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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

#130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send

June 9 · 57 min · 109.8 MB
0:00-57:12

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Cameron Hörst recently completed the hardest route of his climbing career: Big Bone (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah's massive Fynn Cave.

What makes his first ascent especially compelling isn't just the grade—it's the journey. Big Bone was a project that demanded years of training, 60+ working goes and redpoint attempts, countless setbacks, and a level of patience few climbers ever develop.

In this episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, Cameron unpacks the entire process. We dive into the physical, mental, and tactical challenges of working a multi-year project, the breakthroughs that finally moved the needle, and the lessons any climber can apply to their own long-term goals—whether you're projecting 5.10 or 5.15.

One of the most fascinating takeaways is that the breakthrough wasn't a sudden gain in finger strength or power. Instead, it came from years of accumulated training adaptations, comprehensive energy system development, improved recovery, refined tactics, and learning when not to climb. Cameron shares how he finally broke through a plateau that had stalled his progress for multiple seasons.

RUNDOWN

2:00 – What Does It Feel Like to Send a Multi-Year Project?

5:00 – Inside Utah's Incredible Fin Cave

7:00 – Anatomy of the "Big Bone" Project

9:50 – Why the Route is So Difficult

12:00 – Cameron's Three-Year Journey on the Route

13:50 – Breaking Through a Plateau

16:40 – Training Lessons from Big Bone

18:00 – Recovery: The Secret Weapon

21:00 – Sending on the Second Try

24:10 - Energy System Training and the benefits of becoming more fat adapted

26:00 – Mental Growth and Performance Psychology

28:30 - Discovery of Fin Cave

31:30 – The Evolution of "Bone Tomahawk" and "Big Bone"

32:00 – Friendship and Mentorship with Joe Kinder

34:20 – Balancing University, Life, and Elite Climbing

40:00 – The Importance of Partners and Community

44:00 - Debating 5.15a versus 5.15b -- how to grade a hard FA?

47:30 - Ultimately, the grade isn't important -- the journey is what counts!

48:10 – Coaching, Exercise Science, and Helping Others

49:28 – What's Next?

51:05 – Eric's summarizes 8 Key Tips and Takeaways from this interview.

54:30 - Sponsor Discount:

56:00 -⭐ Enjoy the podcast?

  • Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner!

56:40 - Hörst Out!

Podcast Sponsors

Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!

European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com.

Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx

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Music by Misty Murphy

Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.