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Cant Not

cant not

In conversation with Vintage Collectors and Independent Fashion minds from all over the world. Exploring design, consumption, culture and the unique journeys of small business in the big world.
Full episodes on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast and access to Editing the Doom Scroll Newsletter.
Follow @cant__not on Instagram
Get cant not map, a map of vintage stores all over the world pre pinned on your maps: www.cantnotshop.com

  • 20 episodes
  • Updated Friday

Episodes20

  • Friday · 24 min

    115. *Preview* Edward Jones, Corsetier, Couturier & Collector (Full Episode on Patreon & Substack)

    In conversation with Edward Jones, of @edwardjonesatelier on how his early fascination with the understructures of victorian dress, the diaries of lady's maids and the hidden details and soft techniques of old haute couture sewing set him on his journey to becoming a couturier. Edward gets into the parts of couture sewing people may not realise and how hard it is to translate couture pieces in the digital age. We speak about what may be lost if this way of making isn’t up kept and the danger that puts couture fabric houses in. We get into his antique corset collection and his interest in preserving the corset history of the wartime and post war era. Other topics in our conversation include more on his collecting, 80s Emanuel Ungaro, his hat collection, the hats by the legendary milliner Madame Paulette, the punctuation mark of a Stephen Jones hat, whats next for the Edward Jones Atelier and so much more <3 Full episode on Patreon and Substack both subscriptions get you ad free full episodes and access to my monthly editing the doom scroll newsletter <3 Get access to cant not map which pre pins vintage stores all over the world to your maps >> www.cantnotshop.com

  • July 18 · 2 min

    114. *Preview* Allison's Archive, Fearless and Fun (Full Episode on Patreon Only)

    In conversation with Allison Dickerman, founder of NYC based vintage store Allison's Archive on leaving her PR job to start her own business, the intuition and feeling that goes into her curation, admiring designers who weren’t afraid to have fun, missing the times when designers didn't try to appeal to everyone, Dsquared FW 2003, the constant surprises in sourcing, Vintage going from niche to mainstream, how archives have become cultural currency, the skate moss heel and so much more <3

  • July 2 · 17 min

    113. *Preview* Antoni & Alison, A Good Idea (Full Episode on Patreon)

    In conversation with Antoni Burakowski, of Antoni and Alison on behalf of both Antoni and Alison! Antoni paints a vivid picture of the early 1980s in London, jumble sales on Brick Lane, performances by Divine, happy hour at Peppermint Park, always looking your best and going to Saint Martins College of Art — where him and Alison first met. We get into what brought them together, what led to their first collection, their principles, their design techniques, the slogan tees, being their own PR, pioneering digital printing on garments, making the perfect handbag, having a show about all the things they didn’t like, Alison wanting less, Antoni wanting more, what has kept their friendship and business partnership alive over 30 years, and so much more!

  • June 22 · 5 min

    112. *Preview* Spiral Sense, A Pocket of Menswear (Full Episode on Patreon Only)

    In conversation with James of menswear archive Spiral Sense on how he entered the space and is continuing to make it a career, pivotal moments in menswear, the experimental cuts and innovative materials of the 1999 collections, Roberto Manichetti and his underrated designs for Burberry from 1998 to 2001, Mandarina Duck and their in-house fabrics, design elements he gets excited about, current designers he is looking at, thoughts on the current state of fashion and so much more <3

  • June 4 · 51 min

    111. Matteo Azzolini, Fashion's Obsession with the Archives

    In conversation with Matteo Azzolini writer and creator of the fashion substack Why You Should Care, a weekly newsletter investigating key cultural shifts and trends across luxury, fashion, lifestyle, and pop culture. In this Episode we dive deeper into a topic Matteo has previously explored -- Fashion's obsession with the archives. We get into the role of nostalgia in an unstable world, the ultimate luxury is what you can not buy, how archives are used as borrowed storytelling, what this means for emerging designers, the shift of creation to curation, the currency of taste, vintage used in film and so much more <3

  • May 22 · 4 min

    110. Kernemilk, Shifting the System for Small Brands (Preview, Full Episode on Patreon)

    Episode 110 In conversation with Marie Mark, founder of Kernemilk, an independent fashion label from Copenhagen, Denmark. We get into why moving closer to customers and further away from big shows and productions is essential moving forward, the biggest challenges operating a small independent fashion label, what she learned from her first fashion show and why that goal has changed over time, the steps Kernemilk takes to produce more thoughtfully, how manufacturers are not built for smaller brands with smaller orders, the influence of the internet, where she looks for inspiration, whats next and so much more <3 Listen to the Full Episode on Patreon Ad Free. For $3.00 you get access to all 110 episodes of Cant Not Podcast and the Famous monthly Editing the Doom Scroll Shopping Newsletter featuring 100 pieces from Independent Brands and Vintage Shops around the world. Join the fun! www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast

  • May 7 · 5 min

    109. Igen Vintage, Beyond the Archive (Preview, Full Episode on Patreon)

    In conversation with Kasia of Warsaw, Poland based vintage shop Igen Vintage. We get into how people in Warsaw are dressing and how their style and shopping patterns have changed over the years. How styling has become a key tool to selling a product and the world they are building. Igen's fashion campaigns and what it means for vintage stores to be utilising traditional forms of fashion advertising. The importance of Pop-ups. Her current obsession with 2010s vintage and the designers resonating for her from that era. Underrated designers like Sarah Pacini, Paola Frani and Amaya Arzuaga. Style tips for the summer, we play a game and so much more! You can listen to the full episode on Patreon and gain accesss to all episodes and Editing the Doom Scroll Newsletter (a shopable newsletter of 80 pieces from different independent designers and vintage sellers): www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast *I also have a vintage map with vintage stores pre-pinned on your maps all over the world - we have done the hard work and research for you! Get your access www.cantnotshop.com *

  • April 23 · 10 min

    108. Cafe Forgot, Forever (Preview, Full Episode on Patreon Only)

    Episode 108. In conversation with Vita Haas and Lucy Weisner of NYC's beloved Cafe Forgot, an independent experimental multi brand retailer located in the Lower East Side. We get into the early days before the store and how their concept came about, collaborating and showcasing their friends work, the fun stores that no longer exist in the city, the lessons that came from operating as a pop up shop, what it was like to finally have a permanent location, using intuition to curate their store, evolving with the designers they carry, what's needed for a self sustaining business, how important independent retail is for emerging designers, what they have learned from the designers they work with, how tough it is to be an indie retailer and an indie designer in NYC, is the retail landscape changing? And so much more <3 Full Episode is on my Patreon www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast For $3 a month Patreon's get access to all episodes and monthly Editing the Doom Scroll Newsletter, a curation of over 80 pieces of vintage and independent designer pieces. Follow @cant__not on instagram <3

  • April 8 · 10 min

    107. *PREVIEW* Aralda Vintage, Behind the Archives (Full Episode on Patreon Only))

    In conversation with Brynn Jones Saban, founder of Los Angeles based vintage store Aralda Vintage. We get into the evolution of Aralda and how she transformed it from a vintage store to a home for designer archives that stylists, celebrities and vintage lovers flock to. How she started her business and what she's learned from it. Her love for Paco Rabanne, Alexander McQueen, and John Galliano. What it means to be in a peak celeb wearing archival vintage moment. Her trend predictions within vintage collecting. New designers she's excited about -- and so much more! To listen to the full episode head to my ⁠Patreon⁠ where you can listen to all episodes ad free and gain access to Editing the Dooms Scroll Monthly Newsletter featuring over 80 pieces of vintage and independent designer that are available to shop. ⁠www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast

  • April 8 · 10 min

    106. *PREVIEW* Anna Filzmoser, The Other MA Show (Full Episode on Patreon Only)

    In conversation with CSM graduate designer Anna Filzmoser on the Other MA Fashion Show and why they did it, Anna's collection and unique creative process, upcycling and how she considers materials, thoughts on the current state of fashion and how that influences her, the importance of social media to young designers, the biggest takeaway studying at Central Saint Martins, hopes for the future of fashion and so much more <3 To listen to the full episode head to my Patreon where you can listen to all episodes ad free and gain access to Editing the Dooms Scroll Monthly Newsletter featuring over 80 pieces of vintage and independent designer that are available to shop. www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast

  • March 17 · 19 min

    105. *PREVIEW* Merci C'est Vintage, Intentional Shopping (Full Episode on Patreon Only)

    In conversation with Mariana Vergara of Merci C’est Vintage on bringing back shopping with intention, spotlighting artisan makers and heritage, being under stimulated by the current retail landscape, the multiple universes of Merci C’est Vintage, how Le Pop Up started, discovering artisans and giving them a new platform, human connection and storytelling, why there’s a resurgence in true vintage, stepping away from algorithmic shopping, discovering pieces because of their beauty — not their branding, minaudière bags, going back to bespoke, the way women used to shop and so much more <3 Listen to the full episode on Patreon www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast The Patreon is £3.00 a month, which also gives you access to Editing the Doom Scroll Newsletter, a monthly curation of the best vintage and independent designers online, nothing over £500. Join the fun!

  • February 19 · 36 min

    104. American Love Story & the Fan Fiction of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy

    In conversation with the woman behind the Two Mrs on Instagram and Substack which celebrates the eternal Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. We get into the internet's fascination with Carolyn, her mystique and the public's projections, debunking theories about the style icon, the Cartier curse, the first 3 episodes of American Love Story -- what they got wrong and what they got right, how the niche internet of CBK admirers saved the show's costume's & so much more! This is a free episode, to listen to more full podcast episodes subscribe on Patreon for £3 and get access to all episodes, cant not map & editing the doom scroll newsletter. Follow @cant__not on instagram <3

  • February 4 · 10 min

    103. *TEASER* Rummage Stretch, Delulu Legging (FULL EPISODE ON PATREON ONLY)

    In conversation with Isabella Oday of Rummage Stretch on 2016 — the year athleisure peaked and the culture around being healthy, the uprise of wellness influencers and yoga leggings on the Upper East Side, the Kardashian effect, our modest pre 2015 bums, unrealistic lifestyle expectations promoted to us online, the yoga retreat that led to Rummage Stretch, Liana Staenstein’s brilliant trend predicting, a more relaxed approach to fitness, Iconic tennis dresses, ugly sneakers, fabric composition, her Gumi tank collab, predictions for the future of activewear and so much more <3 Full Episode, access to all episodes, Editing the Doom Scroll Newsletter and Cant Not Map all on Patreon: www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast IG: instagram.com/cant__not <3

  • January 22 · 5 min

    102. *TEASER* The Norah Store, Leading the Shift to Slow Retail (FULL EPISODE ON PATREON ONLY)

    We are back and in conversation with the lovely Elizabeth Morgan of independent -- slow fashion, Manchester (& online) based retailer The Norah Store. We get into how creating something that her and her best friends could shop in real life became a reality, the male dominated Manchester shopping scene and the importance of having both a store and community there for women, the curation and criteria behind the independent designers she stocks, how slow fashion looks different for different designers, maintaining an accessible price point, how much clothes should actually cost, not being a faceless organisation and the importance of trust, the joys of working with smaller designers, the future of independent retail & so much more <3 Listen to the full episode and get access to all episodes, Editing the Doom Scroll & Cant Not Map on Patreon.

  • Dec 4, 2025 · 30 min

    101. I LOVE LA - Costume Designer Christina Flannery

    In conversation with Costume Designer Christina Flannery on her most recent work for the TV series I love LA and the film Christy, her experience with vintage clothing and the path that led her to designing, coverings early 80s to 2010s and the exact replicas and vintage pieces used in Christy, I Love LA and referencing LA, the cultural significance of Alani's Tabi ballet flat moment, how much of Rachel Sennott's personal style is in Maia's wardrobe, the meta feeling of designing costumes for a stylist, local vintage stores she pulled from, the importance of platforming independent designers, advice for people pursuing a dream and so much more <3

  • Nov 27, 2025 · 7 min

    100. *TEASER* Rita Melssen, Creative Consultant to Pop Legend & the Studio of Art Archive and Design (FULL EPISODE ON PATREON)

    Episode 100! Honored to celebrate 100 epsidodes - in conversation with creative consultant and stylist Rita Melssen (@saint_____rita) on the journey that led her to working for Pop Icon - Madonna, how moving to New York at 17 brought on a hard work ethic and open mind, deep research and her approach to dressing a legend, being intuitive and the intimate relationship of working with artists, diving into the archives, her personal collection and the designers that interest her, travel and traditional garments, favourite cities and vintage stores, why she started the Studio of Art Archive and Design (@saad.nyc) and her vision for its evolution, the current state of fashion, what’s next and so much more <3 Listen to the full episode on Patreon www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast Follow @saad.nyc Follow @cant__not

  • Nov 10, 2025 · 5 min

    99. *TEASER* Comme Please! (Full Episode on Patreon Only)

    In conversation with Stephanie Cahyadi of @comme.please, a vintage shop with a focus on Comme Des Garcons pieces based in Singapore. We dive into Rei Kawakubo’s unconventional entry into fashion and how this later influenced the abstract creative process she evolved with her design team. We discuss some of her design philosophies and how she revolutionised our perspectives of fashion, advertising and stores. As a a collector of Comme herself, Stephanie shares her appreciation for the designer, favourite pieces and so much more <3 Listen to the full episode and gain access to editing the doom scroll newsletter and Cant Not Map on Patreon: www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast

  • Oct 23, 2025 · 11 min

    98. *TEASER* Timeless Vixen, the Archive of Hollywood (FULL EPISODE ON PATREON ONLY)

    In conversation with Lauren Lepire of Timeless Vixen on how growing up in LA influenced her, joining a girl ska band when she was 16 and the 60s fashion subculture attached to it, selling true 50s and 60s pieces from her dorm room on Ebay, Courtney Love as her first celebrity client and the full circle moment of the babydoll dress, the intricacies of Couture pieces, Museum worthy finds, the preserved closets of LA, her spark with Ossie Clarke and his design legacy, the impact of having her pieces featured in film and tv, her love for McQueen and Galliano, the American Couturiers of old Hollywood and so much more <3 Listen to the full episode on www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast

  • Oct 10, 2025 · 22 min

    97. *TEASER* Milan & Paris SS26 Fashion Week Review with Hannah Rose-Tindle (FULL EPISODE ON PATREON)

    I am joined by Fashion Editor and Writer Hannah Rose Tindle to discuss the Milan and Paris SS26 Season. This fashion month felt like a lot; a lot of designer debuts, a lot of pressure and a lot of opinions! While Hannah and I felt overwhelmed by the whole thing, we did our best to try and understand where that pressure came from, who is a fashion critic in 2025, the state of luxury fashion, is the fashion ‘gimmick’ era over, Hedi Slimane's Mattheiu Blazy shade, why there are so many designer debuts and what’s at stake. And then we get into the shows. Not all but, a lot! Enjoy <3 Full episode on patreon: www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast

  • Sep 23, 2025 · 1 hr 22 min

    96. New York & London Fashion Week Review with Paige Rubin

    Free Episode covering the latest New York and London Fashion weeks with the delightfully perceptive @paigerubin of @taste____studio 🤎 Before we deep dive our favourite shows, @theprophetpizza ‘s (Rachel Tashjian) New York Post article When did New York Fashion Week Get So Boring? tempted us to make sense of how NYFW may have lost its lustre as we discuss the commercialisation of brands, the memorable yet short lived Fashion’s Night Out and some of the designers who were showing 25 years ago. We also get into how over referenced vintage has become on all scales of fashion, the need for designers to look forward and a few more hot topics! While we couldn’t cover everything we do our best to make it through a lot. There is an hour of us covering the following shows below (starting at 35:00 minutes in), the themes we have noticed so far and what we expect we will keep seeing for 2026 ✨ Enjoy <3 Sandy Liang Campillo Anna Sui Ashley Williams Tanner Fletcher Aaron Esh Simone Rocha Lii Grace Ling Chopova Lowena Johana Parv Tove Marques Almeida Eckhaus Latta