Chemist Confessions

Chemist Confessions Inc.

Skincare chemists Gloria & Victoria’s weekly conversation on all things skincare science.
The podcast covers notable skincare news, decoding outrageous claims, demystifying the overwhelming product landscapes, and answering your burning skincare questions. Tune in if you might need help building a skincare routine, finding a serum that’ll ACTUALLY deliver, or just want to have a few laughs on some of the crazy things you see in skincare.

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100 episodes
Updated Friday
Explicit

Episodes100

Newest first

Jul 1, 2024 · 34 min
#103: Should You Be Using the Azelaic Acid Derivative Instead?
Because of the limitations of azelaic acid, it only makes sense that azelaic acid derviative, potassium azeloyl diglycinate is on the rise! We dive into whether or not this is a good replacement for azelaic acid, what are its actual benefits, and how to use PAD in your skincare routine!
Jun 17, 2024 · 27 min
#102: Does 10% Azelaic Acid Do Anything for Skin?
The chemists don’t talk about this ingredient as much as they probably should but azelaic acid has a solid amount of data behind it…at the prescription level 15-20% concentration. Naturally, you have to wonder if the 10% azelaic acid products you can purchase as a cosmetic would actually do anything for skin? They dissect the benefits of azelaic acid, discuss the formulation challenges behind this active, and ultimately how they would use a 10% azelaic acid product in their routine.
Jun 10, 2024 · 42 min
#101: Do You Need an Oil Cleanser to Remove Sunscreen? A Sunscreen Update!
The chemists are gearing up for their 30 for 30 sunscreen challenge test! So naturally this is a great time to check up on some of the latest studies on sunscreens. We cover a large survey study on people’s sunscreen application habits (spoiler alert: it’s not great), an oil based vs water based cleanser study on sunscreen removal, a new J&J SPF50 vs SPF100 study, and an update on the ongoing studies on sunscreen’s impact on coral reef.
Jun 3, 2024 · 42 min
#100: The 100th Celebration! Chemists' (true) Confessions
We’ve reached the 100th Episode! This week we’re going down memory lane ranking our top 5 podcast moments and our favorite skincare science. We also decide to reveal some true chemist “confessions”. We share what popular ingredients we might not be fully on board with and even what skincare steps we forget. Time for some fun!
May 27, 2024 · 32 min
#99: Plant Stuff That Should Be On Your Radar
We’re back in the realm of plant extracts in skincare! This is a realm where real clinical data is quite sparse. So even simple questions like “does this extract work?” can be difficult to answer. In this episode, we discuss 3 plant ingredients with just enough interesting testing data for us to say “this is worth trying”.
May 13, 2024 · 29 min
#98: Does Petrolatum Clog Pores
Journeying into the more controversial ingredients, we first have to talk about petrolatum. One common question that we haven’t answered yet is, “Will petrolatum clog my pores?” There’s a surprising amount of data to discuss on this subject and after, we share best practices on using petrolatum in your skincare routine.
May 6, 2024 · 32 min
#97: How Does Gluconolactone Compare to AHAs?
Taking a break from plant stuff and antioxidants, let’s talk about the newer exfoliator on the block, gluconolactone. Uniquely, gluconolactone has been tied to many skin benefits, being called hydrating, brightening, exfoliating, to maybe even…acne fighting? Ultimately we dissect the data to discuss what exactly gluconolactone does for skin and how it compares to the classic AHAs. Tune in to learn if gluconolactone deserves a place in your routine and how to best shop for this category!
Apr 29, 2024 · 33 min
#96: What Actives Can You Layer With Vitamin C?
In this episode, we’re continuing our Vitamin C series and are focusing on actives layering. Most of the questions we get are on whether or not you can layer certain actives with the very fussy ascorbic acid. We first review guidelines on the concept of layering, go through any evidence on ascorbic acid layering combinations, and finally discuss which pairings you should and shouldn’t worry about.
Apr 22, 2024 · 32 min
#95: How Good is Vitamin C For Hyperpigmentation Really?
We’ve dedicated many episodes to Vitamin C, but there’s still more to cover! Recently, there have been a lot of Vitamin C launches and they are specifically for tackling hyperpigmentation. What makes this arena slightly confusing is that many of these products use Vitamin C derivatives. But, how helpful is Vitamin C in helping to tackle this very stubborn skin concern? And which Vitamin C molecule is best? We discuss all this and more. It’s time to go down the rabbit hole again!
Apr 15, 2024 · 41 min
#94: Is Resveratrol Better Than Vitamin C?
We’ve encountered many skincare users who have discovered that the Vitamin C realm is just not their cup of tea and neither is it for their skin. Enter resveratrol! We discuss what resveratrol is, its antioxidant capabilities, and why despite the amount of data, we consider this a solid option as a non-Vitamin C antioxidant replacement. You’ve been warned, we get nerdy here, but lets go down the rabbit hole shall we?
Apr 8, 2024 · 32 min
#93: What Benefits Does Kojic Acid Have For Skin?
There’s a lot of rice-based ingredients and rice-adjacent ingredients in skincare. They can span from functional ingredients such as waxes and thickeners to exotic actives like the very famous Pitera. Amongst all of these ingredients, there’s one isolated active compound that we believe deserves some attention and that is kojic acid. This ingredient is a byproduct of the sake fermentation process and happens to have some solid data as a hyperpigmentation-fighting active. So let’s dive in!
Apr 1, 2024 · 28 min
#92: What Does Centella Asiatica Actually Do For Skin?
Centella Asiatica (aka cica) has continued to reign as a trendy plant-based active. For good reason! With origins as a wound healing ingredient, the research behind centella asiatica as a skincare ingredient has really grown. We go through the research update and talk about its benefits as a skin soother and possible anti-aging ingredient. Finally, we walk through how to shop for centella asiatica and ultimately how to hunt for the good stuff: madecassoside & asiaticoside.
Mar 25, 2024 · 30 min
#91: If There's Glycolic & Lactic Acid, Why Should We Use Mandelic Acid?
In the world of AHAs, mandelic acid feels like that forgotten child. We always talk about the golden child, glycolic acid, as well as the more gentle exfoliator, lactic acid. So when would a person need mandelic acid in their life? We go through the data and discuss who it’s good for, how much you should be using, and how to shop for this unique AHA.
Mar 18, 2024 · 37 min
#90: Why is Ginseng in Skincare?
Ginseng is definitely one of those alluring, almost magical ingredients that not only gets touted as a cure-all but almost as a skin cure-all as well. This root has been linked to a wide array of skincare benefits such as being an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging. But is there any merit to these claims? We discuss the science and just how helpful ginseng can be to your skincare routine.
Mar 11, 2024 · 38 min
#89: Can You Have Too Much Niacinamide?
Niacinamide is EVERYWHERE in the skincare world, but for good reasons. It’s a jack-of-all-trades type of molecule that has actual clinical evidence that ranges from improving skin barrier function, reducing sebum production, to brightening hyperpigmentation. But in recent years products now have way more niacinamide than ever before. So let's review some of niacinamide’s most famous clinical tests and answer the question “is there such thing as too much niacinamide?”
Mar 4, 2024 · 25 min
#88: Can Urea Replace Your AHAs?
Urea has surprisingly been creeping up the ranks in skincare ingredient awareness. This oldie but a goodie has actually been looked at for some time and been compared to some of the greats like glycerin. Uniquely, urea at lower percentages serves as a hydration ingredient but at higher concentrations acts as a keratolytic similar to AHAs. So you have to wonder, can urea replace our AHAs?
Feb 24, 2024 · 33 min
#87: Is Glycerin the BEST humectant hydrator out there?
Glycerin is probably one of the first ingredients that chemists learn to work with in formulation. In fact, we happen to call this the Frank’s Red Hot of skincare because the industry really puts that sh** in everything! But despite its economical, functional status, this ingredient has really risen in the ranks in terms of trendy ingredients! In this episode, we review glycerin’s benefits and discuss whether or not glycerin deserves the title of best hydrating ingredient in skincare.
Feb 20, 2024 · 31 min
#86: Are Ceramides Only For Compromised Skin Barriers?
It’s great to see awareness grow around maintaining skin barrier health. In caring for your skin barrier, ceramides would probably be the first ingredient that would be suggested. However, there are a lot of questions on who and what skin types should be using ceramides. Based on the data, are ceramides only good for those with compromised skin barriers? We dive into the research to see what the data says and how to use ceramide in your routine for your skin scenario!
Feb 12, 2024 · 30 min
#85: Is Hyaluronic Acid a MUST in Your Skincare Routine?
Hyaluronic Acid has consistently been a trendy ingredient in skincare for better or worse. There’s so much confusion with this ingredient because it’s been touted as a miracle anti-aging ingredient but also gets flagged as a potential irritant that may even cause skin dehydration. Not to fear! In this episode, we go through the science, and talk about when and how to incorporate hyaluronic acid in your routine.
Feb 5, 2024 · 24 min
#84: Is Bakuchiol Better Than Retinol?
Bakuchiol was put on the map as soon as results came out that bakuchiol seemingly performed on par with retinol in treating anti-aging concerns. But does this hold true? The chemists’ review what bakuchiol even is, the actual study that made this ingredient famous, and discuss who would benefit from using this ingredient! Let’s talk babchi stuff!

Chemist Confessions

#103: Should You Be Using the Azelaic Acid Derivative Instead?

#102: Does 10% Azelaic Acid Do Anything for Skin?

#101: Do You Need an Oil Cleanser to Remove Sunscreen? A Sunscreen Update!

#100: The 100th Celebration! Chemists' (true) Confessions

#99: Plant Stuff That Should Be On Your Radar

#98: Does Petrolatum Clog Pores

#97: How Does Gluconolactone Compare to AHAs?

#96: What Actives Can You Layer With Vitamin C?

#95: How Good is Vitamin C For Hyperpigmentation Really?

#94: Is Resveratrol Better Than Vitamin C?

#93: What Benefits Does Kojic Acid Have For Skin?

#92: What Does Centella Asiatica Actually Do For Skin?

#91: If There's Glycolic & Lactic Acid, Why Should We Use Mandelic Acid?

#90: Why is Ginseng in Skincare?

#89: Can You Have Too Much Niacinamide?

#88: Can Urea Replace Your AHAs?

#87: Is Glycerin the BEST humectant hydrator out there?

#86: Are Ceramides Only For Compromised Skin Barriers?

#85: Is Hyaluronic Acid a MUST in Your Skincare Routine?

#84: Is Bakuchiol Better Than Retinol?