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-universal-tribute-chronographs Grand Prize Nominations: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygold https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-brings-back-the-lange-1-daymatic-with-a-honeygold-touch Only Wrist: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/87538 https://www.europeanwatch.com/watch/audemars-piguet-vzss-vintage-dress-watch-vzss-rare-18k-yg-manual-62560 https://mimandcroket.com/project/rare-audemars-piguet-cal-13vzss/ https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorer https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1-of-26-london-racing-green-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-1931

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