
Why the Skincare Industry Is Failing Melanin-Rich Skin
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The skincare industry has been leaving melanin-rich skin out of the conversation for too long. A board-certified dermatologist is here to change that.
In this episode of Face It, Bari sits down with Dr. Adeline Kikam — board-certified dermatologist, founder of Skin Inclusive Dermatology, and the leading voice behind Brown Skin Derm — to cut through the misinformation around melanin-rich skin and explore what inclusive dermatology actually looks like in practice. From the sunscreen myth that refuses to die to the real dangers of the wrong laser on darker skin tones, Dr. Kikam brings clinical expertise and lived experience to a conversation that's equal parts educational and deeply personal.
We cover:
• What melanin actually is — and why we all have the same number of melanocytes
• The key differences between darker and lighter skin tones that change everything about how you treat your skin
• Why the belief that melanin-rich skin does not require sun protection is not only a misconception but a genuinely harmful one
• How to choose the right sunscreen for melanin-rich skin — and why tinted mineral sunscreen is the most effective choice
• Why hyperpigmentation is so persistent in skin of color and how to actually treat it
• The difference between hyperpigmentation and scarring — and why confusing them leads to the wrong treatment
• How to build a basic dermatologist-approved skincare routine for melanin-rich skin
• Why chemical exfoliation beats physical exfoliation — and how to pick the right one for your skin type
• What to know before getting a chemical peel or laser treatment if you have darker skin
• What microneedling actually does and why it's one of the safest and most effective procedures for skin of color
• The Black-owned and melanin-focused brands Dr. Kikam has on her radar right now
• A full product lightning round — love it, leave it, or be cautious — on the most popular hyperpigmentation treatments
• Why skin cancer in melanin-rich skin is often caught too late — and what you can do about it
• What inspired Dr. Kikam to start Brown Skin Derm and build a practice centered on inclusive care
• What she wishes the beauty and skincare industry would change about how it approaches skin of color
Watch now and let us know your thoughts in the comments.
No links were found in this episode’s notes.
- 0:00Intro
- 1:51Meet Dr. Kikam
- 2:12What Exactly Is Melanin?
- 4:40Differences Between Lighter and Darker Skin Tones
- 5:55The Sunscreen Myth: Does Melanin Rich Skin Still Need SPF?
- 8:03Why Is Hyperpigmentation So Common in Skin of Color?
- 9:21How to Treat Hyperpigmentation
- 11:31Preventative vs. Reactive: When Should You Start Treating?
- 13:07Hyperpigmentation vs. Scarring: Are They the Same?
- 14:14Dr. Kikam's Personal Skin Journey with Acne & Scarring
- 15:28Laser Treatments & What to Know Before Getting Them
- 16:47Are Actives Like Retinol & Vitamin C Safe for Melanin Rich Skin?
- 21:14What to Consider Before Getting Chemical Peels or Lasers
- 24:24What Is Micro Needling and What Does It Do for the Skin?
- 25:49Dermatologist-Approved Skincare Routine for Melanin Rich Skin
- 28:22Chemical vs. Physical Exfoliation: Which Is Better?
- 30:50What Inspired Dr. Kikam to Advocate for Skin of Color
- 34:34Skin Cancer in Melanin Rich Skin: What You Should Know
- 38:36Dr. Kikam's Personal Skin Struggles
- 40:31Inclusive Dermatology: Dr. Kikam's New Practice
- 43:32What's on Dr. Kikam's Derm Vanity
- 49:38Black Owned Brands for Melanin Rich Skin
- 50:33Lightning Round: Love It, Leave It or Be Cautious
- 58:18One Thing the Beauty Industry Needs to Change
- 1:00:52Where to Find Dr. Kikam