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Ecotextile Talks

MCL News and Media

Exclusive Podcasts that tackle the crucial environmental issues impacting today's global textile and clothing supply chains. Put together by the team that launched the pioneering Ecotextile News magazine back in 2007, we take listeners behind the scenes to reveal how we break the news and also provide deep dive Newscasts on sustainability, ethics, policy, retail, pollution and the carbon crisis engulfing our planet.

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English

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S7 · E7
September 25 · 25 min
Why GOTS is going beyond organic, and welcoming more fibres
Partner content made possible by Global Standards Host Philip Berman talks Global Standards Managing Director, Claudia Kirsten and its Fibers Lead, Jeffrey Timm, about the launch of its new Global Responsible Textile Standard, which goes beyond organic fibres. In this episode they explain: Why the organisation behind a 25-year-old organic standard decided to make the move, and discuss the structural shift inside Global Standards that made it possible What carries over from GOTS, and what doesn't Which fibres can't qualify; What it means for existing GOTS-certified companies, for blends, and for private label standards; and The tension between staying rigorous and having real market impact Links for more information: Overview of the standard: https://global-standards.org/our-standards/grts GRTS resources page — where the standard itself is published: https://global-standards.org/our-standards/grts/grts-resources
S7 · E6
August 24 · 20 min
Who pays for fashion's 'just transition'?
In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman speaks to Niall Maplesden, Director of The Knowledge Nexus, about the potential unintended consequences of the EU's Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). Niall recently explored the issue in Ecotextile News, asking whether policies promoting durable clothing, repair, reuse and circular textiles could affect order volumes for garment factories and their supply chains. Drawing on more than 35 years in the textile industry, Niall explains why any reduction in production could be felt beyond brands and tier-one suppliers, by smaller subcontractors, informal garment workers and, further upstream, cotton farmers. The discussion looks at the need for 'a just transition' for the people producing the world's clothes. Niall argues that, if the circular economy creates new work in sorting, reuse, repair and textile recycling, that investment should not be concentrated only in Europe. It should also help create jobs and infrastructure in major textile-producing countries, including Bangladesh, India and Pakistan, where the effects of changing demand may be most keenly felt. Key Topics Discussed: • The ESPR and durable clothing: How the EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation could reshape textile and apparel design. • Circular fashion and consumption: Could repair, reuse, resale and longer-lasting garments affect demand for new clothing? • Garment workers and supply chains: Why subcontractors, informal workers and satellite factories may be particularly exposed to changes in order volumes. • Cotton and fibre production: How reduced demand for virgin fibres could affect cotton farmers and textile-producing regions. • Textile EPR: Whether Extended Producer Responsibility fees could help fund circular-economy infrastructure and transition support. • Responsible purchasing: The role of brands in maintaining stable, fair supplier relationships as the apparel industry changes. • A just transition: How the environmental benefits of sustainable textiles can be shared more fairly across global fashion supply chains. This episode is brought to you by our partner PICVISA a Spanish machine-vision company that builds AI‑driven optical sorting systems for waste, including dedicated solutions for textile sorting and recycling. If you want to read Niall's original article
July 6 · 22 min
Fanning the flames of textile incineration. A good or a bad thing?
Textile sustainability strategist Shivam Gusain argues that the recycling sector has made incineration into a type of all-purpose villain, where the real barriers to recycling are much more practical. Our latest episode fans the flames around textile and clothing incineration and asks whether the textile recycling sector is too quick to blame incineration as the 'bad guy' when the bigger challenge is to build practical recycling capacity amid current waste management and climate pressures. Speaking to host Philip Berman, Gusain says the industry conversation is too focused on incineration as "the big hammering point" and on the idea that it is holding recycling back. The podcast also tackles the idea that incineration is always the worst option on health grounds, saying there is often confusion between controlled incineration and open burning of waste. This episode is brought to you by our partner PICVISA a Spanish machine-vision company that builds AI‑driven optical sorting systems for waste, including dedicated solutions for textile sorting and recycling. If you want to read Shivam's original article
S7 · E4
May 28 · 24 min
The Future of Sustainability: Harsh Saini on Cascale's Vision for a Greener Industry
*:first-child]:mt-0 [&>*:last-child]:mb-0"> *:first-child]:mt-0 [&>*:last-child]:mb-0"> In this exclusive interview, Philip Berman talks to Harsh Saini, the outgoing interim CEO of Cascale, to explore the organization's bold new chapter. Following a strategic rebrand and the implementation of a new governance structure, Cascale is evolving to meet the complex challenges of the modern consumer goods industry. Harsh discusses the "unfinished business" of sustainability and how Cascale is empowering its members to move beyond measurement into meaningful, large-scale action. From the acquisition of the Better Buying Institute to the launch of the Manufacturer's Climate Action Programme (MCAP), this conversation highlights the innovative tools and partnerships driving the industry toward a net-zero future. Key Topics Discussed: The Cascale Evolution: The strategic reasoning behind the rebrand and its expanded mission. Empowering Manufacturers: How MCAP is providing the roadmap for supply chain partners to set and achieve validated climate goals. A New Standard for Purchasing: Integrating Better Buying to foster deeper, data-driven collaboration between brands and suppliers. Global Collaboration: Partnering with organizations like the IFC to unlock the funding necessary for large-scale decarbonization. Strategic Leadership: Welcoming incoming CEO Ying McGuire to lead Cascale into its next phase of growth.
S7 · E3
April 20 · 21 min
Fake Fashion, Real Danger: The Hidden Toxins in Counterfeit Clothing
*:first-child]:mt-0 [&>*:last-child]:mb-0"> What's really inside that bargain fashion buy? Or that cheap new World Cup soccer strip? In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Steve Lamar, President and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), to discuss the results of new lab tests on counterfeit products, with some quite disturbing findings. He's not just talking about fake logos, but chemicals at unsafe levels and online marketplaces that may know more than they're letting on. Steve also shares what the industry is doing to fight back, and whether it's enough. This episode is brought to you by Andritz — global leaders in sustainable textile technology and textile recycling solutions. Learn more at andritz.com
S7 · E2
March 12 · 27 min
The Six-Month Breakthrough That Could Shake Up Sustainable Textiles
In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, we go inside the development of Lenzing's newest TENCEL™ Lyocell innovation - HV100 - a fibre engineered to deliver the texture, drape and authentic wash-down character of cotton which was created in record-breaking time! Johnny Truong and Julia Ulrich, from Lenzing, walk host Philip Berman through the market signals that they say sparked the idea, the technical hurdles of getting it into production, and why this fibre is opening doors for lyocell in denim's most coveted position - the warp. This podcast is brought to you in a paid partnership with Lenzing.
S7 · E1
March 5 · 28 min
Just $1000 a Year: Why Organic Cotton Farmers Deserve a Better Deal
At the moment, organic cotton farmers in countries such as India and Pakistan earn an average of just $1000 a year. Meanwhile, premiums are stacking up through the supply chain, brands are charging more at retail, but the people actually growing the crop see only a fraction of the value. In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Bart Vollaard from the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) about why he believes the current premium model isn't delivering for the farmers it's supposed to support, and reveals OCA's ambitious new strategy to change that. They discuss how a pioneering new farm fund could decouple farmer income from the unpredictability of market premiums, why OCA is broadening its focus beyond economics into the social and environmental realities of farming life, and what it will take to move organic cotton beyond its stubborn 2.5% share of global production. With 100,000 farmers across 70+ partners, OCA has the data and the relationships to make this work. But as Bart explains, it won't happen without more brands stepping up. Essential listening for anyone in sourcing, sustainability, or cotton supply chain leadership! Istanbul Organic Cotton Summit If you enjoyed this podcast why not check out others about cotton in our back catalogue... Detecting fraud in the organic cotton chain Are environmentalists to blame for cotton's declining share of the textile fibre market? Monitoring organic cotton from space
S6 · E16
Dec 10, 2025 · 33 min
Can fashion brands profit from their own second hand clothes?
In this episode Ecotextile Talks host Philip Berman speaks with ThredUp's Chief Strategy Officer Alon Rotem about the company's "resale as a service" model, from white-lable branded resale shops to multi-brand clean-out schemes that can turn underused wardrobes into store credit. They discuss what the real driver is for consumers, how ThredUp's distribution centres work at scale, why brands decide to plug into this infrastructure than trying to build it themselves. Circularity, policy and impact They also discuss what happens to the garments that do not sell, ThredUp's aftermarket partners, and what % of items entering its ecosystem end up without a second life. Philip and Alon also look at how California's new extended producer responsibility law could accelerate brand adoption of circular business models. AI and the road to 2029 Alon shares ThredUp's latest financial trajectory, the company's decade-long investment in technology, and how AI could transform the consumer experience of the resale sector, and potentially help them to finally return a profit after going public in 2021. Links mentioned in the podcast ThredUp's 2025 annual impact report ThredUp's quarterly financial filings British Vogue reporting on Yale's study about second-hand shoppers This episode is presented in association with Techtextil North America, the premier trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens, taking place from 4–6 August 2026 in Raleigh, North Carolina.
S6 · E15
Nov 18, 2025 · 26 min
Can Cleaner Chemistry Save Fashion – and Nature?
Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Frank Michel, CEO of the ZDHC Foundation, about why he thinks cleaner chemistry is becoming a hard ESG requirement rather than a nice-to-have for the global textile value chain. They explore how ZDHC has evolved from its original Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) focus into a broader nature-impact lens that links process chemistry to water quality, biodiversity, climate, and investor risk. Frank explains the thinking behind ZDHC's new impact framework, developed with environmental consultancy Quantis, which uses lifecycle assessment (LCA) and facility-level data to model how switching from conventional to ZDHC‑conformant chemicals can cut pollution indicators – with early pilots suggesting local reductions of 80–96% when compliant formulations replace non-compliant ones. They discuss why this work matters for ESG ratings, and why major rating agencies are now asking sharper questions about chemical risk, in an industry some investors increasingly compare to the fossil fuel one, from a risk perspective. https://www.roadmaptozero.com/zdhc-quantis-report-2025 How to subscribe to Ecotextile News https://www.ecotextile.com/membership-account/membership-levels/ Following Ecotextile Talks Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.
S6 · E14
Oct 22, 2025 · 31 min
Welcome to the World of Textile Technology - Singapore ITMA
In partnership with the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA), host Philip Berman takes listeners on a virtual journey to ITMA ASIA + CITME in Singapore with guests Alex Zucchi of CEMATEX, Jason Kent CEO of the BTMA, and Richard Slack of Fibre Extrusion Technology. In advance of the exhibition which starts on October 28 in Singapore, they explore how European and UK manufacturers are positioning themselves amid global shifts in textiles, from sustainability and circularity to the rise of technical textiles. Alex explains why ITMA's format remains unique. Jason highlights the UK's innovation-driven approach and the importance of Singapore as a neutral, accessible hub for Asian markets. And Richard offers insight into how technical textile machinery manufacturers are differentiating through R&D, partnerships with universities. Together they discuss how the textile machinery sector is responding to global supply challenges, and the growing demand for technical and high-value materials.
S6 · E13
Sep 2, 2025 · 34 min
Trump, Tariffs and US Textiles
Host Philip Berman talks to Kim Glas, President and CEO of the National Council of Textile Organizations, about the impact of Trump's tariffs on US textile manufacturing. Kim discusses the challenges posed by tariff unpredictability, including the effects on investment and supply chains, and the winners and losers in the industry. She highlights issues in machinery sourcing, the effect of high tariff rates on synthetics, and the role of major trade agreements like USMCA and CAFTA. Kim also addresses reshoring opportunities, and the strategic need for policy certainty to strengthen domestic production.
S6 · E12
Aug 21, 2025 · 28 min
Are environmentalists to blame for cotton's declining share of the textile fibre market?
Did environmental campaigners really contribute to a decline in cotton's global share of fibre production? Well, according to a rather punchy opinion piece in Cotton Grower a couple of months ago, the answer is a resounding, yes. The article claims that environmentalists have been intellectually dishonest and fed a binary narrative of cotton bad, synthetic fibers good….which created pressure from watchdogs and investor ESG mandates…which then led to brands moving away from conventional cotton to synthetics…and as a result we are now awash with cheap synthetics clothing. Now, this is a lot to leave at the door of environmentalists, and this polemic seemed a bit lop-sided, so to balance things out we thought it would be good to talk to Ecotextile News' dedicated Cotton Correspondent Simon Ferrigno, who has also done his fair share of environmental campaigner over the years. Do people like Simon have a case to answer for? In the podcast, we also turn the article's claim on its head - and ask whether the cotton industry should pay more attention to the many environmentalists' trying to make cotton production more sustainable and efficient. Relevant Articles from Ecotextile News Innovations discussed by Simon Ferrigno Food spray Avalo machine learning How to subscribe to Ecotextile News https://www.ecotextile.com/membership-account/membership-levels/ Following Ecotextile Talks Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.
S6 · E11
Aug 13, 2025 · 32 min
From Goats To Garments: Textile Exchange and the Responsible Mohair Journey
In this edition, made possible with the support of Textile Exchange, host Philip Berman is joined by its Chief Strategy Officer, Ashley Gill, and mohair farmer and textile producer Frances Van Hasselt. Frances is at the heart of mohair production in South Africa - a country that supplies more than 50% of that fiber used in the world's textile industry. She is involved in everything from farming her family land, home to 7,000 Angora goats, to landing high-end fashion deals. Her family has also received accolades, winning the Miyuki Award 10 years in a row - a Japanese prize for the best quality mohair, produced globally under the most sustainable practices. In the conversation, Frances explores how being rooted in the land shapes every aspect of her work. She also discusses the challenges and pride associated with local production, and along with Ashley, explains the role that Textile Exchange's standards play in connecting small producers to the global supply chain. Also covered: The realities and rewards of mohair farming in South Africa - Frances VH reveals the biggest challenge facing her, and farmers the world over. Why Textile Exchange is introducing a unified Materials Matter Standard and how will this affect Frances and her fellow tier four producers? Relevant Articles from Eco Textile News Textile Exchange unveils unified standard Textile Exchange reveals five year strategy Links to other organisations Frances Van Hasselt's Textile Company Textile Exchange How to subscribe https://www.ecotextile.com/membership-account/membership-levels/ Following Ecotextile Talks Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.
S6 · E10
Jul 25, 2025 · 10 min
'Fossil fuels subsidies and polyester taxation,' with Shivam Gusain
While on his travels in Indonesia, our correspondent Shivam Gusain speaks to Philip Berman about his latest Ecotextile News article on decarbonising the textile industry, fossil fuel subsidies, and polyester taxation. Speaking within the current context of the volatile tariff war between the US and supply chain countries like China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh, Shivam advocates for fiscal approaches that reduce the cost of sustainable alternatives rather than excessive taxation. He emphasises the interdependence of fossil fuels and global stability, saying that removing subsidies and applying levies are deeply political acts. The full article "Carbon taxes will halt textile sector progress" features in our August 2025 print edition – out today – and is available here on our digital platform for premium members. You can read the full story in print or online, while at the same time supporting the work that we do to improve the environmental and social profile of our industry, by becoming a member of our global community. How to subscribe https://www.ecotextile.com/membership-account/membership-levels/ Following Ecotextile Talks Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.
S6 · E9
Jun 27, 2025 · 11 min
Data: the 'daddy' of all issues at this week's ZDHC event in Amsterdam
Fresh off a flight from the ZDHC Impact Day in The Netherlands, John Mowbray gives a quick overview of the talking points at this week's Amsterdam event to Philip Berman for a short 'from our own correspondent' edition of Ecotextile Talks. Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts and radio shows by following us on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music. Also, take a look at our complete podcast archive.
S6 · E8
Jun 3, 2025 · 34 min
Chemical Textile Recycling Won't Help Save Fashion, Until We Learn to Fail Better
In this episode of Ecotextile Talks our host, Philip Berman, is joined by Shivam Gusain a former innovation analyst at Fashion For Good, and now an independent consultant and writer. The conversation was inspired by his recent substack post entitled: 'Crash Testing the Circular Economy.' in which he argues that we should investe in 'failure', not just success, to reveal the real boundaries of textile-to-textile recycling. Drawing on his experience across industry, engineering, and business, Shivam discusses with Philip what we can learn from other industries, and challenges us to reconsider where our money, attention, and optimism are best spent. Listen in as Shivam asks some tough questions every apparel and textile industry professional should be considering. How to Listen & Subscribe Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts. Previous stories on the topic Renewcell troubles: https://www.ecotextile.com/2024032648446/news/features/renewcell-when-risk-doesn-t-equal-reward/ For more news and analysis, visit our website at ecotextile.com. Shivam's substack Contact & Feedback For questions, feedback, or to suggest a guest, email philip@larchmontfilms.com
S6 · E7
Apr 24, 2025 · 34 min
Beyond The Spin - What Circular Fashion Gets Wrong (And What We're Missing)
In this episode host Philip Berman sits down with Dr Talia Hussain whose recent academic paper on circular fashion sparked lively debate across the industry. Dr Hussain, a PhD in design innovation and MBA, is known for her critical analysis on the mainstream circular fashion narrative. Together, they take a deep dive into the promises—and potential pitfalls—of circularity in the textile sector, with a particular focus on the influential 2017 Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) and its A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion's future report. Key Topics Discussed The EMF's $460 Billion Claim Dr Hussain questions the widely cited figure from the EMF report, its assumptions and real-world implications for industry revenues and the potential size of the reuse sector. She explains why she thinks greater scrutiny is needed when using such reports to drive regulation, and discusses what gets overlooked when focusing solely on circular models. Further Reading & Resources Dr Talia Hussain's academic paper: The Emperor's old clothes: a critical review of circular fashion in gray literature The Ellen MacArthur Foundations 2017 Report: A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion's future How to Listen & Subscribe Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts. For more news and analysis, visit our website at ecotextile.com. Contact & Feedback For questions, feedback, or to suggest a guest, email philip@larchmontfilms.com F9lNQYxZAGUkFJRwZZ9r
S6 · E6
Mar 19, 2025 · 37 min
Beyond the Report: unpacking Lenzing's sustainability journey
In light of their 2024 Annual and Sustainability Report, Philip Berman catches up with Krishna Manda, Lenzing's VP corporate sustainability, and Thomas Matiz, Lenzing's global product sustainability lead, to chat about Lenzing's GHG emissions reporting, what is needed to achieve net-zero, and how Lenzing supports its customers and partners in achieving its climate goals. If you want to trace Lenzing's sustainability journey via Ecotextile Talks - do please check out our previous episodes featuring Lenzing guests: 2023 Viscose Voyages - uncovering Lenzing's plans in Indonesia Inside the minds of sustainable shoppers 2022 How Timberland and Lenzing tackled traceability How Lenzing has its sights set on a zero carbon target 2021 Why Lenzing is big on biodegradability 2020 Textile fibre traceability - is blockchain the answer? Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music or have a look around our complete podcast archive here.
S6 · E5
Mar 17, 2025 · 23 min
California Dreamin' about new fashion laws with Maxine Bédat
Host Philip Berman talks to Maxine Bedat, Executive Director at New Standard Institute, the official sponsor of the Fashion Environmental Accountability Act, a new bill introduced into the California State Assembly at the start of February 2025 which, if enacted, would become the first law in the country to require brands to engage in "environmental due diligence" concerning their products and supply chains. This Californian Bill is essentially the same as the 'New York Fashion Act' which was introduced into the New York State legislature in 2022 - though it's not yet law - and which is also backed by Maxine, The New Standard Institute and a broad coalition of industry folk including influential names such as, Rothys, Everlane, Reformation, Eileen Fisher, Patagoina, ThredUp, Circ, Vestiaire Collective, Stella McCartney, Ganni, Faherty, Cotopaxi, NRDC, Sierra Club, Canopy, Trove, EVRNU, American Academy of Pediatrics. Full list at thefashionact.org Maxine talks about both bills, their purpose, what stage they have reached in the legislative process. what it's like trying to push through groundbreaking legislation in two states on opposite sides of the US, simultaneously, whether her work has become harder with President Trump in the White House, and how she manages to build broad support with politicians of all persuasions. Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music or have a look around our complete podcast archive here.
S6 · E4
Mar 11, 2025 · 30 min
What's the way to Net Zero? With the Apparel Impact Institute
What's the best way to Net Zero? In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman explores the pathway to net zero in the textile industry with Pauline Op de Beeck, Climate Portfolio Director at the Apparel Impact Institute, and wet processing expert and Ecotextile News contributor Phil Patterson They discuss the newly released: "Low Carbon Thermal Energy Roadmap" which provides guidance on how the textile industry can reach net zero by 2040, with a particular focus on electrification and renewable energy adoption in major textile manufacturing countries. Key Topics Discussed > The thermal energy challenge in textile manufacturing, where 80% of energy consumption is thermal energy primarily generated by burning fossil fuels >The importance of electrification as the ultimate path to net zero, with proper timing being crucial >Analysis of five key textile producing countries: China, India, Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Indonesia >Forecasting when facilities should transition to electric technologies based on renewable energy availability and cost >The dangers of premature electrification before renewable energy is sufficiently available >The new industry benchmarking tool being developed to help brands and manufacturers track energy uses and emissions. More details of the Apparel Impact Institute's Climate Solutions Portfolio grant applications open until March 31, 2025

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